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Model Engineering in UK - Model engineering, metal crafts in UK
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Posted by David Littlewood on September 5, 2008, 11:31 am
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In article
jontom_1uk@hotmail.com writes
>My cheap "forged steel shaft" claw hammer decided to break yesterday
>when trying to remove a smallish :-) nail. It left me with a
>"cushioned grip" handle which I thought I might use to make a lead
>"dead blow" hammer. Is it worthwhile these days or do those plastic
>and lead shot things you can get for tuppence work better. I currently
>use a Thor Copper/Hide mallet but often could do with something a
>little heavier. So worth the effort to make or just dig in the pocket?
>
Keith,
I have a Thor dead blow hammer, used it for many years. The rubber side
is just perfect for assembling/disassembling veneered chipboard items
and the like; the plastic side is more useful to give a really hard
knock when surface damage is not important, or won't happen. Whether the
dead blow feature is helpful is harder to judge, it may work pretty much
the same if it were solid, but it certainly doesn't bounce around much,
if at all.
David
--
David Littlewood
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Posted by on September 6, 2008, 6:25 pm
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> In article
> jontom_...@hotmail.com writes>My cheap "forged steel shaft" claw hammer
decided to break yesterday
> >when trying to remove a smallish :-) nail. It left me with a
> >"cushioned grip" handle which I thought I might use to make a lead
> >"dead blow" hammer. Is it worthwhile these days or do those plastic
> >and lead shot things you can get for tuppence work better. I currently
> >use a Thor Copper/Hide mallet but often could do with something a
> >little heavier. So worth the effort to make or just dig in the pocket?
>
> Keith,
>
> I have a Thor dead blow hammer, used it for many years. The rubber side
> is just perfect for assembling/disassembling veneered chipboard items
> and the like; the plastic side is more useful to give a really hard
> knock when surface damage is not important, or won't happen. Whether the
> dead blow feature is helpful is harder to judge, it may work pretty much
> the same if it were solid, but it certainly doesn't bounce around much,
> if at all.
>
> David
> --
> David Littlewood
David Hi,
Thanks for your comment, extremely useful to me. The rubber/plastic
dead blow seems to be just the thing as some of the "rough" castings I
mentioned are non-ferrous and while the copper end of the normal hide
face is a little hard particularly as it work hardens after a little
use, the hide face is too easily damaged and tends to "pick up"
metalic bits which then mark the surface. Does the rubber face tend to
cut up at all or pick up swarf etc? I'm also taken by the ability to
clout veneered chipboard without causing damage, if it can handle that
I guess it could also handle varnished softwood, ply or soft aluminium
sheet. At the moment I use some small plastic faced hammers but tend
to change the inserts often as if marked they will damage a soft
surface even with a very light tap. I'll have a look out for a Thor
"dead blow" and give it a go. I will of course promise myself to keep
it specifically for the softer work but I wonder how long that will
last as it seems it could do at least two jobs for me :-)
Thanks again
Keith
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Posted by David Littlewood on September 7, 2008, 11:25 am
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In article
jontom_1uk@hotmail.com writes
>
>David Hi,
>
>Thanks for your comment, extremely useful to me. The rubber/plastic
>dead blow seems to be just the thing as some of the "rough" castings I
>mentioned are non-ferrous and while the copper end of the normal hide
>face is a little hard particularly as it work hardens after a little
>use, the hide face is too easily damaged and tends to "pick up"
>metalic bits which then mark the surface. Does the rubber face tend to
>cut up at all or pick up swarf etc? I'm also taken by the ability to
>clout veneered chipboard without causing damage, if it can handle that
>I guess it could also handle varnished softwood, ply or soft aluminium
>sheet. At the moment I use some small plastic faced hammers but tend
>to change the inserts often as if marked they will damage a soft
>surface even with a very light tap. I'll have a look out for a Thor
>"dead blow" and give it a go. I will of course promise myself to keep
>it specifically for the softer work but I wonder how long that will
>last as it seems it could do at least two jobs for me :-)
>
Keith,
I've had mine for about 25 years and it's still on the original faces.
That is largely because I have only used it on wood or plastics. It
would handle castings just fine, but I don't imagine it would last quite
so long! So, I can't answer your question about the rubber face picking
up swarf, but my best guess is that it would pick up as you suspect.
David
--
David Littlewood
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Posted by on September 8, 2008, 4:50 am
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> In article
> jontom_...@hotmail.com writes
>
>
>
>
>
> >David Hi,
>
> >Thanks for your comment, extremely useful to me. The rubber/plastic
> >dead blow seems to be just the thing as some of the "rough" castings I
> >mentioned are non-ferrous and while the copper end of the normal hide
> >face is a little hard particularly as it work hardens after a little
> >use, the hide face is too easily damaged and tends to "pick up"
> >metalic bits which then mark the surface. Does the rubber face tend to
> >cut up at all or pick up swarf etc? I'm also taken by the ability to
> >clout veneered chipboard without causing damage, if it can handle that
> >I guess it could also handle varnished softwood, ply or soft aluminium
> >sheet. At the moment I use some small plastic faced hammers but tend
> >to change the inserts often as if marked they will damage a soft
> >surface even with a very light tap. I'll have a look out for a Thor
> >"dead blow" and give it a go. I will of course promise myself to keep
> >it specifically for the softer work but I wonder how long that will
> >last as it seems it could do at least two jobs for me :-)
>
> Keith,
>
> I've had mine for about 25 years and it's still on the original faces.
> That is largely because I have only used it on wood or plastics. It
> would handle castings just fine, but I don't imagine it would last quite
> so long! So, I can't answer your question about the rubber face picking
> up swarf, but my best guess is that it would pick up as you suspect.
>
> David
> --
> David Littlewood- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks David, as soon as I can get out to find one I will make the
investment.
Regards
Keith
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Posted by David Littlewood on September 8, 2008, 10:45 am
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In article
jontom_1uk@hotmail.com writes
>> In article
>> jontom_...@hotmail.com writes
>>
>>
>> I've had mine for about 25 years and it's still on the original faces.
>> That is largely because I have only used it on wood or plastics. It
>> would handle castings just fine, but I don't imagine it would last quite
>> so long! So, I can't answer your question about the rubber face picking
>> up swarf, but my best guess is that it would pick up as you suspect.
>>
>> David
>> --
>> David Littlewood- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>
>Thanks David, as soon as I can get out to find one I will make the
>investment.
>
Good luck, Keith; I can't even get into my workshop at present!
David
--
David Littlewood
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>when trying to remove a smallish :-) nail. It left me with a
>"cushioned grip" handle which I thought I might use to make a lead
>"dead blow" hammer. Is it worthwhile these days or do those plastic
>and lead shot things you can get for tuppence work better. I currently
>use a Thor Copper/Hide mallet but often could do with something a
>little heavier. So worth the effort to make or just dig in the pocket?
>