what are some ways to remove cylinder sleeves in an old engine.

General Metalworking - All aspects of working with metal. 

Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
what are some ways to remove cylinder sleeves in an old engine. Modat22 05-27-2008
Posted by Modat22 on May 27, 2008, 2:58 pm
Please log in for more thread options
I picked up an old international 350 utility tractor and suspect that
I'll have to overhaul the engine. I've rebuilt car and truck engines
before but never resleeved one.

I've seen sleeve pullers that use a pipe larger then the sleeve and a
plate that goes on the other side of the sleeve that uses a bolt to
pull the sleeve out of the block and into the larger pipe (seems like
the best option).

Are there any other backyard methods that might be easier to throw
together?


The reason I suspect a rebuild is in order. Last year I got the
tractor which had hydraulic problems (clogged prefilter) I repaired
the hydraulics (cleaned the filter) and the thing ran great, good oil
pressure, changed oil. I only ran the tractor down the driveway and
put it up for the winter. This year I tried to start it and the engine
has a squeak in the front end somewhere and is so tight the starter
doesn't want to turn over. I am unable to rotate the engine with a
strong arm. I can't locate where the squeak is coming from and assume
it is the #1 cylinder or front main bearing. Ether one requires the
engine be removed and figured I might as well overhaul it while its
out.

Thanks in advance.

Sorry if this is off topic.

Posted by BillM on May 27, 2008, 3:06 pm
Please log in for more thread options

>I picked up an old international 350 utility
>tractor and suspect that
> I'll have to overhaul the engine. I've rebuilt
> car and truck engines
> before but never resleeved one.
>
> I've seen sleeve pullers that use a pipe
> larger then the sleeve and a
> plate that goes on the other side of the
> sleeve that uses a bolt to
> pull the sleeve out of the block and into the
> larger pipe (seems like
> the best option).
>
> Are there any other backyard methods that
> might be easier to throw
> together?
>
>
> The reason I suspect a rebuild is in order.
> Last year I got the
> tractor which had hydraulic problems (clogged
> prefilter) I repaired
> the hydraulics (cleaned the filter) and the
> thing ran great, good oil
> pressure, changed oil. I only ran the tractor
> down the driveway and
> put it up for the winter. This year I tried to
> start it and the engine
> has a squeak in the front end somewhere and is
> so tight the starter
> doesn't want to turn over. I am unable to
> rotate the engine with a
> strong arm. I can't locate where the squeak is
> coming from and assume
> it is the #1 cylinder or front main bearing.
> Ether one requires the
> engine be removed and figured I might as well
> overhaul it while its
> out.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Sorry if this is off topic.

Gas or diesel?



Posted by Modat22 on May 27, 2008, 3:13 pm
Please log in for more thread options
wrote:

>
>>I picked up an old international 350 utility
>>tractor and suspect that
>> I'll have to overhaul the engine. I've rebuilt
>> car and truck engines
>> before but never resleeved one.
>>
>> I've seen sleeve pullers that use a pipe
>> larger then the sleeve and a
>> plate that goes on the other side of the
>> sleeve that uses a bolt to
>> pull the sleeve out of the block and into the
>> larger pipe (seems like
>> the best option).
>>
>> Are there any other backyard methods that
>> might be easier to throw
>> together?
>>
>>
>> The reason I suspect a rebuild is in order.
>> Last year I got the
>> tractor which had hydraulic problems (clogged
>> prefilter) I repaired
>> the hydraulics (cleaned the filter) and the
>> thing ran great, good oil
>> pressure, changed oil. I only ran the tractor
>> down the driveway and
>> put it up for the winter. This year I tried to
>> start it and the engine
>> has a squeak in the front end somewhere and is
>> so tight the starter
>> doesn't want to turn over. I am unable to
>> rotate the engine with a
>> strong arm. I can't locate where the squeak is
>> coming from and assume
>> it is the #1 cylinder or front main bearing.
>> Ether one requires the
>> engine be removed and figured I might as well
>> overhaul it while its
>> out.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Sorry if this is off topic.
>
>Gas or diesel?
>

