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Model Engineering in UK - Model engineering, metal crafts in UK
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Posted by Mike on February 26, 2008, 7:08 pm
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On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 20:47:36 +0000, Charles Ping
>And whilst she's still out put it in the dishwasher.
>Then run the dishwasher empty just to be sure...
Not a good idea. Don't ask me how I know that but I'll fill you in
on some of the details of an incident a few years ago :) Having
digested a few postings online by Americans regarding engine
degreasing in a dishwasher I thought I would give it a go, what could
possibly go wrong? Everything, and then it got even worse.
Admittedly I had a relatively clean engine but the result was a filthy
dishwasher that stunk the whole house with engine oil smells for two
terrifying weeks, repeated empty washes just with detergent did
nothing other than spread the stink - the only thing that eventually
cleaned it was a wipe on wipe off of clean water soluble Jizer on all
the manky grey oil stained baskets, half a dozen hot empty washes, and
a couple of washes with some very fragrant washing machine fabric
conditioner.
It would have been quicker, and significantly easier to go by push
bike 30 miles to a friendly engine conditioner, cycle back home and
repeat the same exercise a week later when all the bits had been
properly degreased.
If it were my personal dishwasher, in my workshop and it were never to
see crockery again it probably wouldn't have been a problem - that it
was at the future in-laws, in their kitchen that cost 30 grand while
me and the future missus were "bed testing the in-laws marital bed"
drinking all their booze by inviting all our mates round for a party,
emptying their freezer, and abusing their kitchen appliances (see
above) all in all made it quite hairy. The final successful
dishwasher clean was achieved with a few hours to spare before they
returned. The future MIL just commented that the dishwasher looked
very clean.
I aged ten years that fortnight, 9 years and 351 days were due to the
dishwasher incident :)
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Posted by jlh45 on February 27, 2008, 6:43 am
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The way I have prepared motorcycle crankcases for TIG welding is to
clean them as much as I can with a degreaser and then have them vapour
blasted.
Vapour blasting cleans without damaging any surfaces and it cleans into
cracks.
I had a crack in a crankcase half which was not visible to the naked
eye but leaked oil - that case was vapour blasted and successfully
welded by a welder who won't do work on 'unclean' castings as he can't
guarantee the result.
By the way Mike, you are meant empty the sump and degrease the castings
before they go in the diswasher for the final wash!!!
--
jlh45
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jlh45's Profile: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=119557
View this thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=823677
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Posted by Mike on February 28, 2008, 11:37 am
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>
>The way I have prepared motorcycle crankcases for TIG welding is to
>clean them as much as I can with a degreaser and then have them vapour
>blasted.
>
>Vapour blasting cleans without damaging any surfaces and it cleans into
>cracks.
>
>I had a crack in a crankcase half which was not visible to the naked
>eye but leaked oil - that case was vapour blasted and successfully
>welded by a welder who won't do work on 'unclean' castings as he can't
>guarantee the result.
Vapour blasting is only of use on the external surfaces of an engine
casting, attempting to clean internal surfaces results in a nice shiny
casting ideal for welding.......followed by engine failure as the
blasting particles trapped in the casting are released into the oil
over the next few days/weeks/months as it goes through a few heat
cycles clagging up the oil filter and leading to the bypass opening
and hard abrasive particles ripping the crap out of the engine
internals.
It's as bad or even worse than bead blasting but the catchy name
'vapour blasting' seems to imply that all that is involved is a vapour
of some innocuous or less than innocuous chemical, not a slurry of
fine abrasive particles.
At the end of the day you can blame the environmentalists and the
politicians for all this mess as you can't escape the fact that the
last decent degreasers were banned more than a decade ago.
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Posted by dave sanderson on February 24, 2008, 2:20 pm
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Rob wrote:
> Hello
> I am about to replace the engine in my car, which requires me to shorten
> the engines sump
> I have chopped off the required amount and would like to know if anyone
> knows of a good safe method of throughly cleaning the alloy prior to
> it being TIG welded up
> I know a few others that have cut and shut alloy sumps and when they
> have had them TIG'd back up the cast has sweated out crud making the
> repairs a bit sketchy and some have found they have minor leaks..(not ideal)
>
> Some have had to use JB weld or similar epoxy's internally to try and
> fix the leaks, but I would rather spend a little more time doing prep
> work to give the TIG welder chap the best possible chance of making it
> seal first time, and make his life as easy as possible
>
> I did wonder about heating the cast alloy around the areas to be welded
> to see if it would pre-sweat out the crud, but someone mentioned that
> there /may/ be an obtainable acid dip suitable?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Regards
> Rob
Ensure SWMBO is out for AT LEAST the cycle time of the dishwasher,
preferably longer (so you dont get caught...)
clean as much of the oily crud off as you can, then place sump in
dishwasher
and run most intensive dishwasher cycle.
If you get caught I never suggested this ;)
Dave
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Posted by mark on February 24, 2008, 2:26 pm
Please log in for more thread options > Hello
> I am about to replace the engine in my car, which requires me to shorten
> the engines sump
> I have chopped off the required amount and would like to know if anyone
> =A0 knows of a good safe method of throughly cleaning the alloy prior to
> it being TIG welded up
> I know a few others that have cut and shut alloy sumps and when they
> have had them TIG'd back up the cast has sweated out crud making the
> repairs a bit sketchy and some have found they have minor leaks..(not idea=
l)
>
> Some have had to use JB weld or similar epoxy's internally to try and
> fix the leaks, but I would rather spend a little more time doing prep
> work to give the TIG welder chap the best possible chance of making it
> seal first time, and make his life as easy as possible
>
> I did wonder about heating the cast alloy around the areas to be welded
> to see if it would pre-sweat out the crud, but someone mentioned that
> there /may/ be an obtainable acid dip suitable?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Regards
> Rob
use paint stripper and power wash
only use methanol type paint stripper, should say on the label
methanol or methylene-dichloride
other paint strippers contain caustic ...that corrodes and turns alloy
black
this is my sump after the treatment
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/aboard_epsilon/rover%20420/sumpclean1=
.jpg
all the best.mark
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>Then run the dishwasher empty just to be sure...