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Posted by Martin H. Eastburn on May 2, 2008, 9:10 pm
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No, since the very or extremely thin layer might explode or vaporize.
It acts as a fuse.
The sold ones are more than a e.t.l. of metal. The measure would be in
so many circular mils of metal. Acting like a solid wire that melts.
The steel acts as a strong holder for a conductor.
I've consulted with about 8 or 9 power companies and two are huge in size.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/
Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
> On Thu, 01 May 2008 20:42:06 -0500, "Martin H. Eastburn"
>
>> The copper clad can carry hundreds of amps when asked upon. The steel can't.
>> Electrons flow on the skin. A clamp on the outside puts or gets electrons
>> to or from the ground.
>
> Just a quick question here. If the extremely thin electroplated
> coating on a steel ground rod will carry hundreds of amps, as you say,
> hows come my 250 amp welder has them big thick cables coming out the
> front, there?
>
>
> Bruce-in-Bangkok
> (correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)
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Posted by Derek on May 1, 2008, 1:42 pm
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SteveB wrote:
> Today, a friend called me who was doing a project. They had a copper coated
> steel rod about 5/8" dia. that was to be used as a ground rod for
> electrical. They had no means of bending it, as it had to make a couple of
> three doglegs to get around concrete. I told him that heating it would melt
> the copper, and did not know if the inspector would pass it with the copper
> gone. He said that was what the inspector told him to do. We'll see. If
> it works, okay, if it doesn't, I'll set up a jig and bend it cold.
>
> Now to the point. As I heated the copper, I noticed a beautiful color
> change. Like peacock colors. Would it be possible to dissolve copper into
> a solution, possibly using acid or electrolysis, then have the copper be
> deposited on metal sheeting so that it could be heated again to get the
> iridescent hues?
>
> I've read a lot about electrolytic removal of rust, and it seems pretty
> straightforward. This would be (?) a two step process. I'm going to Google
> up on it. Anyone ever try it?
>
> Steve
>
Rather than attempting the improbable you can get the iridescence by
passivating the copper deposited on your material.This involves a short
dip in a dilute chromic solution Potassium Dichromate is a good
candidate and you can get a similar effect on bright zinc it is a
process used to reduce the reactivity of the surface layer of
electroplated materials. If my memory serves we used to
derust electrolitically using a sodium hydroxide solution with
a small quantity of surfactant to wet the job. That was a long
time ago approx 30 years so the details are not that fresh when
I was a lab technician at GKN Hilton and Tuck Electroplating
Division in the UK
Derek
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Posted by theChas on May 1, 2008, 3:20 pm
Please log in for more thread options <snip>
> Today, a friend called me who was doing a project. They had a copper
> coated steel rod about 5/8" dia. that was to be used as a ground rod for
> electrical. They had no means of bending it, as it had to make a couple
> of three doglegs to get around concrete. I told him that heating it would
> melt the copper, and did not know if the inspector would pass it with the
> copper gone. He said that was what the inspector told him to do. We'll
> see. If it works, okay, if it doesn't, I'll set up a jig and bend it
> cold.
*********
Code in my area calls for each ground rod to be driven straight into the
ground (approx. 6.5 feet). If ones house system is not grounded onto a
municiple iron pipe water system, then two such ground rods are needed, 6
feet apart, connected by an unbroken #8 bare copper solid wire to each other
and the meter. If connected to a water system, then no ground rod(s) are
needed.
If the ground wire between the two rods, and the meter is not encased in PVC
conduit, then the metal conduits have to be grounded to the bare wire also.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
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Posted by SteveB on May 2, 2008, 1:02 pm
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> <snip>
>> Today, a friend called me who was doing a project. They had a copper
>> coated steel rod about 5/8" dia. that was to be used as a ground rod for
>> electrical. They had no means of bending it, as it had to make a couple
>> of three doglegs to get around concrete. I told him that heating it
>> would melt the copper, and did not know if the inspector would pass it
>> with the copper gone. He said that was what the inspector told him to
>> do. We'll see. If it works, okay, if it doesn't, I'll set up a jig and
>> bend it cold.
> *********
> Code in my area calls for each ground rod to be driven straight into the
> ground (approx. 6.5 feet). If ones house system is not grounded onto a
> municiple iron pipe water system, then two such ground rods are needed, 6
> feet apart, connected by an unbroken #8 bare copper solid wire to each
> other and the meter. If connected to a water system, then no ground
> rod(s) are needed.
> If the ground wire between the two rods, and the meter is not encased in
> PVC conduit, then the metal conduits have to be grounded to the bare wire
> also.
>
>
>
> ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
I informed them when I did the work that it may not pass. I have no idea
why they didn't just come out from the concrete and pound them in.
Steve
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Posted by Bruce L. Bergman on May 3, 2008, 1:02 am
Please log in for more thread options On Fri, 2 May 2008 09:02:28 -0800, "SteveB"
>I informed them when I did the work that it may not pass. I have no idea
>why they didn't just come out from the concrete and pound them in.
Because they would create a tripping hazard, and you are not
supposed to have a ground like that right in front of the panel where
you would make contact while resetting a breaker.
Simple solution - bury the conduit to the ground rod off to one side
a few feet, and put the clamp below grade in a plastic or concrete
handhole. You can order it with "Ground Rod" on the cover.
And if they ever pave the area, they just raise the handhole up a
bit to sit at finished grade, and then it's always accessible.
NOTE: On new homes they just make a "UFER Ground" bond to the steel
in the footing. Much neater, as it's all hidden in the wall.
--<< Bruce >>--
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