Gas Tank

> An idea to ponder - attaching a CO2 horn with tape and dumping the
> tank into the gas tank. It should condense fumes, (would freeze
> moisture)
> and likely be plenty to smoke out a hole.
>
> The bad news other than the ice, is it might crack any rubber hoses used
> to/from the tank that are exposed. [ so discard this idea ]
>
> So I'd discard this way and maybe talk to the guys that smoke houses
> looking
> for air leaks. Insulation engineers.
>
> Martin
>
>
> Martin H. Eastburn
> @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
> TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
> NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
> IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
> http://lufkinced.com/
>
>
> Gary Pewitt wrote:

>> When both tanks in my '90 Ford half ton started leaking I took it to
>> the dealer and he gave it a smoke test. No not with a candle. He had
>> a machine that generated smoke (without flame) and fed it into the
>> tanks under a little preasure. Turned out that the tank straps had
>> worn through the tops of the tanks and they were leaking out of the
>> top when nearly full and the truck was turned or braked. You could
>> see the smoke coming out of the leaks quite easily. You might try to
>> find a -safe- way to generate some smoke or just take
>> it to a dealer shop that has a machine. Doesn't have to be a Mazda
>> dealer. I had an '86 Mazda RX7 Turbo II, nice car as long as it ran.
>> 73 Gary
>>
>>
>>
>> wrote:
>>

>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Ok, at 4$ + per gallon I can't ignore this any more. I have a gas
>>>>> tank that
>>>>> leaks when I turn to the right and it is more than half full. The
>>>>> filler
>>>>> tube is my suspect since it is on that side. When I tackle this job I
>>>>> would
>>>>> only be too happy to find that the overflow tube or filler tube has a
>>>>> crack
>>>>> in it after 26 years of service. However I have to drop the tank out
>>>>> to
>>>>> inspect it and when I do I want to be ready for anything....short of
>>>>> buying
>>>>> a new tank in advance. My main concern is that the upper surface of
>>>>> the
>>>>> tank is hidden from view/inspection unless you remove it from the car.
>>>>> So
>>>>> once I have effected a repair on the leak I do not want take it apart
>>>>> again
>>>>> in the near future.
>>>>
>>>> It is very likely that its the rubber overflow or return line thats
>>>> cracked or leaking, or the rubber boot (if one) between the filler
>>>> neck and the tank body.
>>>>
>>>> Ive owned two trucks where both of those finally cracked and started
>>>> leaking on turns or when filling up to full.
>>>>
>>> The more I drive the tank empty it leaks less and only on a right hand
>>> turn...so the fuel is sloshing towards the driver's side which is the
>>> same side the filler is on. The access is terrible and I doubt I can
>>> take off the rubberboot (as you call it) without cutting it off. the
>>> overfill/vent tube is smaller and I will start there. If I cut the boot
>>> off I might get lucky and find the hole but still likely going to have
>>> to drop the tank to replace it.
>>>
>>> Here is a thought to further pinpoint where it is leaking. If I were to
>>> remove the vent tube and simply wrap the boot with duct tape it should
>>> seal any leaks until the glue on the tape lets go. Perhaps a plastic
>>> baggy wrapped around the hose then duct tape to hold that firmly in
>>> place and a quick trip around the block. No leaks would mean in the
>>> sealed section of the hose...well wouldn't it???