ERNIE, a question I was told to ask you.

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ERNIE, a question I was told to ask you. HC 06-27-2008
Posted by HC on July 3, 2008, 12:07 am
Please log in for more thread options
Hey, Ernie, any recommendations on what hardwareI should buy to run
TIG from this machine?

Which, if I may ask, school to you teach for and what area of the
country is it located in?

--HC

> The =A0Dynasty 200 DX is a full fledged TIG machine with AC and DC
> capability.
> It is a very nice machine, but does not have near the duty cycle or
> amperage output of the CST 280 in stick mode.
>
> The Dynasty 200DX is a very nice machine, but for the heavy stick
> welding you are describing, the CST 280 is superior.
> I have had a Maxstar 200DX for 8 years and love it.
> The Maxstar is the DC only version of the Dynasty.
> If you need super portability and the widest range imaginable of input
> voltages, the Maxstar and Dynasty 200's win hands down with the ability
> to run on anything from 80 to 500 volts, single or 3 phase, 50 or 60
> hertz.
> The CST 280 is a 220/440 single or 3 phase machine.
> It is primarily a Stick welder, but will do very nice DC TIG welding.
>
> I still feel the CST 280 is the better machine for you.
>
> In article
>
>
>
>
> > Any thoughts, good or bad, on the other Miller "combo" units such as
> > the Dynasty 200 they list under TIG machines? =A0They claim it will do
> > stick and TIG but list it under the TIG secstion of their catalog. =A0I
> > ask because, after another session in the shop today, I am wondering
> > (dreaming) that maybe TIG would help me have better results on some of
> > my finer welding (like hinges and door straps) and, if I'm going to
> > pony up the cash to buy a new unit, I would like it to be the best it
> > can be. =A0I've welded aluminum one time only so I 'm not worried about
> > needing to TIG aluminum, just mild steel. =A0So, the CST 280 can do TIG
> > but is listed under the Stick section of their catalog but the Dynasty
> > 200 DX is listed under the TIG section of their catalog and can do
> > Stick. =A0 Ah, who knows, I think the marketing people make it this
> > confusing on purpose.
>
> > :)
>
> > --HC
>
> > Thanks again and I don't know
>
> > > In article
C
>
> > > > Hey, Ernie, thank you for your reply.
>
> > > > I looked that machine up and it sounds good to me. =A0I like the lo=
wer
> > > > power consumption over the transformer/traditional styles. =A0It's =
cool
> > > > that it could do some TIG work as, while I was working in the shop
> > > > yesterday, I was wondering if that process might work better for so=
me
> > > > work I'm doing where I do short welds in an open area and my MIG is
> > > > leaving too much metal (even with the wire speed adjusted down).
> > > > Since I do all my work in the shop a generator machine isn't going =
to
> > > > do what I need; I have extended periods of setup and then intermitt=
ent
> > > > welds to make so a grid-supplied unit is ideal.
>
> > > > I'm not sure what part of the country you're in but I get my traile=
r
> > > > kits (axle, springs, hubs, bearings, hitch, et cetera) from
> > > > abctrailerparts.com in Alabama (I'm in Texas). =A0It's a small outf=
it, I
> > > > think just the one guy, Randy, but he's been good to take care of m=
y
> > > > orders for several years and the one time I had a problem with an a=
xle
> > > > he got it taken care of. =A0If you contact him, tell him Hartford s=
ent
> > > > you. =A0It won't get either of us a break on the price but it will
> > > > spread goodwill with him knowing I pointed business his way.
>
> > > > Just in case you've never done it, don't use an old propane tank if
> > > > you can help it. =A0Whatever they put in those things to make the
> > > > propane smell is tenacious; I cut one up to make a charcoal cooker =
and
> > > > I took it to the car wash and pressure washed the inside (after I h=
ad
> > > > it cut open) and then make my cooker from it. =A0It still smelled b=
ad. I
> > > > had to build a couple of wood fires in it to get a coating on it an=
d
> > > > I'm not convinced that I couldn't still smell that stuff some; I ne=
ver
> > > > cooked on it. =A0I did, however, not find any evidence of the "pock=
ets
> > > > of gas" that everyone around here claim remain in the tank; the
> > > > propane had long since vacated the tank, it was jut the stink that =
was
> > > > left.
>
> > > > Thanks again.
>
> > > > --HC
>
> > > The chemical is called Methyl Mercaptan.
> > > It is one of the stinkiest things on earth.
>
> > > The only way I know to get rid of it is it burn it out with a BIG
> > > rosebud tip.
>
> > > For the home smoker I am building the main tank is going to be a 100
> > > gallon air tank.
> > > The smoker I built last year at school is a 300 gallon air tank that
> > > came from our air system.
> > > The BIG tank at school is a 500 gallon air tank I found at the junk
> > > yard for scrap price of around $180.
>
> > > > > OK to sum up you fried your little Stickmate, and would like to u=
pgrade
> > > > > to something bigger.
> > > > > You have reasonably stable mains power, but not a lot of it.
>
> > > > > On the machines you list, any of the transformer machines would w=
