Anyone 'speak' Startrite Bandsaw?

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Anyone 'speak' Startrite Bandsaw? Bob Minchin 08-15-2006
Posted by Bob Minchin on August 15, 2006, 4:21 pm
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I'm considering a secondhand upright bandsaw.
Startrite current models are out of my price range even secondhand and their
tables only seem to tilt to 20 degrees and I want 45.
Older machines which are nearer my price range have numbers like 18-s-10.
the first seems to be the throat size in inches, the next character can be
S,T,Ror V and I'm unsure what the last number means - tends to be 1 or 10.

Can anyone tell me the difference between S,T,R and V models and what the
last digits mean. Do they all have tilting tables to 45degrees?

TIA

Bob



Posted by Andrew Mawson on August 15, 2006, 5:59 pm
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> I'm considering a secondhand upright bandsaw.
> Startrite current models are out of my price range even secondhand
and their
> tables only seem to tilt to 20 degrees and I want 45.
> Older machines which are nearer my price range have numbers like
18-s-10.
> the first seems to be the throat size in inches, the next character
can be
> S,T,Ror V and I'm unsure what the last number means - tends to be 1
or 10.
>
> Can anyone tell me the difference between S,T,R and V models and
what the
> last digits mean. Do they all have tilting tables to 45degrees?
>
> TIA
>
> Bob
>
>

Bob,

I have a Startrite 18 V 10 and I must say I am very pleased with it.
This model is 10 speeds which it achieves with a two speed gear box
and 5 pulley grooves.I think the 10 in the model number is the maximum
thickness of cut in inches (or at least the daylight between table and
upper guide). Mine is fitted with the optional blade welder which I
find invaluable. My only slight complaint is I could sometimes do with
more throat size but then I suppose that machines all have their
limitations! I think that the 18 S 10 is a 5 speed machine without
the gear box. I believe that there are metal cutting and wood cutting
(ie different speed ranges) of the 'S' models but for general workshop
use I think that you need the 10 speed. I believe that the whole
range is fitted with the tilting table. Mine is also fitted with the
optional blower that puffs on the cut to keep a clear sight line,
which is quite useful. It is only a small vane pump belt driven off
the motor. I think that the whole range don't comply with modern
safety regs so beware if you are using it commercially (you can for
instance open the access door to the blade wheels without stopping
the machine). There are several styles of blade guide including ones
using roller bearings and even one that twists the blade through 45
degrees for slicing bits apparently too large for the table. The book
of words though says that the solid insert guides (a hardened block
with a slit deep enough that the blade sits in with just the teeth
protruding) is the most accurate for precision sawing.All in all
though a very solid and simple machine that sees a lot of varied uses
in my workshop. spares are still available from:

http://www.machinespares.net/index.html

If you are passing through Bromley by all means come and have a play
with it.

AWEM



Posted by Bob Minchin on August 16, 2006, 2:32 pm
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>
> > I'm considering a secondhand upright bandsaw.
> > Startrite current models are out of my price range even secondhand
> and their
> > tables only seem to tilt to 20 degrees and I want 45.
> > Older machines which are nearer my price range have numbers like
> 18-s-10.
> > the first seems to be the throat size in inches, the next character
> can be
> > S,T,Ror V and I'm unsure what the last number means - tends to be 1
> or 10.
> >
> > Can anyone tell me the difference between S,T,R and V models and
> what the
> > last digits mean. Do they all have tilting tables to 45degrees?
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
>
> Bob,
>
> I have a Startrite 18 V 10 and I must say I am very pleased with it.
> This model is 10 speeds which it achieves with a two speed gear box
> and 5 pulley grooves.I think the 10 in the model number is the maximum
> thickness of cut in inches (or at least the daylight between table and
> upper guide). Mine is fitted with the optional blade welder which I
> find invaluable. My only slight complaint is I could sometimes do with
> more throat size but then I suppose that machines all have their
> limitations! I think that the 18 S 10 is a 5 speed machine without
> the gear box. I believe that there are metal cutting and wood cutting
> (ie different speed ranges) of the 'S' models but for general workshop
> use I think that you need the 10 speed. I believe that the whole
> range is fitted with the tilting table. Mine is also fitted with the
> optional blower that puffs on the cut to keep a clear sight line,
> which is quite useful. It is only a small vane pump belt driven off
> the motor. I think that the whole range don't comply with modern
> safety regs so beware if you are using it commercially (you can for
> instance open the access door to the blade wheels without stopping
> the machine). There are several styles of blade guide including ones
> using roller bearings and even one that twists the blade through 45
> degrees for slicing bits apparently too large for the table. The book
> of words though says that the solid insert guides (a hardened block
> with a slit deep enough that the blade sits in with just the teeth
> protruding) is the most accurate for precision sawing.All in all
> though a very solid and simple machine that sees a lot of varied uses
> in my workshop. spares are still available from:
>
> http://www.machinespares.net/index.html
>
> If you are passing through Bromley by all means come and have a play
> with it.
>
> AWEM
>
>

