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Posted by on May 11, 2006, 2:13 pm
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I have built a two story 30' x 40' stick framed shop. The main floor
is separated into two sections, one which I plan to insulate, houses my
machine tools, the other I use for welding, car repair etc. Niether
area is panelled yet and I tying to decide how I should go about it.
My current idea for the welding area is to cover the lower 48" with
cement board ($30 for a 4 X 8 sheet) and the remainder with Aspenite
covered in flame retardent paint ($11 for a 4 x 8 sheet). I do not
want to use drywall because I do not want to tape it and it will get
all bashed up. Does anyone have an opinion on the flame retardent
paint?
stan
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Posted by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh on May 11, 2006, 2:27 pm
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>I have built a two story 30' x 40' stick framed shop. The main floor
> is separated into two sections, one which I plan to insulate, houses my
> machine tools, the other I use for welding, car repair etc. Niether
> area is panelled yet and I tying to decide how I should go about it.
> My current idea for the welding area is to cover the lower 48" with
> cement board ($30 for a 4 X 8 sheet) and the remainder with Aspenite
> covered in flame retardent paint ($11 for a 4 x 8 sheet). I do not
> want to use drywall because I do not want to tape it and it will get
> all bashed up. Does anyone have an opinion on the flame retardent
> paint?
So called "intumescent paints" protect fairly well, but not for protracted
exposure. They have a 'bubbling' agent (usually sodium
silicate/metasilicate) that forms a bubbly foam layer on the surface when
heat is applied. Because the silicate bubbles are in large percentage
glass, they protect by forming a layer of heat-resistant insulation when
fire hits the painted object.
They aren't a silver bullet, but can greatly lengthen the exposure time
before a wooden member becomes fully involved in the fire.
If the manufacturer doesn't list the coating as being of the intumescent
variety, I wouldn't trust its ability to resist flame for very long.
LLoyd
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Posted by Pete C. on May 11, 2006, 2:29 pm
Please log in for more thread options sbaer@robustmachine.com wrote:
>
> I have built a two story 30' x 40' stick framed shop. The main floor
> is separated into two sections, one which I plan to insulate, houses my
> machine tools, the other I use for welding, car repair etc. Niether
> area is panelled yet and I tying to decide how I should go about it.
> My current idea for the welding area is to cover the lower 48" with
> cement board ($30 for a 4 X 8 sheet) and the remainder with Aspenite
> covered in flame retardent paint ($11 for a 4 x 8 sheet). I do not
> want to use drywall because I do not want to tape it and it will get
> all bashed up. Does anyone have an opinion on the flame retardent
> paint?
>
> stan
Use 5/8" type X drywall and top it with FRP paneling. Don't bother to
tape the drywall and offset the seams of the FRP from the drywall seams.
All fire rated, durable and fully washable as well.
Pete C.
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Posted by Tom Wait on May 11, 2006, 3:38 pm
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>
> Use 5/8" type X drywall and top it with FRP paneling. Don't bother to
> tape the drywall and offset the seams of the FRP from the drywall seams.
> All fire rated, durable and fully washable as well.
>
> Pete C.
In my jurisdiction type X rock needs to be taped to meet code and presumably
to keep the fire away from the studs. I would rock with at least one layer
of 5/8" X D/W,fire tape the whole wall, finish tape from 4'AFF to the
ceiling and run 1/4" tempered masonite along the wall sideways for impact
protection. FRP or glass board would be nice but costs about $24.00 for a
4X8 sheet, ouch! There is another plastic type panel available, I think its
vinyl, at about $8 a sheet. I'm going to investigate that to protect the
walls in my bluing room.
--
Tom Wait
Barton Rifle Shop
1805 Barton Ave Suite #9
West Bend, Wisconsin 53090
(262) 306-RIFL (7435)
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Posted by Pete C. on May 11, 2006, 3:51 pm
Please log in for more thread options Tom Wait wrote:
>
> >
> > Use 5/8" type X drywall and top it with FRP paneling. Don't bother to
> > tape the drywall and offset the seams of the FRP from the drywall seams.
> > All fire rated, durable and fully washable as well.
> >
> > Pete C.
>
> In my jurisdiction type X rock needs to be taped to meet code and presumably
> to keep the fire away from the studs. I would rock with at least one layer
> of 5/8" X D/W,fire tape the whole wall, finish tape from 4'AFF to the
> ceiling and run 1/4" tempered masonite along the wall sideways for impact
> protection. FRP or glass board would be nice but costs about $24.00 for a
> 4X8 sheet, ouch! There is another plastic type panel available, I think its
> vinyl, at about $8 a sheet. I'm going to investigate that to protect the
> walls in my bluing room.
>
> --
> Tom Wait
> Barton Rifle Shop
> 1805 Barton Ave Suite #9
> West Bend, Wisconsin 53090
> (262) 306-RIFL (7435)
Yes, the FRP is rather expensive. In one place I know of they did the 4'
high guard section in a high abuse area with 1/8" AL diamond plate.
Pretty darned expensive, but holds up well to palette jack abuse.
Pete C.
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> is separated into two sections, one which I plan to insulate, houses my
> machine tools, the other I use for welding, car repair etc. Niether
> area is panelled yet and I tying to decide how I should go about it.
> My current idea for the welding area is to cover the lower 48" with
> cement board ($30 for a 4 X 8 sheet) and the remainder with Aspenite
> covered in flame retardent paint ($11 for a 4 x 8 sheet). I do not
> want to use drywall because I do not want to tape it and it will get
> all bashed up. Does anyone have an opinion on the flame retardent
> paint?