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Posted by Cheshire Steve on April 23, 2008, 4:04 am
Please log in for more thread options > Cheshire Steve wrote:
>
> >>Steve,
> >>Mark is correct that the manual is in the files section
ofhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/centec_milling_machines/
> >>Unfortunately the site is not very busy but there is someone else
> >>there who has had raising blocks made. I think they have all sold but he
> >>may do another run. They were MUCH cheaper than the ones on the other
> >>site mentioned.
> >>I have had my 2A for about five years but have yet to power it up as
> >>I still have not finished building my workshop. Somebody else wants the
> >>house finished first!
> >>The 1" horizontal arbour was actually made by the PO. He did not
> >>include a key as he thought it better the cutter spun on the arbour
> >>rather than damage the gears if the cutter were to jam. It looks to be a
> >>straightforward turning job apart from milling the flats for the
> >>spanner.
>
> >>Roy
> >>2A CB988
>
> >>--
> >>elj221c
> >>------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>elj221c's Profile:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=37570
> >>View this thread:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=853083
>
> > Five years ! I have only had mine a day and want to get it going. That
> > is true patience :-)
>
> > I have applied to the Yahoo group - though it took me four attempts to
> > enter a correct decoding of the distorted wording that is the anti-
> > spammer protection. Hopefully that will answer my questions.
>
> > I thought 8 inches between the quill and the table would be good
> > enough to start, but I can see how that gets rapidly eaten up. Two
> > inches for the ER25 and then at least another inch for the cutter, but
> > that still leaves 5 inches. If I need a really big gap then I can mill
> > in the lathe. Just so long as I don't need a big traverse and a large
> > gap at the same time. Only 6 5/8 inches for the horizontal spindle may
> > be a bit more of a problem, but then I am making small items right
> > now.
>
> > It will do for now.
>
> > Steve
>
> I have a 2A that gets a little use. It came with the "good" vertical
> head, and power feed (re-motored to run on our 110 volts) as well as a
> single phase motor. It has the metal stand, and I still have the
> switches and contactors for 3 phase use, buried in the base.
>
> I thought I paid too much for it, but, for now, would not consider
> replacing it, unless something much nicer came down the pipe.
>
> The headspace goes fast! You start looking at all the tooling with an
> eye to picking the shortest one.
>
> It pretty much has the same envelope, as a Sherline mill, but it was
> made in a time when iron was fairly inexpensive, and these mills were
> built to an indstrial standard, more than a hobby one.
>
> I have made a few end mill holders from drawbar thread equipped drill
> shank adapters and blank end MT2 arbors.
>
> Usefull enough a tool to keep in the basement, where a larger machine
> would not fit very well.
>
> I figure a riser block is in the future for the 2A, though. A couple
> extra inches of headspace will allow us of a proper vise, rather than
> the low profile drill press vise that lives there now.
>
> So far the inability to come up with a vise I like, that is an
> appropriate size, has been my biggest beef with it. Small worries indeed!
>
> Cheers
> Trevor Jones
Thanks Trevor,
It seems a slightly odd combination of industrial strength castings
and modest table size, but no complaints there. I think of it more
like a hobby sized machine made to industrial standards.
What oil do you use in the box and vertical head ?
Steve
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> Mark is correct that the manual is in the files section ofhttp://groups.ya=