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Posted by woodworker88 on March 30, 2006, 3:49 pm
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>How about an aqueous gel? In firefighting we've got a substance
>known as AFG (Aqueous Firefighting Gel...sometimes the names are so
>descriptive) that puts a coating of, well, goo, onto a surface. Sticks
>well, rinses off with water, and isn't prohibitively expensive.
Just curious, but what do you use it for in firefighting?
It seems like it would work to protect surfaces.
I wonder if you could adhere some plastic or paper film to the surface,
like the stuff that comes on sheets of acrylic or polycarbonate plastic.
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Posted by Dave Hinz on March 30, 2006, 4:17 pm
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>>How about an aqueous gel? In firefighting we've got a substance
>>known as AFG (Aqueous Firefighting Gel...sometimes the names are so
>>descriptive) that puts a coating of, well, goo, onto a surface. Sticks
>>well, rinses off with water, and isn't prohibitively expensive.
>
> Just curious, but what do you use it for in firefighting?
> It seems like it would work to protect surfaces.
It's very much like using a foam; it provides a coating, an airtight
film. The fact that it has so much water in it helps it to have more
thermal mass than just foam bubbles, and the slime stays there longer
than the foam which tends to burn off. On barn fires, for instance, you
can slime a side and as long as you don't let it evaporate off, that
exposure is protected. It's messy but effective, and a couple rains (or
a hose) takes it off.
> I wonder if you could adhere some plastic or paper film to the surface,
> like the stuff that comes on sheets of acrylic or polycarbonate plastic.
Well, the sparks are hot. Any plastic or fabric coating would either
burn or melt, making the problem worse I would think. You want
something that has protection and a way to cool the spark; I think the
slime is worth investigating.
Same stuff is in absorbant disposable diapers, I think. This is just
far more diluted.
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Posted by Trevor Jones on March 30, 2006, 7:11 pm
Please log in for more thread options RainLover wrote:
> WHAT ABOUT THIS:
>
> Is there any sort of oil or coating I can apply that will keep the
> grinding sparks from sticking and yet wash off or presure wash off?
> (or peel off)???
>
> Thanks,
>
> James
>
> www.jameskelseystudios.com
Check with a supplier to commercial bodywork and automotive paint
shops. There is a product that can be sprayed on the walls of spray
booths to keep the paint overspray from building up. Liquid Mask IIRC.
Water soluble, should come off with a soak with a garden hose. Dunno
what a 5 gallon bucket is worth, but I have sprayed a bunch of it onto
walls. Should work for something like this.
Cheers
Trevor Jones
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Posted by Rob on March 31, 2006, 8:46 am
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> wrote:
>
> >I have been doing a lot of welding and grinding of 316L lately. After
316
> >has been heated for any reason it needs to be passivated to remove the
free
> >iron. I give the parts a 10-20 minute dip in Citrisurf 2250 between the
> >grinding and polishing stage.
>
> Thanks for all the responses everyone. Here's my problem... due to
> the construction technique I need to use, SOME parts of the sculpture
> are completely FINISHED before I can do final assembly.
>
> That's because once assembed, it would be impossible to put my final
> grind treatment on many locations.
>
>
> WHAT ABOUT THIS:
>
> Is there any sort of oil or coating I can apply that will keep the
> grinding sparks from sticking and yet wash off or presure wash off?
> (or peel off)???
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> James
>
> www.jameskelseystudios.com
>
>
Mig welding spatter guard / rich detergent solution?
or even wallpaper glue?
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Posted by Roger on March 29, 2006, 4:00 pm
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> Hey everyone,
>
> I build sculpture out of 316L Stainless Steel and am having serious
> RUST issues. It seem anywhere I grind using a hard disk to grind down
> welds will ends up with a ton of surface rust where ever the sparks of
> the grinding hit the sculpture. I'm having to RE-finish pieces to
> remove the millions of specks of rust that develop.
>
> What's going on here? Is there carbide precipitation happening in
> each spark? (I can't get away from hard grinding some areas of my
> work after final assembly and the finish polish is already on 90% of
> sculpture.)
>
> Is it the grinding wheel I'm using? (Do some disks have Ferrous
> material in them or something??) I usually don't use grinding wheels
> stamped "for stainless" because of their cost, but I always thought
> that was a matter of HOW they remove material, not that they would
> contaminate stainless steel.
>
> Any suggestions????
>
>
Try a can of anti spatter spray (welding) - we used that in repairs of SS
road
tankers for year and it always worked.
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>known as AFG (Aqueous Firefighting Gel...sometimes the names are so
>descriptive) that puts a coating of, well, goo, onto a surface. Sticks
>well, rinses off with water, and isn't prohibitively expensive.