ork,
> > > > > but I would avoid the shopmate like the plague.
> > > > > Miller invented that machine for schools, and that is where it sh=
ould
> > > > > stay.
>
> > > > > The best machine that I can recommend is the Miller CST280 invert=
er.
>
> > > > >http://www.millerwelds.com/products/stick/cst-280/
>
> > > > > List price is around $2300, but the real price is more like $1900=
.
> > > > > I bought one for my school 2.5 years ago and it has been a workho=
rse
> > > > > ever since.
> > > > > Absolutely excellent stick welder, and can be used for basic TIG.
> > > > > It can use a foot pedal, but does not have high freq. start, AC o=
utput,
> > > > > or a gas valve.
> > > > > You can use a gas valve body TIG torch and it does have lift arc =
start.
> > > > > Aluminum up to 1/8" can be TIG welded using DC Electrode Positive=
, and
> > > > > a very large tungsten.
>
> > > > > The best bit is the power efficiency.
> > > > > It makes 6010 rod crackle with joy, and runs 7018 at a purr.
>
> > > > > At school we run it for extended periods of 180 - 210 amps output=
and
> > > > > it has never complained once.
>
> > > > > I put it above all the transformers you listed, and also Lincoln'=
s
> > > > > comparable inverter machine, simply because Miller has inverters =
down
> > > > > pat.
>
> > > > > You will love the portability.
>
> > > > > The other viable option would be a generator machine, but with fu=
el
> > > > > prices soaring I am not sure how that would effect your bottom li=
ne.
>
> > > > > BTW I built a HUGE smoker/BBQ for the school from an old 300 gall=
on air
> > > > > tank.
> > > > > Works great.
> > > > > I have a 500 gallon tank I am tempted to build into a trailer mou=
nted
> > > > > Smoker/BBQ.
>
> > > > > In article
, HC
>
> > > > > > Someone named/going by Steamboat Ed (steamer) read the followin=
g post
> > > > > > I had put in rec.metalworking and said I should post it here an=
d ask
> > > > > > Ernie so here it is below. =A0Thank anyone for your time. =A0I =
basically
> > > > > > got two responses over there and only one really tried to addre=
ss my
> > > > > > base question which is about a couple of machines I'm thinking =
of
> > > > > > buying to replace my current welder.
>
> > > > > > Original post below------
>
> > > > > > Hey, all, I currently have a Hobart Stickmate 235/160 AC/DC mac=
hine
> > > > > > and I am thinking of buying a larger machine; what I'd like is =
to know
> > > > > > thoughts and opinions about what would be a good machine to get=
.
>
> > > > > > I mostly do hobby welding but that may include hours of continu=
ous
> > > > > > welding (I sometimes, rarely, will weld for a couple of hours n=
on-
> > > > > > stop). =A0I build smokers and have also built metal brackets to=
use to
> > > > > > raise my concrete foundation on my house (and lots of other pro=
jects),
> > > > > > and almost all the material I weld on is 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch t=
hick.
> > > > > > Mostly I use 6010 or 6011 rods which are 1/8 inch diameter, alt=
hough I
> > > > > > have found a really good use for 3/16 inch diameter 6010 rods. =
=A0I have
> > > > > > also used 5/32 6013 and 7014, and most all of this has been don=
e with
> > > > > > DC at the maximum output of my welder, 160 amps (well, whatever=
it
> > > > > > puts out when it's cranked up fully, nominally it is 160 amps).
>
> > > > > > I was in the middle of building 35 brackets to go under my foun=
dation
> > > > > > last year when, POP, my little Hobart went from humming along t=
o being
> > > > > > noisy as hell and it's never gotten quiet again. =A0I'm not sur=
e what
> > > > > > changed, maybe an adjustment screw on the slider in the thing f=
ell
> > > > > > out, who knows? =A0It gets hotter than hell (even with a 120 V,=
112 CFM
> > > > > > fan scabbed over a hole immediately over the rectifier in the t=
hing).
> > > > > > I don't use it all day any day, but, from time to time, I will =
crank
> > > > > > it up and burn rods for, literally, a couple of hours. =A0I do =
a fair
> > > > > > amount of welding in the 90-120 amp range with 6011 rods that a=
re 1/8
> > > > > > inch diameter, and also some 7018, 6013, 7014 rods, all at 1/8 =
inch
> > > > > > diameter at various amperages, but never anything below 75 amps=
.
>
> > > > > > I feel I'm asking too much, at the higher output, from my littl=
e
> > > > > > machine and would like a larger one. =A0I live in rural (sort o=
f, we
> > > > > > have a 24/7 Supercenter about 4 miles from me; how rural can it=
be?)
> > > > > > north central Texas and my power feed from the grid is what we =
call
> > > > > > 220 VAC, 60 Hz (but, with my RMS meter is really 250 VAC). =A0W=
hatever
> > > > > > it is, it is single phase and not strung between two of the gri=
d's
> > > > > > phases (208, I believe) as I have spoken to the utility to be s=
ure.
> > > > > > My shop is fed off a 100 amp breaker from the power pole and ha=
s a 100
> > > > > > amp main breaker in the power panel/breaker box.
>
> > > > > > So, I started looking at the Lincoln Idealarc 250 with PFC (pow=
er
> > > > > > factor correction) it can draw as much as 68 amps
>
> ...
>
> read more =BB- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


