puzzlenuts redux

> After successfully removing two puzzlenuts with the shop-made key, the
> key failed on the third one. Sheared the rods right off. Mmm. Rods
> were made of 1/8 mild steel rod. Made new key from the previous
> drawing, using drillrod this time.
>
> Then it started raining for several days. It finally stopped
> yesterday.
>
> Weather ain't great, but it ain't raining and I no longer need a canoe
> or waders to go in the back yard, so time to remove the last
> puzzlenut.
>
> Pull boat out of boat tent. Assemble tools. Tap new snug-fitting
> tool onto last puzzlenut with deadblow hammer until it goes bang
> rather than thud. I did say snug fit, right?
> OK, it's fully seated. Assemble socket, ratchet, and 24" cheater
> (old Rabbit front driveshaft), place on puzzlenut tool, mutter
> invocation to St. Erho, start applying steadily increasing
> pressure on yonder end of the cheater bar. The truck and trailer
> rolled backwards a bit. Leaned a bit harder.
>
> SNAP! Snap? I didn't plan on snap, what's with the snap, I mused
> curiously. I muttered the ancient Celtic word for "curious" which
> has rather different connations in modern English......that's my story
> and I'm stickin' to it.
>
> The welds between the hex part and the key had snapped. Mmmm. My
> welds failed. This does not happen in real life. Leprechauns named
> Murphy have been dancing in my back yard. Now I gotta get that
> muthuh off of there, hadn't planned on that.
>
> Large visegrip, couple of sideways taps to rock it a bit, a little
> prying with large screwdriver, thoop! Came off without a fight. Snug
> fit, nyaahh! Drillrods within are pristine and laughing at me.
> Bring bits into shop, fit together, fire up the TIG and weld the
> snot out of it. All the way round this time, puhlenty of heat, used
> ER70S-6 filler this time. If it's good enough for airframe welding,
> it oughta be good enough for this job. Puddle the size of a 12D
> nailhead, probably at least as deep as its radius. Got me some
> penetration, and generous fillet build as well. Tossed it in the
> water bucket to maybe lightly heat-treat the drillrods within.
>
> Go back out, tap tool onto puzzlenut until it goes bang rather than
> thud. Just 3 light taps this time. Assemble tools, start leaning
> on the yonder end of the cheater. Truck and trailer start rolling.
> Keep increasing the torque. Hello, the cheaterbar is still moving
> but the truck and trailer are no longer rolling! YESSS!!!!
>
> A few strokes later, I'm looking at a bare stud, mercifully not a
> sheared off stud. Man, it hadda be close -- I've sheared off 3/4"
> bumper bolts with that kinda torque. Those studs must be some kinda
> robust steel. Smear a bit of anti-sieze on the stud, wind on new
> puzzlenut to about 60 lbf-ft of torque, replace hub cover, put new key
> in the captive mesh bag in the tacklebox locker, lock the hatch,
> back boat back into tent with big grin.
>
> Gee, it only took me two or three weeks to get that nut off -- but I
> got 'er done as they say. Sure glad I decided to get that leaky tire
> fixed in my backyard rather than alongside a road somewhere.

>
>
>Is what looks like a washer under the nut in your first photo just that,
> there to span the gap because the puzzlenut has a closed end?

>
>Didja try flooding the area with Kroil at any point in the exercise?

>
> On Fri, 05 May 2006 11:02:11 -0400, Jeff Wisnia

> >
> >
> >Is what looks like a washer under the nut in your first photo just that,
> > there to span the gap because the puzzlenut has a closed end?

>
> No, the nut is all one piece. The ring is where a concentric slip
> collar was affixed before I removed it with a chisel.

> >
> >Didja try flooding the area with Kroil at any point in the exercise?

>
> Wouldn't have helped. The regular lugnuts showed no rust so I figured
> the puzzlenut wouldn't either. It was just on tight. The puzzlenut
> and lug threads were in excellent condition when I finally got that
> sucker off.