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Posted by jw on April 18, 2008, 9:53 pm
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> > > > > On Apr 18, 8:03 am, "John L. Weatherly"
>
> > > > > > stryped wrote:
wrote:
>
> > > > > >
>
> > > > > > >> > Been thinking of building my own trailer because I need one and
enjoy
> > > > > > >> > building.
>
> > > > > > >> > One question by the way, would it be stupid to put a dovetail
and a
> > > > > > >> > fold down gate on a 10 foot trailer? And if I did have a
dovetail,
> > > > > > >> > when calculating the axle placement using the 60/40 rule, do you
> > > > > > >> > consider the dovetail in terms of the total length?
>
> > > > > > >> Most 10' trailers tilt instead of dovetail. It'll eat into your
flat
> > > > > > >> bed surface.
>
> > > > > > >> As far as axle placement, you want 10-15% of the total weight of
the
> > > > > > >> trailer on the tongue. If it's too light, it will tow like crap.
Use
> > > > > > >> that rule for load placement, too.
>
> > > > > > >> John
>
> > > > > > > What is a good way to tilt it? Most of the time I will just be
hauling
> > > > > > > gravel and things, but one in a blue moon I might have to haul my
8N
> > > > > > > for repair or something.Not sure how well a tilt bed will work in
> > > > > > > that cause.
>
> > > > > > > I would like to make it longer but dont think I have scrounged
enough
> > > > > > > medal to make it any longer than 10 feet 6 inches.
>
> > > > > > > By the way, what is the best way to determine that tongue weight? I
> > > > > > > wont know how heavy it is until it is built. How do I determin
tongue
> > > > > > > weight on it? Is it possible to have too much tongue weight?
>
> > > > > > I was under the impression that you were building a utility trailer.
It
> > > > > > sounds like you need an equipment trailer. I wouldn't suggest
building an
> > > > > > equipment trailer as your first trailer. The stresses are much
larger in
> > > > > > critical areas. Better to make a design mistake hauling a lawn
mower than
> > > > > > a 5000# load.
>
> > > > > > As far as tongue weight, you can tell by looking at it with
experience.
> > > > > > Here's a
guide:http://www.curtmfg.com/index.cfm?event=pageview&contentpieceid=1347
>
> > > > > > When I built my trailer, I took numerous photos and measurements on
existing
> > > > > > trailers & built mine to meet my size needs.
>
> > > > > > The dexter website is helpful with running gear info.
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > John L. Weatherly
>
> > > > > > please remove XXXs to reply via email- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > > I am needing a utility trailer mostly. However it would be nice to
> > > > > "once a year" or less haul my 1943 Ford 8N tractor if I ever needed
> > > > > to. (probably never will). It weights 2, 500 lbs.
>
> > > > > I have available some metal at work I can buy at scrap price. However,
> > > > > it is beffy 4x4 1/4 inch square tubing. Is this too heavy to build a 6
> > > > > fott by 10 foot trailer? Can I weld it with my Lincoln AC welder 225
> > > > > amps?
>
> > > > > I really appreciate your help and sorry for the questions. I just have
> > > > > so many even after I have looked at hundreds of trailers and read a
> > > > > few books.
>
> > > > What sort of lengths can you get?
>
> > > > 4x4 x1/4 is going to be very beefy. But from your post on RCM you can
> > > > get a heck of good price on it.
>
> > > > For the length, I don't think a dove tail makes much sense. But fold
> > > > down ramps, or a gate might be handy.
>
> > > > Your welder should be more than adequate for the job. But are you?
>
> > > > What are you planning on for a deck surface? Diamond plate, or wood,
> > > > or?
>
> > > > Any way to source something lighter (say 1x3x1/8) for cross
> > > > stringers? And then sheet the whole thing with steel diamond plate.
> > > > Or lay planking the length. I wouldn't worry too much about building
> > > > a tilt bed. Depending on your axles, you should be able to build the
> > > > deck pretty close the ground. Adding the tilt can be a lot of work.
> > > > And given this is your first trailer, try to keep it simple.
