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Posted by HC on July 28, 2008, 11:32 pm
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> > In article
>
> > > Ernie, thank you for your reply. I'm sorry it's taken so long to get
> > > back to this.
>
> > > I talked to the guy at Airgas and he's trying to sell me a Weldcraft
> > > TIG torch claiming that is what Miller uses.
>
> > That is because Miller's parent company , ITW, bought weldcraft a few
> > years ago.
> > They do make good torches.
> > I just prefer CK.
>
> > > The one in particular is
> > > a the WP17V25-2. It's an air/gas cooled torch. I'm waiting for a
> > > call from the guy there to ask some more questions about torches
> > > (about the Weldcraft and the CK). I have an e-mail in to Weldcraft
> > > asking if that torch has the Gas Lens Collet Body you have
> > > recommended.
>
> > Any collet body can be used on any torch as long as it is the right
> > series.
>
> > A weldcraft gas cup, a CK torch body, a Tec torch collet body, a
> > Heliarc back cap and a National Torch Tip collet will all fit together
> > if they are the same series.
> > Series 2 are 120 amp air cooled, or 200 amp water cooled.
> > Series 3 are up to 200 amp air cooled and 400 amp water cooled.
>
> > Both torch series were standardized back in the 50's by Union Carbide
> > (later known as Linde), and everybody has copied them since.
>
> > > I have an e-mail from CK with a list of distributors so
> > > I can maybe get someone more motivated to sell me that brand instead
> > > of the Weldcraft.
>
> > > I found a Victor regulator like what I think you are referring to;
> > > it's a HRF1425-580.
>
> > > I have a bottle of argon that I use with my spool gun for welding
> > > aluminum, so I'm covered on that (I'll just replace the twin-dial
> > > regulator with the ball-and-tube type for TIG). What I intend to TIG
> > > (or *try* to TIG) is on the hinges I build from 1/4 inch steel with a
> > > 19/32 inch hole drilled in it with a piece of 9/16 inch hot-roll rod
> > > through it; it leaves a very tiny gap and I get more metal buildup
> > > than I want with the MIG (looks like a donut on the side of the
> > > hinge): I hope to just melt the material and let it run together with
> > > no filler metal (autogenous (I've been reading Wikipedia)).
>
> > The metal has to be REALLY clean to do this with TIG on steel.
>
> > > I may
> > > decide to try to TIG the hinges to the smoker to improve the
> > > appearance of that those highly-visible welds; so that would be 1/4
> > > inch steel to a similar or thicker steel piece. With that in mind,
> > > what size electrode would you recommend?
>
> > 1/8" tungsten, and at least a 3/32" filler rod.
>
> > > Last Wednesday I met with a guy about my smokers and he is returning
> > > tomorrow with the owner of the company (oilfield services) to put a
> > > down payment on one of the smokers. If that actually happens then
> > > I'll be in good shape to purchase this welder and TIG stuff. If
> > > they're just blowhards then this will have to wait.
>
> > > Okay, underwater welding. Wouldn't that be like the welding
> > > equivalent of being a rock star? That's serious stuff. That's gotta
> > > be a complicated job combining diving and welding. I'm impressed.
>
> > > Thank you again for all your help, time, and information.
>
> > > --HC
>
> > I don't weld underwater.
> > The students do that.
> > I teach them how to weld when they are NOT in the water.
> > Willie Wilson teaches them the wet stuff.
> > Although this week, and next, I am teaching NDT.
>
> > <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nondestructive_testing>
>
> > > > In article
HC
>
> > > > > Hey, Ernie, any recommendations on what hardwareI should buy to r=
un
> > > > > TIG from this machine?
>
> > > > Air cooled... CK210 valve body torch, from CK Worldwide.
> > > > Water cooled... CK230 Flex-head valve body torch.
> > > > You will need a flow-gauge for the argon bottle.
> > > > Smith ball-and-tube flow gauges are the best, but not the most comp=
act.
> > > > Victor and Western make more compact versions, but stick with a
> > > > ball-and-tube type.
> > > > Gas lens collet bodies, and Lanthanated tungstens.
>
> > > > > Which, if I may ask, school to you teach for and what area of the
> > > > > country is it located in?
>
> > > > > --HC
>
> > > > I am the Topside Welding Instructor for the Divers Institute of
> > > > Technology in Seattle, WA.
