|
Posted by Vernon on May 13, 2007, 4:41 pm
Please log in for more thread options wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Vernon wrote:
> > > We just acquired a VW diesel rabbit for $400. The intake manifold
> > > fell off after all four of its mounting bolts broke.
>
> > > One of these broke off sufficiently above the machined side of the
> > > head that we were able to turn it out by striking the burr with a
> > > chisel.
>
> > > However, the other three are broken slightly beneath the surface.
>
> > > Ideally, we'd like to remove these without having to remove the
> > > Indian .. er.. engine...
>
> > > I am wondering about the possibility of striking an arc on the end of
> > > each bolt and building this up until it's above the surface and then
> > > turning 'em out with a chisel as we did the first one.
>
> > > Some time ago I read about a trick like this where the guy strick the
> > > arc inside a small piece of copper tubing placed into the hole.
> > > However, I presume that in his case he was working with a steel bolt
> > > inside a steel head and that the purpose of the copper tubing was to
> > > keep from welding the stud to the head.
>
> > > So the plan is to use some reasonably small rod at a suitably low
> > > amperage WITHOUT the copper tubing. As I perceive things the aluminum
> > > will not melt because it is a better conductor of heat than the steel.
>
> > > However, in my mind everything is easy. It's at the "reality
> > > interface" that things start to go wrong.
>
> > > So, is this a viable plan? And if so, what rod flavor and diameter
> > > would YOU recommend.
>
> > > All answers appreciated. Correct answers REALLY appreciated. Plan
> > > "b" is to remove the engine and drill 'em out.
>
> > > There is just enough room between the work area and the firewall to
> > > make this doable if I bend the rod into an "L" shape.
>
> > > Thanks!
>
> > > Vernon
>
> > Hold a nut centered over the broken stud . Strike an arc with that
> > suitably small rod and weld the nut to the stud . Apply wrench to nut while
> > still quite warm , stud should come right out . Worked well on a cyl head
> > from a GM V6 with a couple of busted studs , but we had a bit more room than
> > you do (heads were off) , and a mig welder .
>
> A few refinements.
> Use a cellulosic rod, like 6011 or 6010 or the hole will fill with flux.
> I prefer to use a MIG or TIG when doing this so there is no flux to get
> in the way.
> Make sure to use a UNPLATED washer or nut or the zinc will explode in
> your arc and make the weld brittle.
> I always have a stock of bare steel square nuts around for welding
> threads to the backs of barstock.
>
> Once you have it welded to the stud, and it is still hot, inject some
> penetrating lube into the bolt hole.(ie Liquid Wrench, Knockrloose, C-36)
> WD40 is not my choice for this, but if that is all you have...
> Some people use parrafin wax or peppermint oil, as they both have
> excellent wicking ability.
> Lock a pair of vise-grips to the nuts and start wiggling the nut back
> and forth, working the lube down into the threads.
> The threads should start to loosen up as you wiggle.
> Eventually it should break free enough to spin it out.
>
> Once you have the stud out, chase the threads out with a tap.- Hide quoted
text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Ernie,
Thanks for piping in!
I think we're gonna remove the engine just to give us a better chance
of getting it right. At my age and level of ability, it's hard to
imagine doing it just right, in a cramped and awkward position, with
poor visiblity, three times in a row.
V
| 
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
> fell off after all four of its mounting bolts broke.
>
> One of these broke off sufficiently above the machined side of the
> head that we were able to turn it out by striking the burr with a
> chisel.
>
> However, the other three are broken slightly beneath the surface.
>
> Ideally, we'd like to remove these without having to remove the
> Indian .. er.. engine...
>
> I am wondering about the possibility of striking an arc on the end of
> each bolt and building this up until it's above the surface and then
> turning 'em out with a chisel as we did the first one.
>
> Some time ago I read about a trick like this where the guy strick the
> arc inside a small piece of copper tubing placed into the hole.
> However, I presume that in his case he was working with a steel bolt
> inside a steel head and that the purpose of the copper tubing was to
> keep from welding the stud to the head.
>
> So the plan is to use some reasonably small rod at a suitably low
> amperage WITHOUT the copper tubing. As I perceive things the aluminum
> will not melt because it is a better conductor of heat than the steel.
>
> However, in my mind everything is easy. It's at the "reality
> interface" that things start to go wrong.
>
> So, is this a viable plan? And if so, what rod flavor and diameter
> would YOU recommend.
>
> All answers appreciated. Correct answers REALLY appreciated. Plan
> "b" is to remove the engine and drill 'em out.
>
> There is just enough room between the work area and the firewall to
> make this doable if I bend the rod into an "L" shape.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Vernon