>
> > > > A low deck car trailer I built years ago is low enough that I rarely
> > > > use ramps to load onto it. Usually I can find enough of a rise in the
> > > > area to just drive onto the trailer. I think the deck is around 12"
> > > > off the ground. No beavertail.
>
> > > > JW- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > I was thinking of wood to cut down on weight. I think I have second
> > > guessed the dovetail.
>
> > > Maybe no back but portable ramps.
>
> > > Would a 3500 lb axle be heavy enough or should it be more since this
> > > thing will weight alot because of the steel?
>
> > > Admittantly, the most thing this will be used for is hauling river
> > > gravel to mulch around my house. Maybe trees. But I would like to be
> > > able to put my tractor on it in case I ever needed to.
>
> > > There are 8 10 foot sections I believe. I think I can get it all for
> > > 80 bucks.
>
> > The steel you have is pretty close to 10 lb/ft. (pull out a book to
> > get the exact number).
>
> > If you used three full lengths, and used the same for cross stringers
> > you would need 30 ft for rails + 36 ft for the cross stringers.(2ft
> > centers) The 14 ft you have left would be pretty good for a decent A
> > frame tongue. That gives you 800lb in frame. The deck shouldn't be
> > too bad. 2x planking it will weigh around 175 lbs.
>
> > So say your total trailer weight is 1000#. Since you carry some of
> > your load on the tongue... A 3500# axle should be good for ~2900 lbs
> > of payload capacity in this configuration.
>
> > Certainly meets your needs. And a 6x10 trailer built completely out
> > of 4x4x1/4 is going to be stiffer than heck. You won't have to worry
> > about bending it.
>
> > Disclaiimer: This is all napkin math, and not just a heck of a lot of
> > thought put into it. 2 ft centers is probably overkill. You can
> > probably get away with a wider spacing given your materials. Wider
> > spacing would reduce weight. Also, much lighter material could be
> > used for your cross stringers. Further dropping weight. I would
> > venture it should be possible to drop the trailer weight to 750#
> > pretty easily without giving up any capacity. 2x3x3/16 is 5.59lb/ft.
> > That would drop 160#. Better spacing might drop 1 or 2 stringers so
> > there's another 70# maybe.
>
> > JW- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Thanks, this helps alot! Would you use angle 2x2 x 1/4 as cross
> stingers instead? (I would have to buy it and it is about 66 bucks a
> stick.
>
> What about the weight of the axle, etc?
>
> Would I have to have electric brakes?
>
> My main concern is getting a trailer as cheaply as I can that will
> service my needs for many years. (I tend to keep stuff).
>
> Part of me wondered about going ahead and building a 16 foot dual
> axle, but I would have to weld two of the 10 foot pieces togther.
2x2x1/4 Angle is 3.19 lb/ft so that would be good. Correction on the
4x4x1/4. Its 12.5 lb/ft. (I have my handbook with me now)
Recalculating some then. 375# for the rails. Another 175# for the
tongue. 150# for the end stringers. The remaining stringers at 76#
(using angle). Total = 776 (pretty close to where we were).
Do you have a drop axle or a straight axle? Are you planning on
suspension? (I didn't on my car trailer and it saves you several
inches of height).
You wouldn't have to have brakes, but it depends on what you are
towing with. Having brakes and not wiring them isn't a bad idea. If
you need them later, you can hook them up.
Honestly, what I would do? Buy 2x4x1/8 for the side rails and 1x3x1/8
for the cross stringers. The heavy wall 4x4 weighs a lot, and the
extra thickness really does little for you. For such a short trailer,
2x3 might even be enough for the side rails.
The idea of making it a 16' is a good one. Welding two pieces
together is not a big deal. And you could buy some of the 2x2 angle
to build a cradle at the joint and join the axles to it. It would be
a very strong joint. The heavy wall will do you some good on the
length, but it's still going to be a stiff trailer. My 16' doesn't
flex a lot over it's length, even end loading the trailer with the
Bobcat.
I hesitate to give you much more advice as I'm getting close to
designing this thing for you, not that I can't I just don't want the
responsibility of my suggestions becoming something more than that.
As Iggy suggested, put up some drawings and allow comment. Plenty of
knowledgeable people here.
JW
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