Cleaning cast alloy angine sump, pre TIG repair

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Cleaning cast alloy angine sump, pre TIG repair Rob 02-24-2008
Posted by Rob on February 24, 2008, 2:46 pm
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Thanks to all suggestions so far

I did use "the tool" (wire brush in drill) to get the outside clean
enough to bring it into the house
It has been through the dishwasher a couple of times today on the
highest setting denoted by pictures of saucepans
think the missus was actually a bit surprised to see that I remembered
how to operate it!
-she had to assist me last time when I put the rocker cover through it :-)

Unfortunately I don't think we have a pan large enough to submerge the
sump, as I could possibly get away with it on shopping day (I get a
whole day to myself to make a mess, and usually manage to get it cleared
up before SWMBO returns)
I may be able to fold/MIG weld some steel sheet together to make a
makeshift "hot tub", definately an avenue worth investigating

I do have some Nitromorse, and will check the label, but will it get
into the pores? as I believe that the problem that it sweats the
unweldable stuff out when being welded

Regards
Rob




Posted by Rob on February 24, 2008, 4:40 pm
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Can I just clarify for the washing powder solution?
Not necessarily after a direct product brand name , but more of a hint
as to what you used

Surely not one containing Sodium Carbonate (Na2CO3)AKA cheapo Soda
Crystals? as a bit of a search shows it would be bad to use on aluminum

perhaps in this case it would be OK as a weak solution? as leeching out
the crud is higher priority than say it "discolouring" bearing in mind
its an engine sump and anyone unlucky enough see it close up will have
bigger stuff going on

Perhaps a few dishwasher tablets crushed up and dissolved?
not sure what they actually contain as the packaging on ours is very
vague as to the ingredients

or are we talking about clothes washing powder? (again all the packaging
here is suitably vague as to the ingredients)

Regards
Rob




Posted by mark on February 24, 2008, 4:47 pm
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> Can I just clarify for the washing powder solution?
> Not necessarily after a direct product brand name , but more of a hint
> as to what you used
>
> Surely not one containing Sodium Carbonate (Na2CO3)AKA cheapo Soda
> Crystals? as a bit of a search shows it would be bad to use on aluminum
>
> perhaps in this case it would be OK as a weak solution? as leeching out
> the crud is higher priority than say it "discolouring" bearing in mind
> its an engine sump and anyone unlucky enough see it close up will have
> bigger stuff going on
>
> Perhaps a few dishwasher tablets crushed up and dissolved?
> not sure what they actually contain as the packaging on ours is very
> vague as to the ingredients
>
> or are we talking about clothes washing powder? (again all the packaging
> =A0 here is suitably vague as to the ingredients)
>
> Regards
> Rob

yeah washing powder is quite good

use boiling hot water out of the kettle

and biological automatic washing powder ...
use a whole giant box of the stuff .aldi sell good stuff that is half
the price of anywhere else.less than =A33 ...use.roughly half and half
with water .

if you could keep it boiling with a camping stove ....do it ..
keep it going for at least 30 Min's

but use the paint stripper first ...the paint stripper will get rid
of some things the washing powder wont ....and vice versa

all the best...mark

Posted by Peter Fairbrother on February 24, 2008, 4:41 pm
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Rob wrote:
> Thanks to all suggestions so far
>
> I did use "the tool" (wire brush in drill) to get the outside clean
> enough to bring it into the house
> It has been through the dishwasher a couple of times today on the
> highest setting denoted by pictures of saucepans
> think the missus was actually a bit surprised to see that I remembered
> how to operate it!
> -she had to assist me last time when I put the rocker cover through it :-)
>
> Unfortunately I don't think we have a pan large enough to submerge the
> sump, as I could possibly get away with it on shopping day (I get a
> whole day to myself to make a mess, and usually manage to get it cleared
> up before SWMBO returns)
> I may be able to fold/MIG weld some steel sheet together to make a
> makeshift "hot tub", definately an avenue worth investigating
>
> I do have some Nitromorse, and will check the label, but will it get
> into the pores? as I believe that the problem that it sweats the
> unweldable stuff out when being welded

Hot water, or a dishwasher, will close up the pores - which is probably
not what you want.

A last resort might be to strip the oxide layer. 30 minutes in cold 5%
hydrochloric acid (aka spirits if salts), then one to three minutes in
3-5% caustic soda at 70 C. Rinse immediately in cold water.

Use an old paintbrush to loosen dirt etc, and take it out if it seems to
be dissolving!!

There are better methods, but they are expensive, more complex and use
really nasty chemicals.

I don't know about nitromors, it isn't methylene chloride though.


-- Peter Fairbrother

Posted by Richard Edwards on February 24, 2008, 5:20 pm
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On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 21:41:05 +0000, Peter Fairbrother


>I don't know about nitromors, it isn't methylene chloride though.
>
>
>-- Peter Fairbrother
"All Purpose Nitromors" "Contains Dichloromethane and Methanol"
according to the tin in my garage.

--

Richard

Email address is valid but remove burrs before sending!

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