Posted by Ernie Leimkuhler on July 3, 2008, 2:42 am
Please log in for more thread options
In article

> Hey, Ernie, any recommendations on what hardwareI should buy to run
> TIG from this machine?
>

Air cooled... CK210 valve body torch, from CK Worldwide.
Water cooled... CK230 Flex-head valve body torch.
You will need a flow-gauge for the argon bottle.
Smith ball-and-tube flow gauges are the best, but not the most compact.
Victor and Western make more compact versions, but stick with a
ball-and-tube type.
Gas lens collet bodies, and Lanthanated tungstens.


> Which, if I may ask, school to you teach for and what area of the
> country is it located in?
>
> --HC
>

I am the Topside Welding Instructor for the Divers Institute of
Technology in Seattle, WA.

www.diversinstitute.com

Topside means I teach them to weld when they are NOT in the water.

We train commercial divers, mostly for the petroleum industry, but
there is also a lot of inland work in ports, bridges, piers, dams,
powerplants, reservoirs...

I am also a Certified Weld Inspector, Non-Destructive Testing
instructor, and a very serious cook.

> > The  Dynasty 200 DX is a full fledged TIG machine with AC and DC
> > capability.
> > It is a very nice machine, but does not have near the duty cycle or
> > amperage output of the CST 280 in stick mode.
> >
> > The Dynasty 200DX is a very nice machine, but for the heavy stick
> > welding you are describing, the CST 280 is superior.
> > I have had a Maxstar 200DX for 8 years and love it.
> > The Maxstar is the DC only version of the Dynasty.
> > If you need super portability and the widest range imaginable of input
> > voltages, the Maxstar and Dynasty 200's win hands down with the ability
> > to run on anything from 80 to 500 volts, single or 3 phase, 50 or 60
> > hertz.
> > The CST 280 is a 220/440 single or 3 phase machine.
> > It is primarily a Stick welder, but will do very nice DC TIG welding.
> >
> > I still feel the CST 280 is the better machine for you.
> >
> > In article
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Any thoughts, good or bad, on the other Miller "combo" units such as
> > > the Dynasty 200 they list under TIG machines?  They claim it will do
> > > stick and TIG but list it under the TIG secstion of their catalog.  I
> > > ask because, after another session in the shop today, I am wondering
> > > (dreaming) that maybe TIG would help me have better results on some of
> > > my finer welding (like hinges and door straps) and, if I'm going to
> > > pony up the cash to buy a new unit, I would like it to be the best it
> > > can be.  I've welded aluminum one time only so I 'm not worried about
> > > needing to TIG aluminum, just mild steel.  So, the CST 280 can do TIG
> > > but is listed under the Stick section of their catalog but the Dynasty
> > > 200 DX is listed under the TIG section of their catalog and can do
> > > Stick.   Ah, who knows, I think the marketing people make it this
> > > confusing on purpose.
> >
> > > :)
> >
> > > --HC
> >
> > > Thanks again and I don't know
> >
> > > > In article
> >
> > > > > Hey, Ernie, thank you for your reply.
> >
> > > > > I looked that machine up and it sounds good to me.  I like the lower
> > > > > power consumption over the transformer/traditional styles.  It's cool
> > > > > that it could do some TIG work as, while I was working in the shop
> > > > > yesterday, I was wondering if that process might work better for some
> > > > > work I'm doing where I do short welds in an open area and my MIG is
> > > > > leaving too much metal (even with the wire speed adjusted down).
> > > > > Since I do all my work in the shop a generator machine isn't going to
> > > > > do what I need; I have extended periods of setup and then intermittent
> > > > > welds to make so a grid-supplied unit is ideal.
> >
> > > > > I'm not sure what part of the country you're in but I get my trailer
> > > > > kits (axle, springs, hubs, bearings, hitch, et cetera) from