Hi Andrew,

Thanks for your helpful reply.
In one aspect I rather hope you are incorrect as I'm considering a 18-S-1
which is for sale near me. I hope it will have more than a 1 inch cutting
capability!!

I do need the capability more for wood as well as some metal.(Dare I mention
wood in this company??) So maybe a mixture of inverter drive and pulley
steps will give me sufficient speed range. I'm quite happy to add an extra
fixed speed fan to the motor if needed.

If anyone else can shed light on the T & R models I'd be grateful.

Elsewhere, I have found (curiously) that the S,T & V are covered by one
manual and another volume covers T, V & R. I'm assuming therefore that all
four models are not that dissimilar.

Regards

Bob



Posted by NoSpam on August 16, 2006, 4:46 pm
Please log in for more thread options
Bob Minchin wrote:
>>> I'm considering a secondhand upright bandsaw.
>>> Startrite current models are out of my price range even secondhand
>> and their
>>> tables only seem to tilt to 20 degrees and I want 45.
>>> Older machines which are nearer my price range have numbers like
>> 18-s-10.
>>> the first seems to be the throat size in inches, the next character
>> can be
>>> S,T,Ror V and I'm unsure what the last number means - tends to be 1
>> or 10.
>>> Can anyone tell me the difference between S,T,R and V models and
>> what the
>>> last digits mean. Do they all have tilting tables to 45degrees?
>>>
>>> TIA
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> I have a Startrite 18 V 10 and I must say I am very pleased with it.
>> This model is 10 speeds which it achieves with a two speed gear box
>> and 5 pulley grooves.I think the 10 in the model number is the maximum
>> thickness of cut in inches (or at least the daylight between table and
>> upper guide). Mine is fitted with the optional blade welder which I
>> find invaluable. My only slight complaint is I could sometimes do with
>> more throat size but then I suppose that machines all have their
>> limitations! I think that the 18 S 10 is a 5 speed machine without
>> the gear box. I believe that there are metal cutting and wood cutting
>> (ie different speed ranges) of the 'S' models but for general workshop
>> use I think that you need the 10 speed. I believe that the whole
>> range is fitted with the tilting table. Mine is also fitted with the
>> optional blower that puffs on the cut to keep a clear sight line,
>> which is quite useful. It is only a small vane pump belt driven off
>> the motor. I think that the whole range don't comply with modern
>> safety regs so beware if you are using it commercially (you can for
>> instance open the access door to the blade wheels without stopping
>> the machine). There are several styles of blade guide including ones
>> using roller bearings and even one that twists the blade through 45
>> degrees for slicing bits apparently too large for the table. The book
>> of words though says that the solid insert guides (a hardened block
>> with a slit deep enough that the blade sits in with just the teeth
>> protruding) is the most accurate for precision sawing.All in all
>> though a very solid and simple machine that sees a lot of varied uses
>> in my workshop. spares are still available from:
>>
>> http://www.machinespares.net/index.html
>>
>> If you are passing through Bromley by all means come and have a play
>> with it.
>>
>> AWEM
>>
>>
>
> Hi Andrew,
>
> Thanks for your helpful reply.
> In one aspect I rather hope you are incorrect as I'm considering a 18-S-1
> which is for sale near me. I hope it will have more than a 1 inch cutting
> capability!!
>
> I do need the capability more for wood as well as some metal.(Dare I mention
> wood in this company??) So maybe a mixture of inverter drive and pulley
> steps will give me sufficient speed range. I'm quite happy to add an extra
> fixed speed fan to the motor if needed.
>
> If anyone else can shed light on the T & R models I'd be grateful.
>
> Elsewhere, I have found (curiously) that the S,T & V are covered by one
> manual and another volume covers T, V & R. I'm assuming therefore that all
> four models are not that dissimilar.
>
> Regards
>
> Bob
>
>
Slight thread hijack here but ...
I've got a Startrite 352 (2 speed, single phase) that I'm trying to
decide whether to sell or fit a 3 phase motor + inverter to so it can be
used for metal and wood.
Any ideas what it's worth?
What's needed for a successful metal cutting bandsaw (I haven't used
one)? Are the blades different (forgive my ignorance)?