Oops sorry its Gas

Posted by jw on May 27, 2008, 3:16 pm
Please log in for more thread options
> I picked up an old international 350 utility tractor and suspect that
> I'll have to overhaul the engine. I've rebuilt car and truck engines
> before but never resleeved one.
>
> I've seen sleeve pullers that use a pipe larger then the sleeve and a
> plate that goes on the other side of the sleeve that uses a bolt to
> pull the sleeve out of the block and into the larger pipe (seems like
> the best option).
>
> Are there any other backyard methods that might be easier to throw
> together?
>
> The reason I suspect a rebuild is in order. Last year I got the
> tractor which had hydraulic problems (clogged prefilter) I repaired
> the hydraulics (cleaned the filter) and the thing ran great, good oil
> pressure, changed oil. I only ran the tractor down the driveway and
> put it up for the winter. This year I tried to start it and the engine
> has a squeak in the front end somewhere and is so tight the starter
> doesn't want to turn over. I am unable to rotate the engine with a
> strong arm. I can't locate where the squeak is coming from and assume
> it is the #1 cylinder or front main bearing. Ether one requires the
> engine be removed and figured I might as well overhaul it while its
> out.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Sorry if this is off topic.

Yes, the pipe method(or similarly with a bridge) works very well. A
little bit "backyard", but a method that works for a stubborn sleeve,
is to run a bead down the inside of the cylinder. The unbalanced
heating and cooling will cause the sleeve to shift a little bit and
allow it to "pop".

Do you know if this is a dry or wet sleeve? I can't remember off
hand. I think this may be a dry sleeve.

Are you sure that water didn't get into the engine? I would suspect
that over a bad front bearing. You didn't specify, but I assume this
is a gas tractor. (The 350 came in either).

Do you have to pull the motor to work on it? Many tractors can be
worked on in situ, stripping them down to a fairly bare block. Again
not intimately familiar with that model. Green is more my flavor...

JW

Posted by Modat22 on May 27, 2008, 3:25 pm
Please log in for more thread options
>Yes, the pipe method(or similarly with a bridge) works very well. A
>little bit "backyard", but a method that works for a stubborn sleeve,
>is to run a bead down the inside of the cylinder. The unbalanced
>heating and cooling will cause the sleeve to shift a little bit and
>allow it to "pop".
>
>Do you know if this is a dry or wet sleeve? I can't remember off
>hand. I think this may be a dry sleeve.
>
>Are you sure that water didn't get into the engine? I would suspect
>that over a bad front bearing. You didn't specify, but I assume this
>is a gas tractor. (The 350 came in either).
>
>Do you have to pull the motor to work on it? Many tractors can be
>worked on in situ, stripping them down to a fairly bare block. Again
>not intimately familiar with that model. Green is more my flavor...
>
>JW

Before running the tractor I went ahead and changed the oil because in
my area folks have a tendency to leave the original oil in an engine,
as far as water in the engine, I see no evidence so far. I put it in a
barn over winter and no leaks unless coolant from the radiator got in
there.

Not sure if its a wet or dry sleeve, I have a book on order. As far of
leaving the engine in place goes. If I don't have to do crank work it
can probably stay in place though it would probably be easier on an
engine stand though perhaps not. Never rebuilt a tractor engine
before.

Good compression in all cylinders (90 to 120 psi) small variance among
between cylinders (plus or minus 2 to 4 psi). Valves appear free.

I even suspected the hydraulic pump because I messed with the
hydraulics so I took it off for a bit to see if that was the prob but
it wasn't.


Similar ThreadsPosted
Slow-mo video shot inside cylinder of running engine October 5, 2007, 1:24 pm
Sleeves for putting hydraulic cylinders together. November 20, 2008, 6:01 pm
fabricating and hardening some small steel sleeves September 11, 2007, 12:27 pm
if you'll decide Pearl's festival with sleeves, it'll permanently obscure the allegation August 12, 2007, 6:54 pm
let's stretch on the part of the fond cinemas, but don't formulate the unfair sleeves August 12, 2007, 9:31 pm
OT -- story that is sad in very many ways July 17, 2007, 4:51 pm
Ever seen a lathe with replaceable ways? April 14, 2006, 8:53 pm
Unusual ways of carrying cargo October 20, 2006, 10:48 am
hey, ways declare because of rural navels, unless they're traditional August 12, 2007, 7:36 pm
~~~~!! EASY And AUTOMATIC Ways To Make Money Online !!~~~~ November 14, 2007, 12:59 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap