How should I make this?

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Subject Author Date
How should I make this? Ian 03-29-2008
Posted by John Stevenson on March 29, 2008, 6:53 pm
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On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 22:33:06 -0000, "Ian Phillips"

>>>
>>> I have thought of making an expanding mandrel which is somehow activated
>>> through the headstock spindle but it seems overcomplicated
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance for any suggestions
>>>
>>> Ian Phillips
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> llllllll
>>> llllllll
>>> lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll
>>> llll
>>> llll
>>> llll
>>> llll
>>> llll
>>> lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll
>>> llllllll
>>> llllllll
>>
>> Can you make soft jaws?
>>
>> Do the hole and that side of the flange.
>>
>> Flip it over and grip from the inside with the soft jaws; do the outside.
>
>
>
>Soft jaws sounds a good idea but I don't have any.
>
>Ian
>
Do you have any old jaws for your chuck ?
If so you can weld some lumps of mild steel on and machine those down.

Sounds horrible and it is <g> but it works.
--
Regards,

John Stevenson
Nottingham, England.

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Posted by Mark Rand on March 29, 2008, 8:18 pm
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On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 22:53:34 GMT, John Stevenson

>On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 22:33:06 -0000, "Ian Phillips"
>
>>>>
>>>> I have thought of making an expanding mandrel which is somehow activated
>>>> through the headstock spindle but it seems overcomplicated
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks in advance for any suggestions
>>>>
>>>> Ian Phillips
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> llllllll
>>>> llllllll
>>>> lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll
>>>> llll
>>>> llll
>>>> llll
>>>> llll
>>>> llll
>>>> lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll
>>>> llllllll
>>>> llllllll
>>>
>>> Can you make soft jaws?
>>>
>>> Do the hole and that side of the flange.
>>>
>>> Flip it over and grip from the inside with the soft jaws; do the outside.
>>
>>
>>
>>Soft jaws sounds a good idea but I don't have any.
>>
>>Ian
>>
>Do you have any old jaws for your chuck ?
>If so you can weld some lumps of mild steel on and machine those down.
>
>Sounds horrible and it is <g> but it works.


Why not do _all_ the turning and boring with the over-length stock held in the
chuck. Then part off 20 thou over length. clamp the parted off part to a
faceplate using the top-hat rim and face the parted off end to length. You
waste 1/2" of stock per part. Use it to make washers with :-)


This does not seem to be a complicated part.

I would cheat and do the last operation on the surface grinder or shaper, but
turning will work just as well.

Posted by Ian Phillips on March 30, 2008, 3:02 pm
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>

> Why not do _all_ the turning and boring with the over-length stock held in
> the
> chuck. Then part off 20 thou over length. clamp the parted off part to a
> faceplate using the top-hat rim and face the parted off end to length. You
> waste 1/2" of stock per part. Use it to make washers with :-)
>
>
> This does not seem to be a complicated part.
>
> I would cheat and do the last operation on the surface grinder or shaper,
> but
> turning will work just as well.

Not too bothered about starting with a longer piece of bar (more like an
inch for chucking and parting) but the actual parting off would not be too
easy on an AUD with 50 diameter stainless.

Ian



Posted by Mark Rand on March 30, 2008, 3:54 pm
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wrote:

>
>>
>
>> Why not do _all_ the turning and boring with the over-length stock held in
>> the
>> chuck. Then part off 20 thou over length. clamp the parted off part to a
>> faceplate using the top-hat rim and face the parted off end to length. You
>> waste 1/2" of stock per part. Use it to make washers with :-)
>>
>>
>> This does not seem to be a complicated part.
>>
>> I would cheat and do the last operation on the surface grinder or shaper,
>> but
>> turning will work just as well.
>
>Not too bothered about starting with a longer piece of bar (more like an
>inch for chucking and parting) but the actual parting off would not be too
>easy on an AUD with 50 diameter stainless.
>
>Ian
>


If I can manage 95mm EN24T on an ML7, then you can manage 50mm 316 or 303 on
an AUD!

Carbide insert parting tools make a big difference with awkward metals.

Of course, one could always relegate the parting to a bandsaw or power
hacksaw. In desperation, if the parting off was too great a step, would be to
turn the entire waste part into swarf with a facing tool!


Mark Rand
RTFM

Posted by Dave Baker on March 30, 2008, 8:45 am
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> Soft jaws sounds a good idea but I don't have any.

They're only about £20 for common chucks and well worth having. If you can
weld you can make them by grinding down an old set of jaws and tacking lumps
of mild steel on. You can hold on as little as 1mm of depth with a freshly
turned set of soft jaws. I use mine occasionally for making thin washers.

A pro would do your job in two ops by holding the blanks with a few mm
sticking out of the chuck, boring the i/d and turning the o/d of the flange
part then holding on the flange with soft jaws and turning the rest. Total
machining time on a cnc lathe would be about 5 minutes in a nasty material
like stainless. You'd use a big F/O carbide insert drill with through
coolant to rough the hole out in a single pass, finish with a boring bar,
fit the soft jaws, turn the part round and turn the o/d.

On a manual lathe with conventional tooling figure on several hours per part
and lots of burnt out tooling. Stainless is a pig. You'll probably start
trying to drill the bore with successively bigger HSS drills just to get
something you can get a boring bar into, shag them all and wish you'd never
started the job.
--
Dave Baker
Puma Race Engines



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