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General Metalworking - All aspects of working with metal.
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Posted by Bernard Arnest on April 4, 2006, 12:11 am
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Hi,
In a couple months I'd like to build a grinder inspired by this one:
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/grinder.html
It seems quite simple in design, and I understand all its functions
although I'd like help on one point-- the 3 wheels.
I was confused at first, thinking that there would be bearings inset
into the arms and that the wheel had a shaft that went into them, until
a friend pointed out that in fact the shaft went into the arms of the
grinder and that the bearings were inset into the wheels themselves.
Are there particular wider bearings for this sort of application, and
what would they be called? Generally I will have a shaft passing
through two bearings spaced fairly far apart, but not here. Possibly,
can I purchase at least the two small back wheels pre-fabricated
without turning from scratch?
Regarding the 14" wheel; that is clearly custom-made. I can bolt two
plates to the edges of a very stubby section of 14" OD aluminum pipe,
with a section of aluminum rod possibly also bolted between the plates
in the center to give something to install the bearings into (or just 2
thinner bearings mounted directly into each of the plates). True this
up on the lathe, and I've got my wheel? Is this a solid plan? More
importantly, however, I really have no idea how to evenly secure 1/4"
of suitable rubber around the wheel. How is this done? I've heard it
referred to as "vulcanized," which I think to simply mean a chemical
curing (at least, I've heard of RTV rubbers, which need a catalyst), so
the rubber is maybe cast onto the wheel and then evened up on the lathe
(if anything cleanly cuts rubber without making a mess of it)...?
thanks!
-Bernard Arnest
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Posted by az_100 on April 4, 2006, 12:55 am
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Bernard, the pic does not show which wheel is the driven one but I
assume its the big one.
If I were to build a grinder like that then I would not bother with the
rubber. At that diameter you should get plenty of friction to drive the
belt.
I have built a 2 wheel belt/ disk sander. The wheels are for a 100mm
wide belt and are only 75mm in diameter. No rubber tire. Works fine,
the belt slips only when I overload it and I like this feature better
than the drive belt slipping or the motor cooking.
Do take care with the belt tracking set up. Belts are not perfect and
you cannot rely on tracking by the wheels being aligned alone. I would
make the rear wheel to be swivelled slightly for belt tracking, the top
wheel for belt tension adjustment and the big wheel the driven one.
Looks like a nice project, have fun making it.
Klaus
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Posted by rashid111 on April 4, 2006, 9:07 am
Please log in for more thread options Bernad, there're HUGE and thriving communities of knifemakers
out there, discussing this and other topics ad-noseum.
Visit:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=741
http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=1
http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showforum.php?fid/46/
To answer some of your Qs:
there're 2 basic belt grinder designs: Big Red (inspired by Goddard)
and KMG/Bader.
Many people build their own, I went with my own design inspired by
BigRed.
As long as one has "driving" wheel of 3" OD or large, it WILL drive the
belt w/o
effort, make sure the belt "hugs" as much of circumference as possible.
No need for rubber on it.
Now, for contact wheel: lotsa folx use rubber caster wheels, some glue
their own
outta MDF (3x3/4") drill/bore for bearings or do a design with pillow
bearings and
shaft.
You'd need a largish lathe (SOB/SOS) to true up a home made one - if it
is Al or steel.
MDF you can true up with just some sandpaper when it is mounted on the
grinder,
assuming you can lower RMP and it is not grossly out of balance.
A very reasonable alternative is to order 10" contact wheel from
Grizzly ($60 or so) .
About putting rubber onto contact wheel: buy a 2" wide Shore A60-70
rubber from McMaster,
in reqd thickness and contact-cement it on. Make sure the seam is nice
and tight and you're
in biz.
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Posted by mike on April 4, 2006, 9:56 am
Please log in for more thread options Do you have any pictures of this "Big Red"?
Mike
> Bernad, there're HUGE and thriving communities of knifemakers
> out there, discussing this and other topics ad-noseum.
>
> Visit:
>
> http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=741
> http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=1
> http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showforum.php?fid/46/
>
> To answer some of your Qs:
>
> there're 2 basic belt grinder designs: Big Red (inspired by Goddard)
> and KMG/Bader.
> Many people build their own, I went with my own design inspired by
> BigRed.
>
> As long as one has "driving" wheel of 3" OD or large, it WILL drive the
> belt w/o
> effort, make sure the belt "hugs" as much of circumference as possible.
>
> No need for rubber on it.
>
> Now, for contact wheel: lotsa folx use rubber caster wheels, some glue
> their own
> outta MDF (3x3/4") drill/bore for bearings or do a design with pillow
> bearings and
> shaft.
>
> You'd need a largish lathe (SOB/SOS) to true up a home made one - if it
> is Al or steel.
> MDF you can true up with just some sandpaper when it is mounted on the
> grinder,
> assuming you can lower RMP and it is not grossly out of balance.
>
> A very reasonable alternative is to order 10" contact wheel from
> Grizzly ($60 or so) .
>
> About putting rubber onto contact wheel: buy a 2" wide Shore A60-70
> rubber from McMaster,
> in reqd thickness and contact-cement it on. Make sure the seam is nice
> and tight and you're
> in biz.
>
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Posted by rashid111 on April 4, 2006, 1:35 pm
Please log in for more thread options http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/752550/post/774815/#774815
: pics
http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/751879/ : in depth
discussion
Big Red is what Goddard called his design. It uses sturdier C-channel
metal frame and
has an "adjusto-arm". Mine is much simpler
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> out there, discussing this and other topics ad-noseum.
>
> Visit:
>
> http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=741
> http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=1
> http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showforum.php?fid/46/
>
> To answer some of your Qs:
>
> there're 2 basic belt grinder designs: Big Red (inspired by Goddard)
> and KMG/Bader.
> Many people build their own, I went with my own design inspired by
> BigRed.
>
> As long as one has "driving" wheel of 3" OD or large, it WILL drive the
> belt w/o
> effort, make sure the belt "hugs" as much of circumference as possible.
>
> No need for rubber on it.
>
> Now, for contact wheel: lotsa folx use rubber caster wheels, some glue
> their own
> outta MDF (3x3/4") drill/bore for bearings or do a design with pillow
> bearings and
> shaft.
>
> You'd need a largish lathe (SOB/SOS) to true up a home made one - if it
> is Al or steel.
> MDF you can true up with just some sandpaper when it is mounted on the
> grinder,
> assuming you can lower RMP and it is not grossly out of balance.
>
> A very reasonable alternative is to order 10" contact wheel from
> Grizzly ($60 or so) .
>
> About putting rubber onto contact wheel: buy a 2" wide Shore A60-70
> rubber from McMaster,
> in reqd thickness and contact-cement it on. Make sure the seam is nice
> and tight and you're
> in biz.
>