> > > > > abctrailerparts.com in Alabama (I'm in Texas).  It's a small outfit, I
> > > > > think just the one guy, Randy, but he's been good to take care of my
> > > > > orders for several years and the one time I had a problem with an axle
> > > > > he got it taken care of.  If you contact him, tell him Hartford sent
> > > > > you.  It won't get either of us a break on the price but it will
> > > > > spread goodwill with him knowing I pointed business his way.
> >
> > > > > Just in case you've never done it, don't use an old propane tank if
> > > > > you can help it.  Whatever they put in those things to make the
> > > > > propane smell is tenacious; I cut one up to make a charcoal cooker and
> > > > > I took it to the car wash and pressure washed the inside (after I had
> > > > > it cut open) and then make my cooker from it.  It still smelled bad. I
> > > > > had to build a couple of wood fires in it to get a coating on it and
> > > > > I'm not convinced that I couldn't still smell that stuff some; I never
> > > > > cooked on it.  I did, however, not find any evidence of the "pockets
> > > > > of gas" that everyone around here claim remain in the tank; the
> > > > > propane had long since vacated the tank, it was jut the stink that was
> > > > > left.
> >
> > > > > Thanks again.
> >
> > > > > --HC
> >
> > > > The chemical is called Methyl Mercaptan.
> > > > It is one of the stinkiest things on earth.
> >
> > > > The only way I know to get rid of it is it burn it out with a BIG
> > > > rosebud tip.
> >
> > > > For the home smoker I am building the main tank is going to be a 100
> > > > gallon air tank.
> > > > The smoker I built last year at school is a 300 gallon air tank that
> > > > came from our air system.
> > > > The BIG tank at school is a 500 gallon air tank I found at the junk
> > > > yard for scrap price of around $180.
> >
> > > > > > OK to sum up you fried your little Stickmate, and would like to
> > > > > > upgrade
> > > > > > to something bigger.
> > > > > > You have reasonably stable mains power, but not a lot of it.
> >
> > > > > > On the machines you list, any of the transformer machines would
> > > > > > work,
> > > > > > but I would avoid the shopmate like the plague.
> > > > > > Miller invented that machine for schools, and that is where it
> > > > > > should
> > > > > > stay.
> >
> > > > > > The best machine that I can recommend is the Miller CST280 inverter.
> >
> > > > > >http://www.millerwelds.com/products/stick/cst-280/
> >
> > > > > > List price is around $2300, but the real price is more like $1900.
> > > > > > I bought one for my school 2.5 years ago and it has been a workhorse
> > > > > > ever since.
> > > > > > Absolutely excellent stick welder, and can be used for basic TIG.
> > > > > > It can use a foot pedal, but does not have high freq. start, AC
> > > > > > output,
> > > > > > or a gas valve.
> > > > > > You can use a gas valve body TIG torch and it does have lift arc
> > > > > > start.
> > > > > > Aluminum up to 1/8" can be TIG welded using DC Electrode Positive,
> > > > > > and
> > > > > > a very large tungsten.
> >
> > > > > > The best bit is the power efficiency.
> > > > > > It makes 6010 rod crackle with joy, and runs 7018 at a purr.
> >
> > > > > > At school we run it for extended periods of 180 - 210 amps output
> > > > > > and
> > > > > > it has never complained once.
> >
> > > > > > I put it above all the transformers you listed, and also Lincoln's
> > > > > > comparable inverter machine, simply because Miller has inverters
> > > > > > down
> > > > > > pat.
> >
> > > > > > You will love the portability.
> >
> > > > > > The other viable option would be a generator machine, but with fuel
> > > > > > prices soaring I am not sure how that would effect your bottom line.
> >
> > > > > > BTW I built a HUGE smoker/BBQ for the school from an old 300 gallon
> > > > > > air
> > > > > > tank.
> > > > > > Works great.
> > > > > > I have a 500 gallon tank I am tempted to build into a trailer