>
> > > >www.diversinstitute.com
>
> > > > Topside means I teach them to weld when they are NOT in the water.
>
> > > > We train commercial divers, mostly for the petroleum industry, but
> > > > there is also a lot of inland work in ports, bridges, piers, dams,
> > > > powerplants, reservoirs...
>
> > > > I am also a Certified Weld Inspector, Non-Destructive Testing
> > > > instructor, and a very serious cook.
>
> > > > > > The Dynasty 200 DX is a full fledged TIG machine with AC and D=
C
> > > > > > capability.
> > > > > > It is a very nice machine, but does not have near the duty cycl=
e or
> > > > > > amperage output of the CST 280 in stick mode.
>
> > > > > > The Dynasty 200DX is a very nice machine, but for the heavy sti=
ck
> > > > > > welding you are describing, the CST 280 is superior.
> > > > > > I have had a Maxstar 200DX for 8 years and love it.
> > > > > > The Maxstar is the DC only version of the Dynasty.
> > > > > > If you need super portability and the widest range imaginable o=
f input
> > > > > > voltages, the Maxstar and Dynasty 200's win hands down with the=
ability
> > > > > > to run on anything from 80 to 500 volts, single or 3 phase, 50 =
or 60
> > > > > > hertz.
> > > > > > The CST 280 is a 220/440 single or 3 phase machine.
> > > > > > It is primarily a Stick welder, but will do very nice DC TIG we=
lding.
>
> > > > > > I still feel the CST 280 is the better machine for you.
>
> > > > > > In article
> > > > > > <f70374f2-10b1-4350-a50d-2cb486b52...@y38g2000hsy.googlegroups.=
com>, HC
>
>
> > > > > > > Any thoughts, good or bad, on the other Miller "combo" units =
such as
> > > > > > > the Dynasty 200 they list under TIG machines? They claim it =
will do
> > > > > > > stick and TIG but list it under the TIG secstion of their cat=
alog. I
> > > > > > > ask because, after another session in the shop today, I am wo=
ndering
> > > > > > > (dreaming) that maybe TIG would help me have better results o=
n some of
> > > > > > > my finer welding (like hinges and door straps) and, if I'm go=
ing to
> > > > > > > pony up the cash to buy a new unit, I would like it to be the=
best it
> > > > > > > can be. I've welded aluminum one time only so I 'm not worri=
ed about
> > > > > > > needing to TIG aluminum, just mild steel. So, the CST 280 ca=
n do TIG
> > > > > > > but is listed under the Stick section of their catalog but th=
e Dynasty
> > > > > > > 200 DX is listed under the TIG section of their catalog and c=
an do
> > > > > > > Stick. Ah, who knows, I think the marketing people make it =
this
> > > > > > > confusing on purpose.
>
> > > > > > > :)
>
> > > > > > > --HC
>
> > > > > > > Thanks again and I don't know
>
rote:
> > > > > > > > In article
> > > > > > > > <db3333f9-7ab7-4113-9464-cfaade0e6...@27g2000hsf.googlegrou=
ps.com>,
> > > > > > > > HC
>
> > > > > > > > > Hey, Ernie, thank you for your reply.
>
> > > > > > > > > I looked that machine up and it sounds good to me. I lik=
e the
> > > > > > > > > lower
> > > > > > > > > power consumption over the transformer/traditional styles=
. It's
> > > > > > > > > cool
> > > > > > > > > that it could do some TIG work as, while I was working in=
the shop
> > > > > > > > > yesterday, I was wondering if that process might work bet=
ter for
> > > > > > > > > some
> > > > > > > > > work I'm doing where I do short welds in an open area and=
my MIG
> > > > > > > > > is
> > > > > > > > > leaving too much metal (even with the wire speed adjusted=
down).
> > > > > > > > > Since I do all my work in the shop a generator machine is=
n't
> > > > > > > > > going to
> > > > > > > > > do what I need; I have extended periods of setup and then
> > > > > > > > > intermittent
> > > > > > > > > welds to make so a grid-supplied unit is ideal.
