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Posted by Vince on August 16, 2006, 9:36 am
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I am about to move my elliot Sturdimill 1250 to a new location - with 3
phase this time so I can actually use it!!! The mill weighs about 3 tons and
I was wondering how to mount it.
The manual says to bolt it down using rag bolts and then cement it in. Is
this still a good idea with modern practice?
One problem I have is the floor is coated in a lovely green substance that I
don't want to ruin too much. Would it be possible to put the mill on a very
thick piece of marine ply or rubber to absorb vibration before bolting down?
Also is it possible to drill the holes etc once the mill is in place and
epoxy the bolts?
HELP - doing it next week.
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Posted by Charles Ping on August 16, 2006, 10:50 am
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On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 13:36:23 GMT, "Vince"
>I am about to move my elliot Sturdimill 1250 to a new location - with 3
>phase this time so I can actually use it!!! The mill weighs about 3 tons and
>I was wondering how to mount it.
>
>The manual says to bolt it down using rag bolts and then cement it in. Is
>this still a good idea with modern practice?
>
>One problem I have is the floor is coated in a lovely green substance that I
>don't want to ruin too much. Would it be possible to put the mill on a very
>thick piece of marine ply or rubber to absorb vibration before bolting down?
>Also is it possible to drill the holes etc once the mill is in place and
>epoxy the bolts?
>
>HELP - doing it next week.
>
At 3 tons where's it going to go if you don't bolt it down?
My "lightweight" Elliott mill comes in a just over a ton and I've
simply plonked it down, made sure that it's fully down on the flat
surface and left it. Again the manual says bolt it down, grout in in
and such things. Never bothered, never had a problem.
Charles
http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk
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Posted by Norman Billingham on August 16, 2006, 11:11 am
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>I am about to move my elliot Sturdimill 1250 to a new location - with 3
> phase this time so I can actually use it!!! The mill weighs about 3 tons
> and
> I was wondering how to mount it.
>
> The manual says to bolt it down using rag bolts and then cement it in. Is
> this still a good idea with modern practice?
>
> One problem I have is the floor is coated in a lovely green substance that
> I
> don't want to ruin too much. Would it be possible to put the mill on a
> very
> thick piece of marine ply or rubber to absorb vibration before bolting
> down?
> Also is it possible to drill the holes etc once the mill is in place and
> epoxy the bolts?
I work in a university where there is a big engineering workshop, with mills
of all sizes. None of them is bolted down - they just stand solidly on a
flat floor. They get pretty heavy use sometimes but I've never seen one go
walkabout!
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Posted by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Nick_M=FCller?= on August 16, 2006, 11:28 am
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> The manual says to bolt it down using rag bolts and then cement it in. Is
> this still a good idea with modern practice?
My Deckel's manuals says that to. I have put rubber leveling shoes
(cheap ones) under it. That's all. No wandering, no vibrations.
Nick
--
The modular DRO
Available now in USA / Canada
<http://www.yadro.de>
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Posted by Peter A Forbes on August 16, 2006, 12:49 pm
Please log in for more thread options wrote:
>I am about to move my elliot Sturdimill 1250 to a new location - with 3
>phase this time so I can actually use it!!! The mill weighs about 3 tons and
>I was wondering how to mount it.
>
>The manual says to bolt it down using rag bolts and then cement it in. Is
>this still a good idea with modern practice?
>
>One problem I have is the floor is coated in a lovely green substance that I
>don't want to ruin too much. Would it be possible to put the mill on a very
>thick piece of marine ply or rubber to absorb vibration before bolting down?
>Also is it possible to drill the holes etc once the mill is in place and
>epoxy the bolts?
>
>HELP - doing it next week.
>
We are looking at something for the larger machines that we are moving into the
workshop soon, and a couple of thoughts have crossed our collective minds:
1) Pair of box section runners with adjustable feet outboard of the machine,
something chunky like 100X100X6 with 125mm adjustable feet at the ends. Allows
the machine to be kept level and raises it up a tad as well, useful if you are
taller. If the outboard distance is enough then the machine cannot tip over.
If necessary, a centre support can be fitted right under the machine to
counteract any sag.
2) The Elliott 3A Progress drilling machine that we have is very top-heavy and
will probably get this treatment, but with just a pair of 50X100X6 bolted to the
base to take the strain if the drill has a large piece of kit dumped on the
table. The members would stick out about a foot either side.
A lot of the machines like the turret mills have a lot of metal high up, and
although I wouldn't worry about one falling over, it is nice to have them firmly
seated if nothing else.
Peter
--
Peter & Rita Forbes
Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel
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>phase this time so I can actually use it!!! The mill weighs about 3 tons and
>I was wondering how to mount it.
>
>The manual says to bolt it down using rag bolts and then cement it in. Is
>this still a good idea with modern practice?
>
>One problem I have is the floor is coated in a lovely green substance that I
>don't want to ruin too much. Would it be possible to put the mill on a very
>thick piece of marine ply or rubber to absorb vibration before bolting down?
>Also is it possible to drill the holes etc once the mill is in place and
>epoxy the bolts?
>
>HELP - doing it next week.
>