> > > > > > mounted
> > > > > > Smoker/BBQ.
> >
> > > > > > In article
> > > > > > HC
> >
> > > > > > > Someone named/going by Steamboat Ed (steamer) read the following
> > > > > > > post
> > > > > > > I had put in rec.metalworking and said I should post it here and
> > > > > > > ask
> > > > > > > Ernie so here it is below.  Thank anyone for your time.  I
> > > > > > > basically
> > > > > > > got two responses over there and only one really tried to address
> > > > > > > my
> > > > > > > base question which is about a couple of machines I'm thinking of
> > > > > > > buying to replace my current welder.
> >
> > > > > > > Original post below------
> >
> > > > > > > Hey, all, I currently have a Hobart Stickmate 235/160 AC/DC
> > > > > > > machine
> > > > > > > and I am thinking of buying a larger machine; what I'd like is to
> > > > > > > know
> > > > > > > thoughts and opinions about what would be a good machine to get.
> >
> > > > > > > I mostly do hobby welding but that may include hours of continuous
> > > > > > > welding (I sometimes, rarely, will weld for a couple of hours non-
> > > > > > > stop).  I build smokers and have also built metal brackets to use
> > > > > > > to
> > > > > > > raise my concrete foundation on my house (and lots of other
> > > > > > > projects),
> > > > > > > and almost all the material I weld on is 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch
> > > > > > > thick.
> > > > > > > Mostly I use 6010 or 6011 rods which are 1/8 inch diameter,
> > > > > > > although I
> > > > > > > have found a really good use for 3/16 inch diameter 6010 rods.  I
> > > > > > > have
> > > > > > > also used 5/32 6013 and 7014, and most all of this has been done
> > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > DC at the maximum output of my welder, 160 amps (well, whatever it
> > > > > > > puts out when it's cranked up fully, nominally it is 160 amps).
> >
> > > > > > > I was in the middle of building 35 brackets to go under my
> > > > > > > foundation
> > > > > > > last year when, POP, my little Hobart went from humming along to
> > > > > > > being
> > > > > > > noisy as hell and it's never gotten quiet again.  I'm not sure
> > > > > > > what
> > > > > > > changed, maybe an adjustment screw on the slider in the thing fell
> > > > > > > out, who knows?  It gets hotter than hell (even with a 120 V, 112
> > > > > > > CFM
> > > > > > > fan scabbed over a hole immediately over the rectifier in the
> > > > > > > thing).
> > > > > > > I don't use it all day any day, but, from time to time, I will
> > > > > > > crank
> > > > > > > it up and burn rods for, literally, a couple of hours.  I do a
> > > > > > > fair
> > > > > > > amount of welding in the 90-120 amp range with 6011 rods that are
> > > > > > > 1/8
> > > > > > > inch diameter, and also some 7018, 6013, 7014 rods, all at 1/8
> > > > > > > inch
> > > > > > > diameter at various amperages, but never anything below 75 amps.
> >
> > > > > > > I feel I'm asking too much, at the higher output, from my little
> > > > > > > machine and would like a larger one.  I live in rural (sort of, we
> > > > > > > have a 24/7 Supercenter about 4 miles from me; how rural can it
> > > > > > > be?)
> > > > > > > north central Texas and my power feed from the grid is what we
> > > > > > > call
> > > > > > > 220 VAC, 60 Hz (but, with my RMS meter is really 250 VAC).
> > > > > > >  Whatever
> > > > > > > it is, it is single phase and not strung between two of the grid's
> > > > > > > phases (208, I believe) as I have spoken to the utility to be sure.
> > > > > > > My shop is fed off a 100 amp breaker from the power pole and has a
100
> > > > > > > amp main breaker in the power panel/breaker box.
> >
> > > > > > > So, I started looking at the Lincoln Idealarc 250 with PFC (power
> > > > > > > factor correction) it can draw as much as 68 amps
> >
> > ...
> >
> > read more »- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>

