tapping copper?

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tapping copper? bugbear 05-12-2008
Posted by bugbear on May 12, 2008, 12:16 pm
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Well, my copper plate is delivered, and is jolly
conductive.

But I'd like to stop it sliding all over my hob,
so I want to add some "pips" to engage
with the burner "cross bars".

e.g.
http://www.ogormans.co.uk/images/Miele_KM361G_gas_hob.jpg

Is there anything special about tapping copper?

I have a good number of mixed carbon and hss taps;
I was planning on 4BA.

BugBear

Posted by dave sanderson on May 12, 2008, 3:37 pm
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> Well, my copper plate is delivered, and is jolly
> conductive.
>
> But I'd like to stop it sliding all over my hob,
> so I want to add some "pips" to engage
> with the burner "cross bars".
>
> e.g.http://www.ogormans.co.uk/images/Miele_KM361G_gas_hob.jpg
>
> Is there anything special about tapping copper?
>
> I have a good number of mixed carbon and hss taps;
> I was planning on 4BA.
>
> BugBear

IIRC use full fat milk as the tapping fluid. gummy horrid stuff, might
need to check the tapping size.

Dave

Posted by on May 12, 2008, 2:59 pm
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On Mon, 12 May 2008 12:37:10 -0700 (PDT), dave sanderson

>> Well, my copper plate is delivered, and is jolly
>> conductive.
>>
>> But I'd like to stop it sliding all over my hob,
>> so I want to add some "pips" to engage
>> with the burner "cross bars".
>>
>> e.g.http://www.ogormans.co.uk/images/Miele_KM361G_gas_hob.jpg
>>
>> Is there anything special about tapping copper?
>>
>> I have a good number of mixed carbon and hss taps;
>> I was planning on 4BA.
>>
>> BugBear
>
>IIRC use full fat milk as the tapping fluid. gummy horrid stuff, might
>need to check the tapping size.
>
>Dave
Copper is really gummy so I use form taps instead of cutting taps.
ERS

Posted by Peter Fairbrother on May 13, 2008, 2:56 pm
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dave sanderson wrote:
>> Well, my copper plate is delivered, and is jolly
>> conductive.
>>
>> But I'd like to stop it sliding all over my hob,
>> so I want to add some "pips" to engage
>> with the burner "cross bars".
>>
>> e.g.http://www.ogormans.co.uk/images/Miele_KM361G_gas_hob.jpg
>>
>> Is there anything special about tapping copper?
>>
>> I have a good number of mixed carbon and hss taps;
>> I was planning on 4BA.
>>
>> BugBear
>
> IIRC use full fat milk as the tapping fluid. gummy horrid stuff, might
> need to check the tapping size.
>

Bacon fat or lard is better. If you use milk then clean everything
nearby as soon as you have finished, milk splashes stain and rust steel
very quickly.

Use a very sharp (or roll-form) tap, and some arrangement to keep the
tap vertical is almost essential - a drill press or the like will do at
a pinch. Without some such arrangement it is very difficult to tap
copper, even a slight misalignment from vertical will cause the tap to
stick.

When (dry-) turning or drilling copper I find high speed helps, but
that's a bit impractical when tapping.

As with all tapping, a slightly oversize hole will make life much easier.

As to taps, carbon taps are plenty sharp and hard-wearing enough, but
HSS taps are tougher and break less easily - and toughness counts,
especially if you are hand tapping and aren't using a tapping machine or
drill stand etc. to keep the tap absolutely vertical.


-- Peter Fairbrother

Posted by Trevor Jones on May 12, 2008, 6:38 pm
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bugbear wrote:
> Well, my copper plate is delivered, and is jolly
> conductive.
>
> But I'd like to stop it sliding all over my hob,
> so I want to add some "pips" to engage
> with the burner "cross bars".
>
> e.g.
> http://www.ogormans.co.uk/images/Miele_KM361G_gas_hob.jpg
>
> Is there anything special about tapping copper?
>
> I have a good number of mixed carbon and hss taps;
> I was planning on 4BA.
>
> BugBear

Use a brand new, scary sharp tap. Use cream (I have used the little
coffee creamer packs, not the non-dairy abonations) for tapping fluid.
Animal fats are supposed to work, but I have not tried them. Bacon fat
was suggested.

If you can get at a tapping machine, so much the better. I found that
running the tap fast, helped.

I did a series of 5/16", and 3/8" holes in some buss bars for a large
radio installation grounding assembly. The first two holes destroyed a
couple taps, and the holes. Once we got the tapping machine set up, the
rest of a couple hundred holes, only took a few minutes, and turned out
very well.

Try a test hole or two, on a scrap or cut-off.

I'd suggest drilling the holes on the large side of the scale. Not
like you are relying on the threads to hold up any structure, so you can
afford to be pretty generous with the drill size.

Cheers
Trevor Jones


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