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Model Engineering in UK - Model engineering, metal crafts in UK
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Posted by on October 11, 2006, 6:57 pm
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Bought a 50 year old two wheeled bandsaw.
I want to cut aluminium upto maybe 2" thick, that was the specific use
i bought it for, but if it will cut steel I am sure that will be
usefull.
The saw seems reasonably rigid and nice and simple.
I have no idea of suitable speeds. it's got 1425,3.25;6.375;12.125 ,
motor and pulleys.
giving somewhere around 200 ftps.
It is only single speed and I would like the option of more speeds,
seem the most easiest thing would be a cheap inverter and a three phase
motor?
The blade guides are nicely made solid blocks, made by previous owner.
Parts of the original bearing guides is still in place I need to pull
it apart to see how it was. I don't spose someone could photgraph a
good guide setup so I can see what they are like
how do the guides ride on the blade, I take it they are against the
blade but not touching the raked part of the teeth?
What are best sort of blades to use on ali?
-------dittoooooo---------------------------------- steel?
Anyone made a blade welder, I have used one on a big old bandsaw about
thirty years ago. wonder if an attachement for a spotwelder would work?
Is any lubricant coolant on the blade ever used?
I cleaned a load of wood shavings off the rubber on the wheel, I was
wondering if a fan or brush to try and keep the blade clean would be
wise?
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Posted by Trevor Jones on October 11, 2006, 7:32 pm
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richard@integerspin.co.uk wrote:
> Bought a 50 year old two wheeled bandsaw.
> I want to cut aluminium upto maybe 2" thick, that was the specific use
> i bought it for, but if it will cut steel I am sure that will be
> usefull.
>
> The saw seems reasonably rigid and nice and simple.
>
> I have no idea of suitable speeds. it's got 1425,3.25;6.375;12.125 ,
> motor and pulleys.
> giving somewhere around 200 ftps.
>
> It is only single speed and I would like the option of more speeds,
> seem the most easiest thing would be a cheap inverter and a three phase
> motor?
>
> The blade guides are nicely made solid blocks, made by previous owner.
> Parts of the original bearing guides is still in place I need to pull
> it apart to see how it was. I don't spose someone could photgraph a
> good guide setup so I can see what they are like
>
> how do the guides ride on the blade, I take it they are against the
> blade but not touching the raked part of the teeth?
>
> What are best sort of blades to use on ali?
> -------dittoooooo---------------------------------- steel?
>
> Anyone made a blade welder, I have used one on a big old bandsaw about
> thirty years ago. wonder if an attachement for a spotwelder would work?
>
> Is any lubricant coolant on the blade ever used?
>
> I cleaned a load of wood shavings off the rubber on the wheel, I was
> wondering if a fan or brush to try and keep the blade clean would be
> wise?
>
For thick aluminum, I use coarse wood saw blades, running fairly fast.
At or beyond the speed for wood. Takes minimal pressure and cuts
quickly. For that matter, I use the same 3 tpi or so blades for thin
aluminum too. Use some sense when feeding the stock into the blade and
you get good results, as there are a lot of teeth going by at any given
moment.
I have tried wax sticks but found that they just made the saw harder
to get clean.
For steel or iron you want MUCH slower. 65 to 100 feet per minute of
blade speed seems to work pretty well, and try to keep 3 teeth in the
cut. You will need a blade built for cutting steel.
We have coolant on one of the vertical type saws at work. Only seen it
used once. Messy. More common on the horizontal saws, pretty normal,
actually.
Cheers
Trevor Jones
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Posted by on October 12, 2006, 4:02 pm
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Trevor Jones wrote:
> For thick aluminum, I use coarse wood saw blades, running fairly fast.
> At or beyond the speed for wood. Takes minimal pressure and cuts
> quickly. For that matter, I use the same 3 tpi or so blades for thin
> We have coolant on one of the vertical type saws at work. Only seen it
> used once. Messy. More common on the horizontal saws, pretty normal,
I tried it on inch thick ali and the wood blade on it goes throu the
ali like a hot knife through butter.. The aluminium I cut through was a
scrap of 2*1 and by the time I had gone through 2" it was too hot to
hold. Reason I asked about coolant was I couldn't see how you could use
it, well without it ending up all over the place.
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> I want to cut aluminium upto maybe 2" thick, that was the specific use
> i bought it for, but if it will cut steel I am sure that will be
> usefull.
>
> The saw seems reasonably rigid and nice and simple.
>
> I have no idea of suitable speeds. it's got 1425,3.25;6.375;12.125 ,
> motor and pulleys.
> giving somewhere around 200 ftps.
>
> It is only single speed and I would like the option of more speeds,
> seem the most easiest thing would be a cheap inverter and a three phase
> motor?
>
> The blade guides are nicely made solid blocks, made by previous owner.
> Parts of the original bearing guides is still in place I need to pull
> it apart to see how it was. I don't spose someone could photgraph a
> good guide setup so I can see what they are like
>
> how do the guides ride on the blade, I take it they are against the
> blade but not touching the raked part of the teeth?
>
> What are best sort of blades to use on ali?
> -------dittoooooo---------------------------------- steel?
>
> Anyone made a blade welder, I have used one on a big old bandsaw about
> thirty years ago. wonder if an attachement for a spotwelder would work?
>
> Is any lubricant coolant on the blade ever used?
>
> I cleaned a load of wood shavings off the rubber on the wheel, I was
> wondering if a fan or brush to try and keep the blade clean would be
> wise?
>