Posted by R on July 3, 2008, 9:14 am
Please log in for more thread options
Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
>
>> Hey, Ernie, any recommendations on what hardwareI should buy to run
>> TIG from this machine?

> Water cooled... CK230 Flex-head valve body torch.

Are the correct cable and hose lines for the CK230, from the 300 series
torches?

I bought a used CK230 flex-head torch, without hoses, thinking, I could
hook it to the cable/hose lines for my CK20 torch, or the lines from a
H35 series ESAB, neither of which were a match.
I hate to go back to my local supplier, with my tail between my legs, to
inquire or order.
I had thought, I could do this cheaper by getting a used torch, since,
my local source wanted to charge me full list for a CK230 setup. I
kinda burned my bridges there.
I cannot find an online parts breakdown for CK.
This is probably, only going to be an occasional use torch for tight
spots. I am hesitant to free up the dollars for a set of new CK
SuperFlex cables at full list price and then some.
I would like to source some hoses that fit.

Thanks, for any help,

Russ




Posted by Ernie Leimkuhler on July 3, 2008, 9:30 am
Please log in for more thread options

> Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
> >
> >> Hey, Ernie, any recommendations on what hardwareI should buy to run
> >> TIG from this machine?
>
> > Water cooled... CK230 Flex-head valve body torch.
>
> Are the correct cable and hose lines for the CK230, from the 300 series
> torches?
>
> I bought a used CK230 flex-head torch, without hoses, thinking, I could
> hook it to the cable/hose lines for my CK20 torch, or the lines from a
> H35 series ESAB, neither of which were a match.
> I hate to go back to my local supplier, with my tail between my legs, to
> inquire or order.
> I had thought, I could do this cheaper by getting a used torch, since,
> my local source wanted to charge me full list for a CK230 setup. I
> kinda burned my bridges there.
> I cannot find an online parts breakdown for CK.
> This is probably, only going to be an occasional use torch for tight
> spots. I am hesitant to free up the dollars for a set of new CK
> SuperFlex cables at full list price and then some.
> I would like to source some hoses that fit.
>
> Thanks, for any help,
>
> Russ
>
>
>

CK only sells through dealers, but every welding supplier will have
their parts breakdowns.
They use several different connectors depending on the amperage of the
torch.
You don't have to buy the superflex cables (I would), since they still
sell the normal vinyl ones.

Posted by HC on July 8, 2008, 1:17 pm
Please log in for more thread options
Ernie, thank you for your reply. I'm sorry it's taken so long to get
back to this.

I talked to the guy at Airgas and he's trying to sell me a Weldcraft
TIG torch claiming that is what Miller uses. The one in particular is
a the WP17V25-2. It's an air/gas cooled torch. I'm waiting for a
call from the guy there to ask some more questions about torches
(about the Weldcraft and the CK). I have an e-mail in to Weldcraft
asking if that torch has the Gas Lens Collet Body you have
recommended. I have an e-mail from CK with a list of distributors so
I can maybe get someone more motivated to sell me that brand instead
of the Weldcraft.

I found a Victor regulator like what I think you are referring to;
it's a HRF1425-580.

I have a bottle of argon that I use with my spool gun for welding
aluminum, so I'm covered on that (I'll just replace the twin-dial
regulator with the ball-and-tube type for TIG). What I intend to TIG
(or *try* to TIG) is on the hinges I build from 1/4 inch steel with a
19/32 inch hole drilled in it with a piece of 9/16 inch hot-roll rod
through it; it leaves a very tiny gap and I get more metal buildup
than I want with the MIG (looks like a donut on the side of the
hinge): I hope to just melt the material and let it run together with
no filler metal (autogenous (I've been reading Wikipedia)). I may
decide to try to TIG the hinges to the smoker to improve the
appearance of that those highly-visible welds; so that would be 1/4
inch steel to a similar or thicker steel piece. With that in mind,
what size electrode would you recommend?

Last Wednesday I met with a guy about my smokers and he is returning
tomorrow with the owner of the company (oilfield services) to put a
down payment on one of the smokers. If that actually happens then
I'll be in good shape to purchase this welder and TIG stuff. If
they're just blowhards then this will have to wait.

Okay, underwater welding. Wouldn't that be like the welding
equivalent of being a rock star? That's serious stuff. That's gotta
be a complicated job combining diving and welding. I'm impressed.

Thank you again for all your help, time, and information.

