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Model Engineering in UK - Model engineering, metal crafts in UK
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Posted by Christopher Tidy on February 2, 2008, 5:55 pm
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Duracell Bunny wrote:
> Mike H wrote:
>
>>
>>>
>>> I've had no trouble using this home made punch
>>>
>>> the bit on the front goes inside the roll pin so keeping in from
>>> distorting ..mushrooming etc.
>>>
>>> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/aboard_epsilon/rover%20420/DRIFT.jpg
>>>
>>>
>> Many thanks for that but by the time you get down to my sizes (1/16"
>> and 3.32") it is almost watch-making. I have had to make a sleeve to
>> stop the drift bending.
>>
>
> I find the punches bend if you apply repeated inadequate force, as
> opposed to one whack of the correct power. The smaller roll pins do tend
> to give me more strife than the larger ones 'cos I'm loathe to apply the
> required force to start them moving. I find a carefully used pneumatic
> hammer (yes, really!)reduces the amount of potential damage, with an
> appropriately shaped bit.
I think this might be because if you're not successful, you have to
strike more blows, and so there's more chance of striking the punch with
an off-axis blow, which could cause it to bend. There's also the fact
that if you're unsuccessful, you're going to get frustrated, and so
might not be so careful.
Best wishes,
Chris
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Posted by Trevor Jones on February 3, 2008, 11:47 am
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Christopher Tidy wrote:
> Duracell Bunny wrote:
>
>> Mike H wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I've had no trouble using this home made punch
>>>>
>>>> the bit on the front goes inside the roll pin so keeping in from
>>>> distorting ..mushrooming etc.
>>>>
>>>> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/aboard_epsilon/rover%20420/DRIFT.jpg
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Many thanks for that but by the time you get down to my sizes (1/16"
>>> and 3.32") it is almost watch-making. I have had to make a sleeve to
>>> stop the drift bending.
>>>
>>
>> I find the punches bend if you apply repeated inadequate force, as
>> opposed to one whack of the correct power. The smaller roll pins do
>> tend to give me more strife than the larger ones 'cos I'm loathe to
>> apply the required force to start them moving. I find a carefully used
>> pneumatic hammer (yes, really!)reduces the amount of potential damage,
>> with an appropriately shaped bit.
>
>
> I think this might be because if you're not successful, you have to
> strike more blows, and so there's more chance of striking the punch with
> an off-axis blow, which could cause it to bend. There's also the fact
> that if you're unsuccessful, you're going to get frustrated, and so
> might not be so careful.
>
> Best wishes,
>
> Chris
>
One of my frequent tasks is the removal and installation of small roll
pins.
If you are going to deal with small ones, frequently, spend the money
and buy a decent quality roll pin punch set.
They have a concaved end, with a nipple in the middle, purportedly to
keep the end of the pin from mushrooming. Sometimes it works out that
way, too.
I deal with a lot of munged up 1/16 inch size roll pins, an end up
drilling many out. A selection of small drills, and a decent drill motor
are a requirement, as is a light touch.
Driving roll pins with a 1/16" punch is a fast lesson in applying
hammer blows in a straight line with the punch and pin, else the punch
ends up much too short, or much too bent.
Cheers
Trevor Jones
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Posted by Don Young on February 3, 2008, 11:04 pm
Please log in for more thread options
> Christopher Tidy wrote:
>
>> Duracell Bunny wrote:
>>
>>> Mike H wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I've had no trouble using this home made punch
>>>>>
>>>>> the bit on the front goes inside the roll pin so keeping in from
>>>>> distorting ..mushrooming etc.
>>>>>
>>>>> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/aboard_epsilon/rover%20420/DRIFT.jpg
>>>>>
>>>> Many thanks for that but by the time you get down to my sizes (1/16"
>>>> and 3.32") it is almost watch-making. I have had to make a sleeve to
>>>> stop the drift bending.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I find the punches bend if you apply repeated inadequate force, as
>>> opposed to one whack of the correct power. The smaller roll pins do tend
>>> to give me more strife than the larger ones 'cos I'm loathe to apply the
>>> required force to start them moving. I find a carefully used pneumatic
>>> hammer (yes, really!)reduces the amount of potential damage, with an
>>> appropriately shaped bit.
>>
>>
>> I think this might be because if you're not successful, you have to
>> strike more blows, and so there's more chance of striking the punch with
>> an off-axis blow, which could cause it to bend. There's also the fact
>> that if you're unsuccessful, you're going to get frustrated, and so might
>> not be so careful.
>>
>> Best wishes,
>>
>> Chris
>>
> One of my frequent tasks is the removal and installation of small roll
> pins.
> If you are going to deal with small ones, frequently, spend the money and
> buy a decent quality roll pin punch set.
>
> They have a concaved end, with a nipple in the middle, purportedly to
> keep the end of the pin from mushrooming. Sometimes it works out that way,
> too.
>
> I deal with a lot of munged up 1/16 inch size roll pins, an end up
> drilling many out. A selection of small drills, and a decent drill motor
> are a requirement, as is a light touch.
>
> Driving roll pins with a 1/16" punch is a fast lesson in applying hammer
> blows in a straight line with the punch and pin, else the punch ends up
> much too short, or much too bent.
>
> Cheers
> Trevor Jones
>
This might be a good application for a slide hammer type device. In many
cases having the force directly in line makes a big difference.
Don Young (USA)
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