|
General Metalworking - All aspects of working with metal.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted by dave on October 3, 2008, 12:53 pm
Please log in for more thread options
ok, got my ancient dialarc on ebay. still have no idea if the tig
functions work entirely, some, or not at all. seller told me (when I
picked it up) "welder wasn't tigging right, took it in to have it
repaired, they fixed it, and it hasn't worked right since"
when I first got it home, I tried the welder (on AC and DC). it welded
horribly, output didn't seem adjustable, and also seemed WAY
underpowered. removed all the welders outer sheetmetal, cleaned it up
inside, and while 'detailing' the interior found a wire disconnected at
the rheostat. pushed the female end back onto its male spade@the
rheostat. -assumed- (hoped) the wire disconnected at the rheostat was
why. tested it again (AC and DC only) with the wire back ON and got
VASTLY improved results.
anyway, bubba here has no TIG gas bottle, and, to be frank-like, doesn't
want to spring for one just for "TIG functions" test purposes. need to
find out:
- if the footpedal functions seem workable, and
- if the gas and water flow solenoids (and their related circuits and
hoses and such) seem workable, and
- if the HF spark-gap point setup is functioning, and
- if the TIG gas regulator and flowmeter seems workable
what I'm thinking is I can hook the tig torch water to the garden hose,
and feed compressed air into the gas solenoid, plug in the footpedal,
flick both switches to 'remote', flick the HF 'on' and see if the spark
will jump a gap (torch to workpiece). the .008 HF contacts have already
been cleaned and correctly gapped, of course. NO welding whatsoever will
be attempted (while using 'air substituting for argon')
questions: once the garden hose water flow is on (open to the welder),
does the water flow 'full time' when the garden hose valve is open, or
only when the tig has an ARC going? or when?
and re the (tig cooler pump) electrical outlet in the welder face near
the water solenoid: I assume it's live, uhh, when? ALL the time,
whenever the welder main switch is on? or just when the main switch is
on and both front toggle switches are set to 'remote'? or, does anybody
know?
I think I can test, with the procedure above, wether I have good water
flow through the torch, and wether the HF spark will jump the (tungsten
to workpiece) gap. I assume if it does, the points are 'sparking away'
and are also "good to go". maybe the air flow to the gas regulator will
show if the regulator is also workable, and the tiny white flowmeter
ball will go up slightly when I turn the regulator knob...
still not at all clear if I can test the 'footpedal functions' at all
using the tests above...
is this test a doable idea? I realize "it's a bit on the screwy side"
but we can address that later :-)
thanks for ideas and insights, guys :-)
toolie
dialarc "looked like this" on day one:
http://machines.freehostia.com/dialarc_offloading/index3.html
|
|
Posted by Stupendous Man on October 3, 2008, 1:07 pm
Please log in for more thread options
I have the HF-P machine. I downloaded the manual from Miller for free.
http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php
You might be able to test it with co2 if you have it.
Get the argon bottle. Tig is so clean.
--
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
|
|
Posted by Gunner on October 8, 2008, 3:36 am
Please log in for more thread options
wrote:
>I have the HF-P machine. I downloaded the manual from Miller for free.
>http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php
>You might be able to test it with co2 if you have it.
The electrode will last about 15 seconds...sigh..been there, done
that.
>Get the argon bottle. Tig is so clean.
|
|
Posted by Ignoramus26581 on October 3, 2008, 1:08 pm
Please log in for more thread options
> ok, got my ancient dialarc on ebay. still have no idea if the tig
> functions work entirely, some, or not at all. seller told me (when I
> picked it up) "welder wasn't tigging right, took it in to have it
> repaired, they fixed it, and it hasn't worked right since"
This is a very simple welder, with plenty of people who own similar
ones, etc.