Dave

Posted by Bob Minchin on August 16, 2006, 5:10 pm
Please log in for more thread options

> Bob Minchin wrote:
> >>> I'm considering a secondhand upright bandsaw.
> >>> Startrite current models are out of my price range even secondhand
> >> and their
> >>> tables only seem to tilt to 20 degrees and I want 45.
> >>> Older machines which are nearer my price range have numbers like
> >> 18-s-10.
> >>> the first seems to be the throat size in inches, the next character
> >> can be
> >>> S,T,Ror V and I'm unsure what the last number means - tends to be 1
> >> or 10.
> >>> Can anyone tell me the difference between S,T,R and V models and
> >> what the
> >>> last digits mean. Do they all have tilting tables to 45degrees?
> >>>
> >>> TIA
> >>>
> >>> Bob
> >>>
> >>>
> >> Bob,
> >>
> >> I have a Startrite 18 V 10 and I must say I am very pleased with it.
> >> This model is 10 speeds which it achieves with a two speed gear box
> >> and 5 pulley grooves.I think the 10 in the model number is the maximum
> >> thickness of cut in inches (or at least the daylight between table and
> >> upper guide). Mine is fitted with the optional blade welder which I
> >> find invaluable. My only slight complaint is I could sometimes do with
> >> more throat size but then I suppose that machines all have their
> >> limitations! I think that the 18 S 10 is a 5 speed machine without
> >> the gear box. I believe that there are metal cutting and wood cutting
> >> (ie different speed ranges) of the 'S' models but for general workshop
> >> use I think that you need the 10 speed. I believe that the whole
> >> range is fitted with the tilting table. Mine is also fitted with the
> >> optional blower that puffs on the cut to keep a clear sight line,
> >> which is quite useful. It is only a small vane pump belt driven off
> >> the motor. I think that the whole range don't comply with modern
> >> safety regs so beware if you are using it commercially (you can for
> >> instance open the access door to the blade wheels without stopping
> >> the machine). There are several styles of blade guide including ones
> >> using roller bearings and even one that twists the blade through 45
> >> degrees for slicing bits apparently too large for the table. The book
> >> of words though says that the solid insert guides (a hardened block
> >> with a slit deep enough that the blade sits in with just the teeth
> >> protruding) is the most accurate for precision sawing.All in all
> >> though a very solid and simple machine that sees a lot of varied uses
> >> in my workshop. spares are still available from:
> >>
> >> http://www.machinespares.net/index.html
> >>
> >> If you are passing through Bromley by all means come and have a play
> >> with it.
> >>
> >> AWEM
> >>
> >>
> >
> > Hi Andrew,
> >
> > Thanks for your helpful reply.
> > In one aspect I rather hope you are incorrect as I'm considering a
18-S-1
> > which is for sale near me. I hope it will have more than a 1 inch
cutting
> > capability!!
> >
> > I do need the capability more for wood as well as some metal.(Dare I
mention
> > wood in this company??) So maybe a mixture of inverter drive and pulley
> > steps will give me sufficient speed range. I'm quite happy to add an
extra
> > fixed speed fan to the motor if needed.
> >
> > If anyone else can shed light on the T & R models I'd be grateful.
> >
> > Elsewhere, I have found (curiously) that the S,T & V are covered by one
> > manual and another volume covers T, V & R. I'm assuming therefore that
all
> > four models are not that dissimilar.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> Slight thread hijack here but ...
> I've got a Startrite 352 (2 speed, single phase) that I'm trying to
> decide whether to sell or fit a 3 phase motor + inverter to so it can be
> used for metal and wood.
> Any ideas what it's worth?
> What's needed for a successful metal cutting bandsaw (I haven't used
> one)? Are the blades different (forgive my ignorance)?
>
> Dave

Dave, I should not be encouraging you to hijack my thread but as you mention
wood, maybe its ok!

352s are making £400 or more on ebay recently but to my mind are let down by
only having 20 degree tilt on the table.
For sawing metal you possibly need to be getting the speed down to 60-100fpm
An inverter will help but maybe you could also fit in some extra pulley
steps to avoid overheating the motor at low rpm.

Blades are quite different in tooth form and pitch between wood and metal
although a metal cutting blade will cut wood (poorly) but not the other way
round.

regards

Bob



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