|
Posted by on January 6, 2008, 1:22 pm
Please log in for more thread options
I need to make a special reamer, and any advice from the group would
be much appreciated.
I've been asked by a friend to ream the oilite bushes to size in the
rear suspension arms of a classic Mini Cooper. For those unfamiliar
with Minis, each rear suspension arm (cast iron) has two bearing
points about 6 inches apart. One is fitted with a needle roller, the
other with a thin wall bronze bush. A ground spindle fits the two
bearing. From memory the needle roller is roughly 15 mm diameter, and
the bronze bush about 20mm diameter. When the bearings and spindle are
replaced, it's necessary to ream the bronze bush to size. As I
understand it, the hand-operated factory tool has a long pilot which
fits the needle roller, with a reamer section on the other end.
Needless to say, this tool is VERY expensive, and purchase is out of
the question for one job.
Can anyone offer any suggestions or tips as to how I might go about
making a suitable reamer in my home workshop? I have reasonable
collection of machines and associated tooling (lathe, mill, T&C
grinder etc).
TIA
Mike
|
|
Posted by Peter A Forbes on January 6, 2008, 1:44 pm
Please log in for more thread options
On Sun, 6 Jan 2008 10:22:26 -0800 (PST), mike.crossfield@virgin.net wrote:
>I need to make a special reamer, and any advice from the group would
>be much appreciated.
>
>I've been asked by a friend to ream the oilite bushes to size in the
>rear suspension arms of a classic Mini Cooper. For those unfamiliar
>with Minis, each rear suspension arm (cast iron) has two bearing
>points about 6 inches apart. One is fitted with a needle roller, the
>other with a thin wall bronze bush. A ground spindle fits the two
>bearing. From memory the needle roller is roughly 15 mm diameter, and
>the bronze bush about 20mm diameter. When the bearings and spindle are
>replaced, it's necessary to ream the bronze bush to size. As I
>understand it, the hand-operated factory tool has a long pilot which
>fits the needle roller, with a reamer section on the other end.
>Needless to say, this tool is VERY expensive, and purchase is out of
>the question for one job.
>
>Can anyone offer any suggestions or tips as to how I might go about
>making a suitable reamer in my home workshop? I have reasonable
>collection of machines and associated tooling (lathe, mill, T&C
>grinder etc).
>
>TIA
>
>Mike
Find someone who already had a decent set of adjustable reamers, and make up a
pilot to centre on the other bearing?
Easier to adapt an existing reamer than make one from scratch.
Where are you located? We have an adjustable set that covers that range of
sizes.
Peter
--
Peter & Rita Forbes
Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel
http://www.stationary-engine.co.uk
|
|
Posted by dave sanderson on January 6, 2008, 2:38 pm
Please log in for more thread options On 6 Jan, 18:22, mike.crossfi...@virgin.net wrote:
> I need to make a special reamer, and any advice from the group would
> be much appreciated.
>
> I've been asked by a friend to ream the oilite bushes to size in the
> rear suspension arms of a classic Mini Cooper. For those unfamiliar
> with Minis, each rear suspension arm (cast iron) has two bearing
> points about 6 inches apart. One is fitted with a needle roller, the
> other with a thin wall bronze bush. A ground spindle fits the two
> bearing. From memory the needle roller is roughly 15 mm diameter, and
> the bronze bush about 20mm diameter. When the bearings and spindle are
> replaced, it's necessary to ream the bronze bush to size. As I
> understand it, the hand-operated factory tool has a long pilot which
> fits the needle roller, with a reamer section on the other end.
> Needless to say, this tool is VERY expensive, and purchase is out of
> the question for one job.
>
> Can anyone offer any suggestions or tips as to how I might go about
> making a suitable reamer in my home workshop? I have reasonable
> collection of machines and associated tooling (lathe, mill, T&C
> grinder etc).
>
> TIA
>
> Mike
Of the top of my head:
take spare (scrap) rear raius arm pivot. obtain a couple of sets of
power plane blade inserts. long thin carbide ones.
mill slots into radius arm pivot at appropriate place to take the
plane blades, probably 3 or more slots. turn arm down fractionally so
it has clearance in new bronze bush. fit plane blades into slots and
secure at correct diameter. possibly braze? (details left as an
exercise ;)
Dave
|
|
Posted by on January 6, 2008, 4:51 pm
Please log in for more thread options On Sun, 6 Jan 2008 10:22:26 -0800 (PST),
mike.crossfield@virgin.net wrote:
>I need to make a special reamer, and any advice from the group would
>be much appreciated.
>
>I've been asked by a friend to ream the oilite bushes to size in the
>rear suspension arms of a classic Mini Cooper. For those unfamiliar
>with Minis, each rear suspension arm (cast iron) has two bearing
>points about 6 inches apart. One is fitted with a needle roller, the
>other with a thin wall bronze bush. A ground spindle fits the two
>bearing. From memory the needle roller is roughly 15 mm diameter, and
>the bronze bush about 20mm diameter. When the bearings and spindle are
>replaced, it's necessary to ream the bronze bush to size. As I
>understand it, the hand-operated factory tool has a long pilot which
>fits the needle roller, with a reamer section on the other end.
