Need advice on rebuilding drill press

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Subject Author Date
Need advice on rebuilding drill press Tim Nash (aka TMN) 05-30-2008
Posted by bigegg on June 1, 2008, 11:14 am
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Tim Nash (aka TMN) wrote:

>>>> Can you please offer some advice on how to repair the hole through the
>>>> pinion shaft - it is very worn at the one end
>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/nashtm/2536205609/

>>
>> can you just make the hole bigger, and use a bigger pin?
>>
>> sorry - I meant to say that is pin that retains the handle on the
>> pinion shaft
>
> After re-examining the parts I think it was a taper pin that held the
> handle on the pinion shaft (although the one side is butchered it
> explains the size difference between the two sides). Don't know if I
> will get such a pin here.
>
> Tim

Does it taper enough so that if you file the hole smooth (possibly ream
out the hole to be circular again), the pin will fit, just further in?




--
BigEgg
Hack to size. Hammer to fit. Weld to join. Grind to shape. Paint to cover.
http://www.workshop-projects.com -
Plans and free books - *Now with forum*

Posted by Richard on June 1, 2008, 1:00 pm
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On Fri, 30 May 2008 22:55:57 -0700 (PDT), "Tim Nash (aka TMN)"

>> Tim Nash (aka TMN) wrote:
>>
>> > Hi
>>
>> > I bought this Rexon drill press at a reasonable price but it needs
>> > some serious work - I think it may well be the most abused drill
>> > press in the whole world !! ( but its a stout one so it is worth my
>> > while to rebuild it) Considering the shocking state of the table and
>> > handle section I cant understand how they did not break the elevating
>> > rack !!
>>
>> > The table is full of holes - what can be done ?
>> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/nashtm/2536205405
>>
>> back with a piece of copper, then fill holes with weld, grind to match
>> ( a cup grinder in the chuck works really well for this :.) )
>>
>> or fill with milliput for a quicker, untidier fix.
>>
>> > Also the table spigot is fast on the arm - don't think it was ever
>> > moved - how can I get it loose ?
>>
>> 3-in-one oil.
>> or heat it up.
>>
>>
>>
>> > Can you please offer some advice on how to repair the hole through the
>> > pinion shaft - it is very worn at the one end
>> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/nashtm/2536205609/
>>
>> weld it closed, rebore
>> or (again) milliput and rebore
>>
>> or: (since I'm not familiar with this drill)
>> can you just make the hole bigger, and use a bigger pin?
>>
>> --
>> BigEgg
>> Hack to size. Hammer to fit. Weld to join. Grind to shape. Paint to
cover.http://www.workshop-projects.com-
>> Plans and free books - *Now with forum*
>
>or: (since I'm not familiar with this drill)
>can you just make the hole bigger, and use a bigger pin?
>
>sorry - I meant to say that is pin that retains the handle on the
>pinion shaft
Failing a bigger pin, could you not drill and ream a new hole 90deg
to the original in at least the shaft, possibly both the shaft and
handle? Taper-pin reamers are pretty easy to come by.

Richard

Posted by Tim Nash (aka TMN) on June 1, 2008, 2:33 pm
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> On Fri, 30 May 2008 22:55:57 -0700 (PDT), "Tim Nash (aka TMN)"
>
>
>
> >> Tim Nash (aka TMN) wrote:
>
> >> > Hi
>
> >> > I bought this Rexon drill press at a reasonable price but it needs
> >> > some serious work - I think it may well be the most abused drill
> >> > press in the whole world !! ( but its a stout one so it is worth my
> >> > while to rebuild it) Considering the shocking state of the table and
> >> > handle section I cant understand how they did not break the elevating
> >> > rack !!
>
> >> > The table is full of holes - what can be done ?
> >> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/nashtm/2536205405
>
> >> back with a piece of copper, then fill holes with weld, grind to match
> >> ( a cup grinder in the chuck works really well for this :.) )
>
> >> or fill with milliput for a quicker, untidier fix.
>
> >> > Also the table spigot is fast on the arm - don't think it was ever
> >> > moved - how can I get it loose ?
>
> >> 3-in-one oil.
> >> or heat it up.
>
> >> > Can you please offer some advice on how to repair the hole through the
> >> > pinion shaft - it is very worn at the one end
> >> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/nashtm/2536205609/
>
> >> weld it closed, rebore
> >> or (again) milliput and rebore
>
> >> or: (since I'm not familiar with this drill)
> >> can you just make the hole bigger, and use a bigger pin?
>
> >> --
> >> BigEgg
> >> Hack to size. Hammer to fit. Weld to join. Grind to shape. Paint to
cover.http://www.workshop-projects.com-
> >> Plans and free books - *Now with forum*
>
> >or: (since I'm not familiar with this drill)
> >can you just make the hole bigger, and use a bigger pin?
>
> >sorry - I meant to say that is pin that retains the handle on the
> >pinion shaft
>
> Failing a bigger pin, could you not drill and ream a new hole 90deg
> to the original in at least the shaft, possibly both the shaft and
> handle? Taper-pin reamers are pretty easy to come by.
>
> Richard


All things considered I think a top plate is the best option for me.

I hauled out my small taper reamers (imperial - I have never used
them, got them as part of complete lathe setup - coincidently from the
estate of a gentleman named Tom Gardner who wrote some articles for
ME) and the taper matches a 7/32 but the remaer comes out at quite
angle, not perpendicular to the shaft.

So I have deiced that I am not going to slavishly try get it back to
its original look - I am going to make a new handle assembly and forgo
the gruaduated collar ring that would necessitate me using the
original hole in the pinion shaft.

PS any body know how to get the pulley (aluminum) off the top of the
spindle ? I was wondering if I could knock the whole spindle and
pulley up from the bottom through the hole vacated by the quill ?

Tim

Posted by bigegg on June 1, 2008, 4:06 pm
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Tim Nash (aka TMN) wrote:

> PS any body know how to get the pulley (aluminum) off the top of the
> spindle ? I was wondering if I could knock the whole spindle and
> pulley up from the bottom through the hole vacated by the quill ?
>
> Tim

make or buy a gear puller - percussive maintenance tends to break
pulleys, especially the edges.


--
BigEgg
Hack to size. Hammer to fit. Weld to join. Grind to shape. Paint to cover.
http://www.workshop-projects.com -
Plans and free books - *Now with forum*

Posted by Tim Nash (aka TMN) on June 9, 2008, 8:32 am
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> Tim Nash (aka TMN) wrote:
>
> > PS any body know how to get the pulley (aluminum) off the top of the
> > spindle ? I was wondering if I could knock the whole spindle and
> > pulley up from the bottom through the hole vacated by the quill ?
>
> > Tim
>
> make or buy a gear puller - percussive maintenance tends to break
> pulleys, especially the edges.
>
> --
> BigEgg
> Hack to size. Hammer to fit. Weld to join. Grind to shape. Paint to
cover.http://www.workshop-projects.com-
> Plans and free books - *Now with forum*

I was really concerned about this part but it turned out to be dead
easy - I put my 3 arm puller over the pulley and turned up the
tension and used a heat gun to heat the pulley after a few minutes it
literly popped up.

Removing the table spigot from its bracket was a cinch (ha ha) - It
was so simple - use the cinch bolt in "reverse" to open the bracket a
fraction.

It is sometimes good to leave problems stew in your head for a while
and not just have at them!

Tim

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