Rust in Workshop

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Subject Author Date
Rust in Workshop DAVE 04-09-2008
Posted by John Stevenson on April 10, 2008, 4:20 am
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At the expense of loosing space think about putting a domestic freezer
in the shop.
I had to put up with one in an unlined brick garage once and the rust
problem was reduced no end.
Just simple lubrication took care of the rest.

Remember for a freezer to work it has to give out heat and if it keeps
the dew point at bay then it's doing it's job.

Insulation is the only real answer.

.
--
Regards,

John Stevenson
Nottingham, England.

Visit the new Model Engineering adverts page at:-
http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk/

Posted by Brad. on April 10, 2008, 5:59 am
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> At the expense of loosing space think about putting a domestic freezer
> in the shop.
> I had to put up with one in an unlined brick garage once and the rust
> problem was reduced no end.
> Just simple lubrication took care of the rest.
>
> Remember for a freezer to work it has to give out heat and if it keeps
> the dew point at bay then it's doing it's job.
>
> Insulation is the only real answer.


Do you think that just insulating the roof with fibreglass and plasterboard
do the trick? (probably together with a dehumidifier?)
I can't line the walls as I can't afford to loose the space. Would 4"
breezeblocks be sufficient to avoid lining the walls?
Brad




Posted by on April 10, 2008, 7:55 am
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>
>
> > At the expense of loosing space think about putting a domestic freezer
> > in the shop.
> > I had to put up with one in an unlined brick garage once and the rust
> > problem was reduced no end.
> > Just simple lubrication took care of the rest.
>
> > Remember for a freezer to work it has to give out heat and if it keeps
> > the dew point at bay then it's doing it's job.
>
> > Insulation is the only real answer.
>
> Do you think that just insulating the roof with fibreglass and plasterboar=
d
> do the trick? (probably together with a dehumidifier?)
> =A0 I can't line the walls as I can't afford to loose the space. =A0Would =
4"
> breezeblocks be sufficient to avoid lining the walls?
> Brad

Brad/Dave?

You have me a bit confused with your "breezeblock" question. My
experience with 4" breezeblock single skin walls is no they are not
sufficient even when well sealed. However you don't need a great
thickness of insulation and in my first workshop (single block garage
10x20) the rust problem was mainly solved with a plastic membrane, 1"
of polystyrene sheet and an inner wall of 1/2" ply so the total
thinkness was less than 2" but it was very effective. The roof
definitely needs doing but remember to allow for air circulation above
the insulation or you will get condensation dripping from the roof.
Having some ventilation is also helpful as even just you working in
the shop will introduce enough moisture to create a problem.

Although I live less than a mile from the coast and park a small car
in there, I don't have a problem with rusting. A combination of some
gentle background heating (dry, when it is cold I use a small oil
filled electric radiator with a thermostatic control set low), a cheap
de-humidifier and oiling the "bright" bits of the machines with Nuto
32 or similar light machine oil keeps my stuff clean and bright. I
banished WD 40 from my workshop years ago and now only use it on lawn
mowers and things that don't really matter and only then to remove any
moisture on them before oiling them properly - it is a better cleaner
than it is a protective.

regards

Keith

Posted by skiprat on April 13, 2008, 8:09 am
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> You have me a bit confused with your "breezeblock" question. My
> experience with 4" breezeblock single skin walls is no they are not
> sufficient even when well sealed. However you don't need a great
> thickness of insulation and in my first workshop (single block garage
> 10x20) the rust problem was mainly solved with a plastic membrane, 1"
> of polystyrene sheet and an inner wall of 1/2" ply so the total
> thinkness was less than 2" but it was very effective. The roof
> definitely needs doing but remember to allow for air circulation above
> the insulation or you will get condensation dripping from the roof.
> Having some ventilation is also helpful as even just you working in
> the shop will introduce enough moisture to create a problem.

A very similar solution worked for me - fixed vertical battens to
wall, insulated gap created with rockwool. faced with polythene dpm
sheet and lined with chipboard. Similar approach for roof. Temperature
is remarkably stable summer and winter. Heat with convector heater
thermostated to 12-14C - it doesn't switch in very often even in
winter provided the door isn't left open. Had to wall off the steel up
and over door as that would negate insulating the rest. Non oiled
bright surfaces will develop a very thin patina of rust after a moist
winter - oiled surfaces don't rust at all.

Posted by Peter Neill on April 10, 2008, 2:02 pm
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wrote:

>
>> At the expense of loosing space think about putting a domestic freezer
>> in the shop.
>> I had to put up with one in an unlined brick garage once and the rust
>> problem was reduced no end.
>> Just simple lubrication took care of the rest.
>>
>> Remember for a freezer to work it has to give out heat and if it keeps
>> the dew point at bay then it's doing it's job.
>>
>> Insulation is the only real answer.
>
>
>Do you think that just insulating the roof with fibreglass and plasterboard
>do the trick? (probably together with a dehumidifier?)
> I can't line the walls as I can't afford to loose the space. Would 4"
>breezeblocks be sufficient to avoid lining the walls?
>Brad
>
>

What you need is a nice draughty workshop, with a bit of air movement
through there, and you'll have no problems. Can be a bit parky
beavering away there in the winter though.
Works for me anyway<g>.

Peter

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