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Posted by Al A. on February 13, 2008, 8:49 pm
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Hi all,
Here is the application:
The steel backstop at our local shooting club's indoor range is an
"elevator" style trap. Over the years the areas right behind where the
targets hang seem "erode". The theory is that the metal work hardens
from the repeated impacts and then bits of metal start to chip out,
causing roughness and pits that then interferes the proper operation of
the trap. This happens over the course of years, and in the past, we
have ground out the rough spots and welded over the area, followed by
grinding the welds flat and smooth again. Works great.
We now need to do a few areas again, and the question has come up as
to what type of rod to use. I'm not sure what was used last time, the
guy who did it is no around to ask. I'm pretty sure it was something
garden variety like 6011 or something similar, but some have suggested
using a "hardfacing" type rod for greater longevity. (the guy who
suggested that faces a lot of 'dozer blades and the like) What do some
of the experts here suggest? Any ideas?
Other info:
-Backstop plates are a bit less than 3/4" thick, were once part of a
backstop in an old National Guard barricks. No idea of the precise
composition.
-"Pits" in the plates are mostly 1/16" or less deep.
-Used for lead handgun shooting only and .22 rifle. No jacketed stuff, etc.
-We have access to fairly serious welder and an experienced man to use it.
-just looking for some informed opinions, so that we can try to make an
(at least slightly) educated decision.
Thanks!
-AL
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Posted by flash on February 13, 2008, 9:53 pm
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While at first glance, hardfacing seems like a good idea, it might be worth
considering that the plate needs a bit of resilience, as the bullets
impacting it expend an awful lot of inertia in a small spot, and some "give"
or flex might be in order, too. This might depend on exactly the composition
of the substrate.
I've never shot at this type of backstop. All the ones I've had experience
with (that were NOT 1" armor plate) had smaller plates attached, in a manner
that they gave slightly and absorbed the impact, and then deflected the
bullet to the main plate, which, in turn, deflected it into the sand-trap.
Flash
> Hi all,
> Here is the application:
> The steel backstop at our local shooting club's indoor range is an
> "elevator" style trap. Over the years the areas right behind where the
> targets hang seem "erode". The theory is that the metal work hardens from
> the repeated impacts and then bits of metal start to chip out, causing
> roughness and pits that then interferes the proper operation of the trap.
> This happens over the course of years, and in the past, we have ground out
> the rough spots and welded over the area, followed by grinding the welds
> flat and smooth again. Works great.
>
> We now need to do a few areas again, and the question has come up as to
> what type of rod to use. I'm not sure what was used last time, the guy who
> did it is no around to ask. I'm pretty sure it was something garden
> variety like 6011 or something similar, but some have suggested using a
> "hardfacing" type rod for greater longevity. (the guy who suggested that
> faces a lot of 'dozer blades and the like) What do some of the experts
> here suggest? Any ideas?
>
> Other info:
> -Backstop plates are a bit less than 3/4" thick, were once part of a
> backstop in an old National Guard barricks. No idea of the precise
> composition.
> -"Pits" in the plates are mostly 1/16" or less deep.
> -Used for lead handgun shooting only and .22 rifle. No jacketed stuff,
> etc.
> -We have access to fairly serious welder and an experienced man to use it.
>
> -just looking for some informed opinions, so that we can try to make an
> (at least slightly) educated decision.
>
> Thanks!
> -AL
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Posted by Dan on February 13, 2008, 10:00 pm
Please log in for more thread options What is an "Elevator style" trap?
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Posted by Al A. on February 16, 2008, 2:03 pm
Please log in for more thread options Dan wrote:
> What is an "Elevator style" trap?
Dan,
Sorry for the delay in my reply. To answer your question:
On the most common style trap, I'm sure you know, the backstop plates
are at a 45 degree angle to the ground, with the "floor end" of the
plates furthest from the firing point. That way the bullets are
deflected towards the floor, and are generally stopped in a sand bed or
something similar.
An Elevator style trap is one in which the plates that form the backstop
are angled the opposite way, the end that rests on the floor is closest
to firing line. The plates are not quite at a 45 degree angle and are
not quite flat. The plate has a slight but definite bow to it. The way
it works is that when a bullet hits the plate, the bullet deforms and
essentially skids up the face of the plate. at the top end of the plate
is a funnel-like opening that guides the bullet into a round chamber (it
is a pipe, actually), where it zips around over 270 degrees, and hits a
fixed stopping plate. The round chamber helps to expend some of the
bullets energy, and also contains the now-splattered lead. Subsequent
shots will knock the lead fragments out of the pipe, where they slide
down the face of the plate and are caught by a small trough at the
floor. Works great, and there is no sifting through nasty dirty sand to
recover the lead.
The trap in question is a copy of one marketed by Caswell about 25
years ago. I'm not sure if they still sell one like it.
-AL
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Posted by Lew Hartswick on February 17, 2008, 10:50 am
Please log in for more thread options Al A. wrote:
> The trap in question is a copy of one marketed by Caswell about 25
> years ago. I'm not sure if they still sell one like it.
>
> -AL
I think the Caswell trap design I saw back about then (I was working
on a target scoring device at that time) used a vertical cylindrical
section for the energy disapating. This was for an individual firing
position
Anyone in this thread ever hear of "Accubar" ?
...lew...
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> Here is the application:
> The steel backstop at our local shooting club's indoor range is an
> "elevator" style trap. Over the years the areas right behind where the
> targets hang seem "erode". The theory is that the metal work hardens from
> the repeated impacts and then bits of metal start to chip out, causing
> roughness and pits that then interferes the proper operation of the trap.
> This happens over the course of years, and in the past, we have ground out
> the rough spots and welded over the area, followed by grinding the welds
> flat and smooth again. Works great.
>
> We now need to do a few areas again, and the question has come up as to
> what type of rod to use. I'm not sure what was used last time, the guy who
> did it is no around to ask. I'm pretty sure it was something garden
> variety like 6011 or something similar, but some have suggested using a
> "hardfacing" type rod for greater longevity. (the guy who suggested that
> faces a lot of 'dozer blades and the like) What do some of the experts
> here suggest? Any ideas?
>
> Other info:
> -Backstop plates are a bit less than 3/4" thick, were once part of a
> backstop in an old National Guard barricks. No idea of the precise
> composition.
> -"Pits" in the plates are mostly 1/16" or less deep.
> -Used for lead handgun shooting only and .22 rifle. No jacketed stuff,
> etc.
> -We have access to fairly serious welder and an experienced man to use it.
>
> -just looking for some informed opinions, so that we can try to make an
> (at least slightly) educated decision.
>
> Thanks!
> -AL