Removing a reluctant chuck from an ML7

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Subject Author Date
Removing a reluctant chuck from an ML7 Dragon 06-10-2008
Posted by Chris Edwards on June 11, 2008, 10:09 am
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On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 13:11:33 +0100, Peter Neill

>On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 00:22:38 +0100, "Dragon"
>
>>Following the saga of the broken back gears on an ML7, I'll admit using them
>>to remove chucks on mine.
>>After engaging back gear I put the chuck key in place and give it a whack
>>with my hand.
>>So far as I remember it's never needed anything more drastic.
>>However supposing that is not enough, is there a way of getting a chuck off
>>without risk to the back gears?
>>
>>Henry
>>
>
>I have a shortish length of wooden batten, about 10-12" long, that I
>grip in the chuck jaws, then spin the chuck backwards by hand so the
>batten strikes the bed.
>A couple of impacts and it usually came loose.
>
>I haven't had to do this for quite a while though, as since the first
>few times I now always make sure that both threads are clean and
>lightly oiled before a chuck goes on.
>
>Peter

and, if I remember rightly, that's the Myford recommended way, too. I
think it's in the handbook somewhere.
--

Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset) "....there *must* be an easier way!"


Posted by Peter on June 11, 2008, 10:57 am
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>>I have a shortish length of wooden batten, about 10-12" long, that I
>>grip in the chuck jaws, then spin the chuck backwards by hand so the
>>batten strikes the bed.
>>A couple of impacts and it usually came loose.
>>
>>I haven't had to do this for quite a while though, as since the first
>>few times I now always make sure that both threads are clean and
>>lightly oiled before a chuck goes on.
>>
>>Peter
>
> and, if I remember rightly, that's the Myford recommended way, too. I
> think it's in the handbook somewhere.

Yes, a bit of 2 x 1 (say 10" long) is very handy.
My 3-jaw usually gets stuck after a parting dig in 8-(

Peter


Posted by Dragon on June 11, 2008, 11:01 am
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> On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 13:11:33 +0100, Peter Neill
>
>>On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 00:22:38 +0100, "Dragon"
>>
>>>Following the saga of the broken back gears on an ML7, I'll admit using
>>>them
>>>to remove chucks on mine.
>>>After engaging back gear I put the chuck key in place and give it a whack
>>>with my hand.
>>>So far as I remember it's never needed anything more drastic.
>>>However supposing that is not enough, is there a way of getting a chuck
>>>off
>>>without risk to the back gears?
>>>
>>>Henry
>>>
>>
>>I have a shortish length of wooden batten, about 10-12" long, that I
>>grip in the chuck jaws, then spin the chuck backwards by hand so the
>>batten strikes the bed.
>>A couple of impacts and it usually came loose.
>>
>>I haven't had to do this for quite a while though, as since the first
>>few times I now always make sure that both threads are clean and
>>lightly oiled before a chuck goes on.
>>
>>Peter
>
> and, if I remember rightly, that's the Myford recommended way, too. I
> think it's in the handbook somewhere.
> --
>
> Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset) "....there *must* be an easier
> way!"

Interesting technique - must give it a try.
My lathe came with a green book called :-
ML7 LATHE
notes on
Operation
Installation
and
Maintenance
also
Pictorial Parts List
including Tri-leva
Speed Selector Lathes

No mention of removing chucks though fitting is covered and includes Peter's
technique of cleaning and oiling.

Henry



Posted by David Littlewood on June 11, 2008, 11:02 am
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>On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 00:22:38 +0100, "Dragon"
>
>>Following the saga of the broken back gears on an ML7, I'll admit using them
>>to remove chucks on mine.
>>After engaging back gear I put the chuck key in place and give it a whack
>>with my hand.
>>So far as I remember it's never needed anything more drastic.
>>However supposing that is not enough, is there a way of getting a chuck off
>>without risk to the back gears?
>>
>>Henry
>>
>
>I have a shortish length of wooden batten, about 10-12" long, that I
>grip in the chuck jaws, then spin the chuck backwards by hand so the
>batten strikes the bed.
>A couple of impacts and it usually came loose.
>
Worth mentioning - I'm sure you meant this but the OP may not have
understood - that to do this you turn the spindle backwards by pulling
the drive belt upwards. If you do it by grabbing and turning the chuck
it won't achieve anything.

I'm sure that turning with the drive belt would be less prone to slip
than a mandrel handle - I have problems getting mine tight enough to cut
a thread - and certainly it is a lot quicker.

David
--
David Littlewood

Posted by Dragon on June 13, 2008, 4:16 pm
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>>On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 00:22:38 +0100, "Dragon"
>>
>>>Following the saga of the broken back gears on an ML7, I'll admit using
>>>them
>>>to remove chucks on mine.
>>>After engaging back gear I put the chuck key in place and give it a whack
>>>with my hand.
>>>So far as I remember it's never needed anything more drastic.
>>>However supposing that is not enough, is there a way of getting a chuck
>>>off
>>>without risk to the back gears?
>>>
>>>Henry
>>>
>>
>>I have a shortish length of wooden batten, about 10-12" long, that I
>>grip in the chuck jaws, then spin the chuck backwards by hand so the
>>batten strikes the bed.
>>A couple of impacts and it usually came loose.
>>
> Worth mentioning - I'm sure you meant this but the OP may not have
> understood - that to do this you turn the spindle backwards by pulling the
> drive belt upwards. If you do it by grabbing and turning the chuck it
> won't achieve anything.
>
> I'm sure that turning with the drive belt would be less prone to slip than
> a mandrel handle - I have problems getting mine tight enough to cut a
> thread - and certainly it is a lot quicker.
>
> David
> --
> David Littlewood

Had little time to play in the workshop this week so a mandrel handle out of
the question so far.
Did find the time to try the wooden batten idea.
Both belts have guards which makes the motor to countershaft inaccessible
and the countershaft to mandrel awkward.
Tried by pulling the countershaft to mandrel belt upwards.
With the belts tensioned I could only move it slowly.
With the tension released there was no drive unless I pulled the belt
outwards and upwards.
Not enough room for me to get enough speed to make that work either.
Must be missing something so looking for enlightenment!

Henry



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