--HC



> In article
>
> > Hey, Ernie, any recommendations on what hardwareI should buy to run
> > TIG from this machine?
>
> Air cooled... CK210 valve body torch, from CK Worldwide.
> Water cooled... CK230 Flex-head valve body torch.
> You will need a flow-gauge for the argon bottle.
> Smith ball-and-tube flow gauges are the best, but not the most compact.
> Victor and Western make more compact versions, but stick with a
> ball-and-tube type.
> Gas lens collet bodies, and Lanthanated tungstens.
>
> > Which, if I may ask, school to you teach for and what area of the
> > country is it located in?
>
> > --HC
>
> I am the Topside Welding Instructor for the Divers Institute of
> Technology in Seattle, WA.
>
> www.diversinstitute.com
>
> Topside means I teach them to weld when they are NOT in the water.
>
> We train commercial divers, mostly for the petroleum industry, but
> there is also a lot of inland work in ports, bridges, piers, dams,
> powerplants, reservoirs...
>
> I am also a Certified Weld Inspector, Non-Destructive Testing
> instructor, and a very serious cook.
>
>
>
> > > The =A0Dynasty 200 DX is a full fledged TIG machine with AC and DC
> > > capability.
> > > It is a very nice machine, but does not have near the duty cycle or
> > > amperage output of the CST 280 in stick mode.
>
> > > The Dynasty 200DX is a very nice machine, but for the heavy stick
> > > welding you are describing, the CST 280 is superior.
> > > I have had a Maxstar 200DX for 8 years and love it.
> > > The Maxstar is the DC only version of the Dynasty.
> > > If you need super portability and the widest range imaginable of inpu=
t
> > > voltages, the Maxstar and Dynasty 200's win hands down with the abili=
ty
> > > to run on anything from 80 to 500 volts, single or 3 phase, 50 or 60
> > > hertz.
> > > The CST 280 is a 220/440 single or 3 phase machine.
> > > It is primarily a Stick welder, but will do very nice DC TIG welding.
>
> > > I still feel the CST 280 is the better machine for you.
>
> > > In article
HC
>
>
> > > > Any thoughts, good or bad, on the other Miller "combo" units such a=
s
> > > > the Dynasty 200 they list under TIG machines? =A0They claim it will=
do
> > > > stick and TIG but list it under the TIG secstion of their catalog. =
=A0I
> > > > ask because, after another session in the shop today, I am wonderin=
g
> > > > (dreaming) that maybe TIG would help me have better results on some=
of
> > > > my finer welding (like hinges and door straps) and, if I'm going to
> > > > pony up the cash to buy a new unit, I would like it to be the best =
it
> > > > can be. =A0I've welded aluminum one time only so I 'm not worried a=
bout
> > > > needing to TIG aluminum, just mild steel. =A0So, the CST 280 can do=
TIG
> > > > but is listed under the Stick section of their catalog but the Dyna=
sty
> > > > 200 DX is listed under the TIG section of their catalog and can do
> > > > Stick. =A0 Ah, who knows, I think the marketing people make it this
> > > > confusing on purpose.
>
> > > > :)
>
> > > > --HC
>
> > > > Thanks again and I don't know
>
> > > > > In article
> > > > > <db3333f9-7ab7-4113-9464-cfaade0e6...@27g2000hsf.googlegroups.com=
>, HC
>
> > > > > > Hey, Ernie, thank you for your reply.
>
> > > > > > I looked that machine up and it sounds good to me. =A0I like th=
e lower
> > > > > > power consumption over the transformer/traditional styles. =A0I=
t's cool
> > > > > > that it could do some TIG work as, while I was working in the s=
hop
> > > > > > yesterday, I was wondering if that process might work better fo=
r some
> > > > > > work I'm doing where I do short welds in an open area and my MI=
G is
> > > > > > leaving too much metal (even with the wire speed adjusted down)=
.
> > > > > > Since I do all my work in the shop a generator machine isn't go=
ing to
> > > > > > do what I need; I have extended periods of setup and then inter=
mittent
> > > > > > welds to make so a grid-supplied unit is ideal.
>
> > > > > > I'm not sure what part of the country you're in but I get my tr=
ailer
> > > > > > kits (axle, springs, hubs, bearings, hitch, et cetera) from
> > > > > > abctrailerparts.com in Alabama (I'm in Texas). =A0It's a small =
outfit, I
> > > > > > think just the one guy, Randy, but he's been good to take care =
of my
> > > > > > orders for several years and the one time I had a problem with =
an axle
> > > > > > he got it taken care of. =A0If you contact him, tell him Hartfo=
rd sent
> > > > > > you. =A0It won't get either of us a break on the price but it w=
ill
> > > > > > spread goodwill with him knowing I pointed business his way.
>
> > > > > > Just in case you've never done it, don't use an old propane tan=
k if
> > > > > > you can help it. =A0Whatever they put in those things to make t=
he
> > > > > > propane smell is tenacious; I cut one up to make a charcoal coo=
ker and
> > > > > > I took it to the car wash and pressure washed the inside (after=
I had
> > > > > > it cut open) and then make my cooker from it. =A0It still smell=
ed bad. I