>Needless to say, this tool is VERY expensive, and purchase is out of
>the question for one job.
>
>Can anyone offer any suggestions or tips as to how I might go about
>making a suitable reamer in my home workshop? I have reasonable
>collection of machines and associated tooling (lathe, mill, T&C
>grinder etc).
>
>
>
>Mike
For a one off application a D bit cutter should do
the job.
Start off with the correct diameter silver steel. Form
the pilot at the far end and machine a short flat at the required
reamer location. The flat should leave a D section a few thou
thicker than 1/2 diameter.
Most of the section between the pilot and the D
section should be a few thou less than the initial bore of the
installed bush but with an undercut just before the D section.
The undercut is needed to leave a clean starting
edge for the reamer action. File or grind a small clearance over
most of the forward edge of the undercut D so that there is
cutting clearance for the clockwise D bit edge.
Ideally the device`should be hardened and tempered,
but for one off use on bronze untreated silver steel should be
hard enough.
good luck
Jim
|
|
Posted by Tom on January 6, 2008, 10:49 pm
Please log in for more thread options mike.crossfield@virgin.net wrote:
> I need to make a special reamer, and any advice from the group would
> be much appreciated.
>
> I've been asked by a friend to ream the oilite bushes to size in the
> rear suspension arms of a classic Mini Cooper. For those unfamiliar
> with Minis, each rear suspension arm (cast iron) has two bearing
> points about 6 inches apart. One is fitted with a needle roller, the
> other with a thin wall bronze bush. A ground spindle fits the two
> bearing. From memory the needle roller is roughly 15 mm diameter, and
> the bronze bush about 20mm diameter. When the bearings and spindle are
> replaced, it's necessary to ream the bronze bush to size. As I
> understand it, the hand-operated factory tool has a long pilot which
> fits the needle roller, with a reamer section on the other end.
> Needless to say, this tool is VERY expensive, and purchase is out of
> the question for one job.
>
> Can anyone offer any suggestions or tips as to how I might go about
> making a suitable reamer in my home workshop? I have reasonable
> collection of machines and associated tooling (lathe, mill, T&C
> grinder etc).
>
> TIA
>
> Mike
>
>
The quickest and easiest method favoured by manufacturers with this
scenario is press a 15mm ball bearing through the bush. No pilot
required. Of course in production they would use a carbide ball due to
production numbers.
In this case, machining the head of an old pivot to size, with a nice big
polished radius, well lubricated and then pulled through by the nut will
do the job also. Maybe a better option, as one can incorporate any clearance
required by the sizing.
Before someone raises the spectre of closing the pores of the oilite
bush over, this has been the factory service advice for sizing the oil
pump drive oilite bushes in Mopar engines for decades.
Or they can visit:
http://www.ballomatic.com/process.htm
Tom
O & OE as regards the grammatical content of this post.
|
| Similar Threads | Posted | | 5/8" BSP reducer needed. | October 14, 2006, 11:50 am |
| Re: Man with Miller needed! Part too big for me to do | February 13, 2007, 6:30 pm |
| Clarkson collet needed | February 23, 2008, 12:43 pm |
| Help needed for a blind turner | May 5, 2008, 3:20 pm |
| Electric motor advice needed please | March 30, 2008, 3:35 pm |
| Milling Cutter Run-out - advice needed | September 22, 2006, 7:38 am |
| 16DP lathe gears needed | August 22, 2006, 7:30 pm |
| Re: Making an air rifle | August 11, 2006, 8:52 pm |
| Making taps and dies | May 3, 2008, 1:41 pm |
| Making 14BA and smaller taps | January 13, 2008, 6:12 am |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
>be much appreciated.
>
>I've been asked by a friend to ream the oilite bushes to size in the
>rear suspension arms of a classic Mini Cooper. For those unfamiliar
>with Minis, each rear suspension arm (cast iron) has two bearing
>points about 6 inches apart. One is fitted with a needle roller, the
>other with a thin wall bronze bush. A ground spindle fits the two
>bearing. From memory the needle roller is roughly 15 mm diameter, and
>the bronze bush about 20mm diameter. When the bearings and spindle are
>replaced, it's necessary to ream the bronze bush to size. As I
>understand it, the hand-operated factory tool has a long pilot which
>fits the needle roller, with a reamer section on the other end.
>Needless to say, this tool is VERY expensive, and purchase is out of
>the question for one job.
>
>Can anyone offer any suggestions or tips as to how I might go about
>making a suitable reamer in my home workshop? I have reasonable
>collection of machines and associated tooling (lathe, mill, T&C
>grinder etc).
>
>TIA
>
>Mike