How do I...

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Subject Author Date
How do I... Steve W 09-30-2006
Posted by Steve W on September 30, 2006, 1:01 pm
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Set up a 60mm cube of HE30 aluminium in the four jaw so the a) the hole is
where I want it to be AND square with the front face?

The hole will be 50mm and I can set the face square with the DTI, but
getting the hole on centre at the same time is driving me nuts!

I need to leave a clearance between the back face of the cube and the front
face of the chuck so I don't hit the chuck with the boring bar and to allow
the chips to fall away.

First attempt was square but 0.5mm off which is not good enough. For
personal satisfaction I'd like to get better than 0.1mm and as close to bob
on as possible.

Thanks

Steve




Posted by Dave Baker on September 30, 2006, 1:20 pm
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> Set up a 60mm cube of HE30 aluminium in the four jaw so the a) the hole is
> where I want it to be AND square with the front face?
>
> The hole will be 50mm and I can set the face square with the DTI, but
> getting the hole on centre at the same time is driving me nuts!
>
> I need to leave a clearance between the back face of the cube and the
front
> face of the chuck so I don't hit the chuck with the boring bar and to
allow
> the chips to fall away.
>
> First attempt was square but 0.5mm off which is not good enough. For
> personal satisfaction I'd like to get better than 0.1mm and as close to
bob
> on as possible.

If the jaws are good and the cube is true then it should be held square
anyway regardless of how well it's centred. However, chuck it a few mm
further forward than you want it to end up. Set the dial gauge on the sides
of the cube and adjust until it's centred but still held fairly lightly.
What you're looking for is the lowest reading on the gauge on each face
which will be in the centre of each face as you swing the chuck. You do
opposite sides in turn until it's central in one plane and then the other.
Should only take a minute or two with practice.

Then bring the tailstock ram up and press the cube back a couple of mm
against the jaw pressure. This should true the front face of the cube to the
face of the ram which ought to be dead square. Then nip each jaw in turn a
fraction at a time working round and round the chuck until it's held tight.
Then a final check that it hasn't moved and you should be good to go.

If you're still having problems then it's likely the cube isn't quite true
and will need a skim across the front and rear face anyway. Check this out
is against an angle plate or with the cube on a machine bed and run the DTI
across each top face in turn. In fact with a good 4 jaw chuck there's
nothing much you can do to alter the squareness of the front face once the
jaws are tight so any major error tells you the cube is distorted.
--
Dave Baker
www.pumaracing.co.uk
"Why," said Ford squatting down beside him and shivering, "are you lying
face down in the dust?"
"It's a very effective way of being wretched," said Marvin.



Posted by Steve W on October 1, 2006, 12:11 pm
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>
>> Set up a 60mm cube of HE30 aluminium in the four jaw so the a) the hole
>> is
>> where I want it to be AND square with the front face?
>>
>> The hole will be 50mm and I can set the face square with the DTI, but
>> getting the hole on centre at the same time is driving me nuts!
>>
>> I need to leave a clearance between the back face of the cube and the
> front
>> face of the chuck so I don't hit the chuck with the boring bar and to
> allow
>> the chips to fall away.
>>
>> First attempt was square but 0.5mm off which is not good enough. For
>> personal satisfaction I'd like to get better than 0.1mm and as close to
> bob
>> on as possible.
>
> If the jaws are good and the cube is true then it should be held square
> anyway regardless of how well it's centred. However, chuck it a few mm
> further forward than you want it to end up. Set the dial gauge on the
> sides
> of the cube and adjust until it's centred but still held fairly lightly.
> What you're looking for is the lowest reading on the gauge on each face
> which will be in the centre of each face as you swing the chuck. You do
> opposite sides in turn until it's central in one plane and then the other.
> Should only take a minute or two with practice.
>
> Then bring the tailstock ram up and press the cube back a couple of mm
> against the jaw pressure. This should true the front face of the cube to
> the
> face of the ram which ought to be dead square. Then nip each jaw in turn a
> fraction at a time working round and round the chuck until it's held
> tight.
> Then a final check that it hasn't moved and you should be good to go.
>
> If you're still having problems then it's likely the cube isn't quite true
> and will need a skim across the front and rear face anyway. Check this out
> is against an angle plate or with the cube on a machine bed and run the
> DTI
> across each top face in turn. In fact with a good 4 jaw chuck there's
> nothing much you can do to alter the squareness of the front face once the
> jaws are tight so any major error tells you the cube is distorted.
> --
> Dave Baker
> www.pumaracing.co.uk
> "Why," said Ford squatting down beside him and shivering, "are you lying
> face down in the dust?"
> "It's a very effective way of being wretched," said Marvin.
>
>

Thanks guys, I'll go back and have another play

Steve



Posted by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Nick_M=FCller?= on September 30, 2006, 2:35 pm
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Steve W <steve> wrote:

> Set up a 60mm cube of HE30 aluminium in the four jaw so the a) the hole is
> where I want it to be AND square with the front face?

Put some slabs (the ones used in vices) between chuck and work, adjust
and pull them out _before_ switching on the lathe. :-)


Nick
--
The modular DRO
<http://www.yadro.de>
Engine models
<http://www.motor-manufaktur.de>

Posted by Mark Rand on September 30, 2006, 3:08 pm
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On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 18:01:22 +0100, "Steve W" <steve> wrote:

>Set up a 60mm cube of HE30 aluminium in the four jaw so the a) the hole is
>where I want it to be AND square with the front face?
>
>The hole will be 50mm and I can set the face square with the DTI, but
>getting the hole on centre at the same time is driving me nuts!
>
>I need to leave a clearance between the back face of the cube and the front
>face of the chuck so I don't hit the chuck with the boring bar and to allow
>the chips to fall away.
>
>First attempt was square but 0.5mm off which is not good enough. For
>personal satisfaction I'd like to get better than 0.1mm and as close to bob
>on as possible.
>
>Thanks
>
>Steve
>
>


To amplify on Dave's post... Mount the DTI on the cross slide of the lathe.
This means that you can get a reading on one face of the cube, move the saddle
to the right, rotate the chuck half a turn and move the saddle left again to
get a comparative reading on that face of the cube.


Mark Rand
RTFM


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