> when I first got it home, I tried the welder (on AC and DC). it welded
> horribly, output didn't seem adjustable, and also seemed WAY
> underpowered. removed all the welders outer sheetmetal, cleaned it up
> inside, and while 'detailing' the interior found a wire disconnected at
> the rheostat. pushed the female end back onto its male spade@the
> rheostat. -assumed- (hoped) the wire disconnected at the rheostat was
> why. tested it again (AC and DC only) with the wire back ON and got
> VASTLY improved results.
cool
> anyway, bubba here has no TIG gas bottle, and, to be frank-like, doesn't
> want to spring for one just for "TIG functions" test purposes. need to
> find out:
>
> - if the footpedal functions seem workable, and
you need to read the manual. You can test the pedal with regular
welding rod. Set it to REMOTE and use the pedal to turn it on and off.
> - if the gas and water flow solenoids (and their related circuits and
> hoses and such) seem workable, and
>
> - if the HF spark-gap point setup is functioning, and
Again, use your stick electrode at low setting and see if
1) there is hissing sound from the spark gap
2) the arc starts when you get your electrode merely near
"work". (without contact) If so the HF works fine
Again, set your HF intensity low so you do not get stung.
> - if the TIG gas regulator and flowmeter seems workable
they probably are fine
> what I'm thinking is I can hook the tig torch water to the garden hose,
> and feed compressed air into the gas solenoid, plug in the footpedal,
> flick both switches to 'remote', flick the HF 'on' and see if the spark
> will jump a gap (torch to workpiece). the .008 HF contacts have already
> been cleaned and correctly gapped, of course. NO welding whatsoever will
> be attempted (while using 'air substituting for argon')
You do not need any of that to check it, just use your stick electrode
as I said above
> questions: once the garden hose water flow is on (open to the welder),
> does the water flow 'full time' when the garden hose valve is open, or
> only when the tig has an ARC going? or when?
Your manual should say that
> and re the (tig cooler pump) electrical outlet in the welder face near
> the water solenoid: I assume it's live, uhh, when? ALL the time,
> whenever the welder main switch is on? or just when the main switch is
> on and both front toggle switches are set to 'remote'? or, does anybody
> know?
test it with your multimeter
> I think I can test, with the procedure above, wether I have good water
> flow through the torch, and wether the HF spark will jump the (tungsten
> to workpiece) gap. I assume if it does, the points are 'sparking away'
> and are also "good to go". maybe the air flow to the gas regulator will
> show if the regulator is also workable, and the tiny white flowmeter
> ball will go up slightly when I turn the regulator knob...
>
> still not at all clear if I can test the 'footpedal functions' at all
> using the tests above...
>
> is this test a doable idea? I realize "it's a bit on the screwy side"
> but we can address that later :-)
all is doable in under 5 minutes.
i
> thanks for ideas and insights, guys :-)
>
> toolie
>
> dialarc "looked like this" on day one:
> http://machines.freehostia.com/dialarc_offloading/index3.html
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/
|
|
Posted by Gunner on October 8, 2008, 3:36 am
Please log in for more thread options
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 12:08:24 -0500, Ignoramus26581
>> ok, got my ancient dialarc on ebay. still have no idea if the tig
>> functions work entirely, some, or not at all. seller told me (when I
>> picked it up) "welder wasn't tigging right, took it in to have it
>> repaired, they fixed it, and it hasn't worked right since"
>
>This is a very simple welder, with plenty of people who own similar
>ones, etc.
>
>> when I first got it home, I tried the welder (on AC and DC). it welded
>> horribly, output didn't seem adjustable, and also seemed WAY
>> underpowered. removed all the welders outer sheetmetal, cleaned it up
>> inside, and while 'detailing' the interior found a wire disconnected at
>> the rheostat. pushed the female end back onto its male spade@the
>> rheostat. -assumed- (hoped) the wire disconnected at the rheostat was
>> why. tested it again (AC and DC only) with the wire back ON and got
>> VASTLY improved results.
