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Posted by bugbear on May 14, 2008, 4:36 am
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bugbear wrote:
> Is there anything special about tapping copper?
O.K. the job is done.
In my woodwork cum tool restoring shop:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f234/bugbear33/workshop.jpg
I marked out the position of the holes
(sheet of glass, surface gauge, dividers, fat permanent
marker as substitute for layout blue)
Following my previous difficulties locating
a hole accurately in some soft material
http://groups.google.com/group/uk.rec.models.engineering/browse_thread/thread/18588fd3d8ae8c06/249ad4151db8daf0#249ad4151db8daf0
I didn't dot punch; given that I was planning
to use 4BA threads (around 1/8", but a fine thread)
I was using a 3mm drill, as per Zeus chart.
I drilled a 3mm hole in a piece of scrap mild steel,
and clamped the piece of scrap in place, this
faking a drilling bush.
I then used a hand drill (Stanley #803)
to make a substantial start to the hole.
Having "marked" all the holes in this way,
I changed to using a drill stand to get the
holes straight.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f234/bugbear33/wolf.jpg
(no drill press, I'm afraid) with my Bosch drill. Typical DIY
drill, hammer action, multi speed, reversible jobby.
Having made the thorough holes, it was time
to tap. A second hand Presto carbon steel
4BA taper tap (very long taper) was fixed in a
Millers Falls hand vise
http://www.hanman-tools.co.uk/items/AHV2.jpg
The jaws in this have a vertical 'v' groove,
and the handle can be replaced with a brace adapter.
I held the vise in a very small brace (5 inch sweep).
This arrangement allows very good directional accuracy,
since the assembly is around 16" long from tap to handle.
The only problem is that even a tiny brace can generate
a lot of torque.
I therefore only used this arrangement to start each thread,
around 3-4 turns (in the hallowed 3/4 turn forward,
1/2 turn back method).
The recommended bovine lubrication was used :-)
I then put the tap in a small 'T' holder,
and finished each thread.
The tap was regularly extracted (tedious!) and cleaned
of chips using a small brass brush (actually
a sueded cleaning brush).
Bottom line - I had no trouble, and now have 8 nicely
tapped holes, populated by 8 4BA studs, and the copper
plate sits on my hob nice in a stable and safe fashion.
Thanks to all for your help.
BugBear
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Posted by bugbear on May 15, 2008, 7:10 am
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bugbear wrote:
> bugbear wrote:
>> Is there anything special about tapping copper?
>
> O.K. the job is done.
And here's the (mundane) result:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f234/bugbear33/hot_plate.jpg
BugBear
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Posted by Austin Shackles on May 15, 2008, 9:45 am
Please log in for more thread options On or around Thu, 15 May 2008 12:10:38 +0100, bugbear
>bugbear wrote:
>> bugbear wrote:
>>> Is there anything special about tapping copper?
>>
>> O.K. the job is done.
>
>And here's the (mundane) result:
>
>http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f234/bugbear33/hot_plate.jpg
>
> BugBear
how does it work? I might do one for here. Got one of the ones that
someone recommended, it's better than the ones I had but still plated steel
and will eventually rust just the same, although it seems to work quite
well.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
------------------------------------------------
>> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << ...and Kill them.
a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too!
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Posted by bugbear on May 15, 2008, 11:07 am
Please log in for more thread options Austin Shackles wrote:
> On or around Thu, 15 May 2008 12:10:38 +0100, bugbear
>
>> bugbear wrote:
>>> bugbear wrote:
>>>> Is there anything special about tapping copper?
>>> O.K. the job is done.
>> And here's the (mundane) result:
>>
>> http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f234/bugbear33/hot_plate.jpg
>>
>> BugBear
>
> how does it work? I might do one for here. Got one of the ones that
> someone recommended, it's better than the ones I had but still plated steel
> and will eventually rust just the same, although it seems to work quite
> well.
Heh. I haven't cooked on it yet.
BugBear
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Posted by bugbear on May 16, 2008, 5:51 am
Please log in for more thread options bugbear wrote:
>>>
>>> http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f234/bugbear33/hot_plate.jpg
>>
>> how does it work? I might do one for here. Got one of the ones that
>> someone recommended, it's better than the ones I had but still plated
>> steel
>> and will eventually rust just the same, although it seems to work quite
>> well.
>
> Heh. I haven't cooked on it yet.
I have now; made a soup last night, in a largish
(6-8 pint, I guess) aluminium Tefal pan.
The simmering was gloriously even over the entire
area of the copper, so I guess it's working as designed.
I was slightly disappointed that the simmering
was quite fast; it appears that the cheap
diffuser also sheds some heat somewhere other
than the pan, since (from memory) the simmering
on the aluminium diffuser was slower (but
less even).
I was using my hob's smallest burner,
at minimum level.
I suspect that the copper plate
will perform its anticipated task
of avoiding food burning rather well.
BugBea
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