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Posted by Martin H. Eastburn on March 23, 2008, 11:32 pm
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Hard solder - silver solder. Never lead or tin or like solders. Heat makes
tin and lead oxide. Heat melts solder. Solder isn't strong enough.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/
Leo Lichtman wrote:
> "Private" wrote: (clip) These old copper & brass rads will really benefit
> from a proper
>> rad rebuild including a soak in the cleaning tank, removal of the end
>> tanks and a rod out, and the mounts and joints will benefit from solder
>> renewal. (clip)
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> Will the radiator shop use old-fashioned lead-tin solder, or are they
> required to use lead-free? Do the troubles I've heard about electrical
> solder joints extend to radiators as well? Seems really relevant in an
> application like this, with lots of vibration.
>
>
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Posted by SteveB on March 23, 2008, 11:17 pm
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>
>
>>>>>Then TWANG!
>>>>>
>>>>>Something fell into the fan and it threw it into the radiator causing a
>>>>>hole. Looked under the engine, and it was half a lock washer. I have
>>>>>no
>>>>>clue where it vibrated from, probably somewhere around the shroud.
>>>>>I'll
>>>>>take the radiator to Vegas Wednesday where the best radiator man I know
>>>>>has
>>>>>a shop.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> You simply cant use acid core solder to patch the hole?
>>>>
>>>> Gunner
>>> I have successfully repaired radiator holes with JB Weld as well as with
>>> solder.
>>>
>>> Don Young
>>
>> I tried some solder I use for pipes, but it wouldn't work. I will buy
>> some acid core today and try that. I did use flux, too, but no dice. My
>> MAPP gas torch was acting up, so had to use propane/ox cutting torch at a
>> very low setting. May buy a new valve today, too.
>>
>> Steve
>
> Considering the low initial cost and very high value of this machine as
> well as its age, IMHO it is well worth doing a proper complete rebuild of
> the rad at this time. A field repair with solder or especially JB weld is
> IMHE a temporary fix and IMHO this machine deserves better.
>
> IMHE these rads do suffer damage from vibration and failed solder joints
> and mounts are fairly common. Most older cooling systems are also
> suffering the effects of ageing coolant with silica gel and dropout as
> well as internal corrosion. These old copper & brass rads will really
> benefit from a proper rad rebuild including a soak in the cleaning tank,
> removal of the end tanks and a rod out, and the mounts and joints will
> benefit from solder renewal. This rebuild work will allow the rad to give
> many more years of service, consider it a half-life rebuild.
>
> I would also suggest you combine the rad rebuild with a proper block flush
> before refilling with a 50/50 mixture of long life antifreeze and
> DISTILLED water. DO NOT USE TAP (OR ESPECIALLY WELL) WATER FOR MIXING
> COOLANT. Distilled or RO or other deionized water can be obtained
> inexpensively at most health food stores or you can use premixed$$
> coolant.
>
> I also suggest this may be a good time to replace the drain plugs and
> valves with new valves with attached drain hoses that will facilitate easy
> recovery of coolant at any future required servicing.
>
> When you go to see your friend the rad guy, I suggest you also take your
> gas tank as the rad cleaning tank will also do a great job of removing any
> old gas gunk & varnish from it.
>
> Good luck, YMMV
TY. I would have never thought of the gas tank. I went to buy some solder
today, but it wasn't meant to be. My small Mormon town Checker Store didn't
have it. Ace is closed on Sundays, as is every other business in the state.
When I looked down the neck of the radiator, I saw rust, so have decided to
take it to Vegas Wednesday and just have it done right or get another. No
sense doing all this, and not getting the radiator gone through, too.
While it is apart, I'm probably going to paint it, too.
Steve
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Posted by SteveB on March 24, 2008, 12:52 am
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>
>> I would also suggest you combine the rad rebuild with a proper block
>> flush before refilling
How does one go about that? I had thought I'd take off the thermostat neck,
get a new thermostat while I'm in there, and just flush water through to get
out the big stuff. Then, after I seal everything up, buy a product for rad
flushing. Tips appreciated. When I drained, it, it had remarkably
green/clearish liquid. But I do see some rust and crud in the passages.
Might as well do all this while it's apart.
Steve
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Posted by Private on March 24, 2008, 1:29 am
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>
>>
>
>>> I would also suggest you combine the rad rebuild with a proper block
>>> flush before refilling
>
> How does one go about that? I had thought I'd take off the thermostat
> neck, get a new thermostat while I'm in there, and just flush water
> through to get out the big stuff. Then, after I seal everything up, buy a
> product for rad flushing. Tips appreciated. When I drained, it, it had
> remarkably green/clearish liquid. But I do see some rust and crud in the
> passages. Might as well do all this while it's apart.
>
> Steve
There are lots of commercial flushing systems available, some are very harsh
and require neutralizers and lots of flushing to remove. Some are very hard
on hoses. Since you will be starting with a clean rebuilt rad the most
important part is already done, (and I add done better than any flush). I
have had good luck using a clean water flush followed by filling with a
strong mixture of (Calgon) dishwasher detergent and water. I let it
circulate in a running hot engine for 1/2 hour or so and follow with a
thorough warm running flush with clean water and with all drains open, then
a warm running flush with distilled water. I do not bother to remove the
thermostat but I do make sure that the engine reaches operating temp and the
thermostat is opening properly. After final drain, refill with 50/50 long
life coolant and distilled water.
Good luck, YMMV
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Posted by Gunner on March 24, 2008, 4:30 am
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>
>>
>>>
>>
>>>> I would also suggest you combine the rad rebuild with a proper block
>>>> flush before refilling
>>
>> How does one go about that? I had thought I'd take off the thermostat
>> neck, get a new thermostat while I'm in there, and just flush water
>> through to get out the big stuff. Then, after I seal everything up, buy a
>> product for rad flushing. Tips appreciated. When I drained, it, it had
>> remarkably green/clearish liquid. But I do see some rust and crud in the
>> passages. Might as well do all this while it's apart.
>>
>> Steve
>
>There are lots of commercial flushing systems available, some are very harsh
>and require neutralizers and lots of flushing to remove. Some are very hard
>on hoses. Since you will be starting with a clean rebuilt rad the most
>important part is already done, (and I add done better than any flush). I
>have had good luck using a clean water flush followed by filling with a
>strong mixture of (Calgon) dishwasher detergent and water. I let it
>circulate in a running hot engine for 1/2 hour or so and follow with a
>thorough warm running flush with clean water and with all drains open, then
>a warm running flush with distilled water. I do not bother to remove the
>thermostat but I do make sure that the engine reaches operating temp and the
>thermostat is opening properly. After final drain, refill with 50/50 long
>life coolant and distilled water.
>
>Good luck, YMMV
>
and please use a pet safe coolant.
Gunner
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