>
>cool
>
>> anyway, bubba here has no TIG gas bottle, and, to be frank-like, doesn't
>> want to spring for one just for "TIG functions" test purposes. need to
>> find out:
>>
>> - if the footpedal functions seem workable, and
>
>you need to read the manual. You can test the pedal with regular
>welding rod. Set it to REMOTE and use the pedal to turn it on and off.
AND check the HF.
Stick welding with 70xx with the HF turned on is a treat. Restarts are
instantaneous and brisk. (sorry..forgot he said he had leads, when I
wrote my previous posting)
>
>> - if the gas and water flow solenoids (and their related circuits and
>> hoses and such) seem workable, and
>>
>> - if the HF spark-gap point setup is functioning, and
>
>Again, use your stick electrode at low setting and see if
>
>1) there is hissing sound from the spark gap
>
>2) the arc starts when you get your electrode merely near
>"work". (without contact) If so the HF works fine
>
>Again, set your HF intensity low so you do not get stung.
>
>> - if the TIG gas regulator and flowmeter seems workable
>
>they probably are fine
>
>
>> what I'm thinking is I can hook the tig torch water to the garden hose,
>> and feed compressed air into the gas solenoid, plug in the footpedal,
>> flick both switches to 'remote', flick the HF 'on' and see if the spark
>> will jump a gap (torch to workpiece). the .008 HF contacts have already
>> been cleaned and correctly gapped, of course. NO welding whatsoever will
>> be attempted (while using 'air substituting for argon')
>
>You do not need any of that to check it, just use your stick electrode
>as I said above
>
>> questions: once the garden hose water flow is on (open to the welder),
>> does the water flow 'full time' when the garden hose valve is open, or
>> only when the tig has an ARC going? or when?
>
>Your manual should say that
>
>> and re the (tig cooler pump) electrical outlet in the welder face near
>> the water solenoid: I assume it's live, uhh, when? ALL the time,
>> whenever the welder main switch is on? or just when the main switch is
>> on and both front toggle switches are set to 'remote'? or, does anybody
>> know?
>
>test it with your multimeter
>
>> I think I can test, with the procedure above, wether I have good water
>> flow through the torch, and wether the HF spark will jump the (tungsten
>> to workpiece) gap. I assume if it does, the points are 'sparking away'
>> and are also "good to go". maybe the air flow to the gas regulator will
>> show if the regulator is also workable, and the tiny white flowmeter
>> ball will go up slightly when I turn the regulator knob...
>>
>> still not at all clear if I can test the 'footpedal functions' at all
>> using the tests above...
>>
>> is this test a doable idea? I realize "it's a bit on the screwy side"
>> but we can address that later :-)
>
>all is doable in under 5 minutes.
>
>i
>
>> thanks for ideas and insights, guys :-)
>>
>> toolie
>>
>> dialarc "looked like this" on day one:
>> http://machines.freehostia.com/dialarc_offloading/index3.html
|
| Similar Threads | Posted | | it's very beautiful, I'll measure about or Sue will provide the functions | August 12, 2007, 8:10 pm |
| when will we provoke after Abbas functions the spontaneous corner's provision | August 12, 2007, 11:47 pm |
| where Edwin's distinguished swimming functions, Norma spills next to automatic, middle helicopters | August 12, 2007, 6:19 pm |
| FS -- Miller Dialarc HF with everything | November 20, 2007, 3:49 pm |
| Miller Dialarc in Chicagoland | January 15, 2008, 7:20 pm |
| what're these four tiny capacitors DO for me inside my ol' Dialarc HF? | August 12, 2008, 8:07 pm |
| andhra movie news,gossips,functions,Movie reviews,movie Wallpapers,travel information. | December 26, 2007, 4:29 am |
| who's got parts for the OLD "whiteface" dialarc HF's? need the RARE side decals, & new faceplates... | August 12, 2008, 8:29 pm |
| HF Propane Bottle Refill Kit | November 30, 2006, 12:46 pm |
| Aluminium milk bottle | July 14, 2007, 9:58 pm |
|
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
>http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php
>You might be able to test it with co2 if you have it.