>
> > > > > > > > > I'm not sure what part of the country you're in but I get=
my
> > > > > > > > > trailer
> > > > > > > > > kits (axle, springs, hubs, bearings, hitch, et cetera) fr=
om
> > > > > > > > > abctrailerparts.com in Alabama (I'm in Texas). It's a sm=
all
> > > > > > > > > outfit, I
> > > > > > > > > think just the one guy, Randy, but he's been good to take=
care of
> > > > > > > > > my
> > > > > > > > > orders for several years and the one time I had a problem=
with an
> > > > > > > > > axle
> > > > > > > > > he got it taken care of. If you contact him, tell him Ha=
rtford
> > > > > > > > > sent
> > > > > > > > > you. It won't get either of us a break on the price but =
it will
> > > > > > > > > spread goodwill with him knowing I pointed business his w=
ay.
>
> > > > > > > > > Just in case you've never done it, don't use an old propa=
ne tank
> > > > > > > > > if
> > > > > > > > > you can help it. Whatever they put in those things to ma=
ke the
> > > > > > > > > propane smell is tenacious; I cut one up to make a charco=
al
> > > > > > > > > cooker and
> > > > > > > > > I took it to the car wash and pressure washed the inside =
(after I
> > > > > > > > > had
> > > > > > > > > it cut open) and then make my cooker from it. It still s=
melled
> > > > > > > > > bad. I
> > > > > > > > > had to build a couple of wood fires in it to get a coatin=
g on it
> > > > > > > > > and
> > > > > > > > > I'm not convinced that I couldn't still smell that stuff =
some; I
> > > > > > > > > never
> > > > > > > > > cooked on it. I did, however, not find any evidence of t=
he
> > > > > > > > > "pockets
> > > > > > > > > of gas" that everyone around here claim remain in the tan=
k; the
> > > > > > > > > propane had long since vacated the tank, it was jut the s=
tink
> > > > > > > > > that was
> > > > > > > > > left.
>
> > > > > > > > > Thanks again.
>
> > > > > > > > > --HC
>
> > > > > > > > The chemical is called Methyl Mercaptan.
> > > > > > > > It is one of the stinkiest things on earth.
>
> > > > > > > > The only way I know to get rid of it is it burn it out with=
a BIG
> > > > > > > > rosebud tip.
>
> > ...
>
> > read more =BB
>
> Hey, Ernie, I got the CST 280 about 10 days ago but then had to spend
> 4 days out of town so I have not had much time to play with it. I am
> finishing up a smoker and have been using it on that. The first day I
> played with the welding machine I just tried my various rods on scrap;
> 6013, 6011, 6010, 7014, 7018. Everything seemed fine. However I have
> a problem now and I wanted to run it past you and the group.
>
> On the "real" welding (on the smoker) I've been using 6010 5P+ 1/8"
> rods (Lincoln Electric) and 7018 1/8" rods (Forney). On both rods I'm
> getting surface pitting and voids in my weld beads. They are somewhat
> similar to what my MIG welder does when it's run with too little or no
> shield gas. The 7018 rods are brand new out of a sealed package but
> of unknown age (purchased from a business that was closing). The 6010
> 5P+ are the same rods I've used for a couple of years from the same
> package. I have run root passes with the 6010 5P+ which are flat butt
> joints, overhead fillets, and downhill fillets. I have run caps over
> both the 6010 5P+ and my wire welding with the 7018. The worst I've
> seen was yesterday while welding up a stick of 2" x 2" x 1/4" angle
> vertically onto a piece of 1/4 inch steel. I was welding the inside
> curve of the angle and it should have been easy but at the end of the
> weld (where the angle and the base piece terminated) I got a spongy-
> looking mess, very reminiscent of a poor MIG weld. Sometimes I even
> get a little "egg" growing on top of the welds at the end, similar to
> when I run my MIG welder with too little shield gas. And finally, I
> have noticed with the 6010 5P+ I am having the arc blow out to the
> side and not remain constant from the tip of the stick.
>
> All of this has been done on 1/4 inch thick mild steel. I have been
> running the 6010 5P+ at about 90 amps in the XX10 Stiff setting, and
> the 7018's in the XX18 Soft setting. I could hook up my old Hobart
> welder for comparison but I used the cables from it on the new
> Miller. But I never remember having problems like this with my old
> Hobart. Could it be the CST 280? I wouldn't think so, it's just a
> power supply but what do I know?
>
> Thanks for your time and any advice.
>
> --HC
Sorry, one detail, this has all been with the machine on reverse
polarity (electrode positive).
--HC
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> back to this.
>
> I talked to the guy at Airgas and he's trying to sell me a Weldcraft
> TIG torch claiming that is what Miller uses.