> > > > > > had to build a couple of wood fires in it to get a coating on i=
t and
> > > > > > I'm not convinced that I couldn't still smell that stuff some; =
I never
> > > > > > cooked on it. =A0I did, however, not find any evidence of the "=
pockets
> > > > > > of gas" that everyone around here claim remain in the tank; the
> > > > > > propane had long since vacated the tank, it was jut the stink t=
hat was
> > > > > > left.
>
> > > > > > Thanks again.
>
> > > > > > --HC
>
> > > > > The chemical is called Methyl Mercaptan.
> > > > > It is one of the stinkiest things on earth.
>
> > > > > The only way I know to get rid of it is it burn it out with a BIG
> > > > > rosebud tip.
>
> > > > > For the home smoker I am building the main tank is going to be a =
100
> > > > > gallon air tank.
> > > > > The smoker I built last year at school is a 300 gallon air tank t=
hat
> > > > > came from our air system.
> > > > > The BIG tank at school is a 500 gallon air tank I found at the ju=
nk
> > > > > yard for scrap price of around $180.
>
ote:
> > > > > > > OK to sum up you fried your little Stickmate, and would like =
to
> > > > > > > upgrade
> > > > > > > to something bigger.
> > > > > > > You have reasonably stable mains power, but not a lot of it.
>
> > > > > > > On the machines you list, any of the transformer machines wou=
ld
> > > > > > > work,
> > > > > > > but I would avoid the shopmate like the plague.
> > > > > > > Miller invented that machine for schools, and that is where i=
t
> > > > > > > should
> > > > > > > stay.
>
> > > > > > > The best machine that I can recommend is the Miller CST280 in=
verter.
>
> > > > > > >http://www.millerwelds.com/products/stick/cst-280/
>
> > > > > > > List price is around $2300, but the real price is more like $=
1900.
> > > > > > > I bought one for my school 2.5 years ago and it has been a wo=
rkhorse
> > > > > > > ever since.
> > > > > > > Absolutely excellent stick welder, and can be used for basic =
TIG.
> > > > > > > It can use a foot pedal, but does not have high freq. start, =
AC
> > > > > > > output,
> > > > > > > or a gas valve.
> > > > > > > You can use a gas valve body TIG torch and it does have lift =
arc
> > > > > > > start.
> > > > > > > Aluminum up to 1/8" can be TIG welded using DC Electrode Posi=
tive,
> > > > > > > and
> > > > > > > a very large tungsten.
>
> > > > > > > The best bit is the power efficiency.
> > > > > > > It makes 6010 rod crackle with joy, and runs 7018 at a purr.
>
> > > > > > > At school we run it for extended periods of 180 - 210 amps ou=
tput
> > > > > > > and
> > > > > > > it has never complained once.
>
> > > > > > > I put it above all the transformers you listed, and also Linc=
oln's
> > > > > > > comparable inverter machine, simply because Miller has invert=
ers
> > > > > > > down
> > > > > > > pat.
>
> > > > > > > You will love the portability.
>
> > > > > > > The other viable option would be a generator machine, but wit=
h fuel
> > > > > > > prices soaring I am not sure how that would effect your botto=
m line.
>
> > > > > > > BTW I built a HUGE smoker/BBQ for the school from an old 300 =
gallon
> > > > > > > air
> > > > > > > tank.
> > > > > > > Works great.
> > > > > > > I have a 500 gallon tank I am tempted to build into a trailer
> > > > > > > mounted
> > > > > > > Smoker/BBQ.
>
> > > > > > > In article
> > > > > > > <cfba7f53-52b1-4642-bdc0-7bb635da0...@8g2000hse.googlegroups.=
com>,
> > > > > > > HC
>
> > > > > > > > Someone named/going by Steamboat Ed (steamer) read the foll=
owing
> > > > > > > > post
> > > > > > > > I had put in rec.metalworking and said I should post it her=
e and
> > > > > > > > ask
> > > > > > > > Ernie so here it is below. =A0Thank anyone for your time. =
=A0I
> > > > > > > > basically
> > > > > > > > got two responses over there and only one really tried to a=
ddress
> > > > > > > > my
> > > > > > > > base question which is about a couple of machines I'm think=
ing of
> > > > > > > > buying to replace my current welder.
>
> > > > > > > > Original post below------
>
> > > > > > > > Hey, all, I currently have a Hobart Stickmate 235/160 AC/DC
> > > > > > > > machine
> > > > > > > > and I am thinking of buying a larger machine; what I'd like=
is to
> > > > > > > > know
> > > > > > > > thoughts and opinions about what would be a good machine to=
get.
>
> > > > > > > > I mostly do hobby welding but that may include hours of con=
tinuous
> > > > > > > > welding (I sometimes, rarely, will weld for a couple of hou=
rs non-
> > > > > > > > stop). =A0I build smokers and have also built metal bracket=
s to use
> > > > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > raise my concrete foundation on my house (and lots of other
> > > > > > > > projects),
> > > > > > > > and almost all the material I weld on is 1/4 inch to 3/8 in=
ch
> > > > > > > > thick.
> > > > > > > > Mostly I use 6010 or 6011 rods which are 1/8 inch diameter,
>
> ...
>
> read more =BB- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


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