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Posted by Gunner Asch on July 4, 2008, 9:16 pm
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Still couldnt get that Continental F-163 engine unfrozen, so had to
pull the head....yes..it had at one point gotten water in it...
http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/Miller55G
Nothing seems to be badly damaged...but some valves appear to be
frozen, as well as at least one piston..the worst is #1..the one with
the fluid in the bottom of it in the above pictures.
I left 5 studs broken off in the block getting the head off...but
there are a fair number of threads standing above the block, that I
can probably weld nuts on them and work them out...Crom..I hope so..
Any suggestions other than threading on nuts and then welding them on
and hoping the heat loosens them up? I used a pick yesterday to clear
some of the rust around them, and sprayed PBlaster in the gaps..along
with the valves
I took a chunk of wood, and a hammer and tapped each piston firmly,
repeatedly spraying PBlaster around the sides of the pistons. Two of
them appeared to not be frozen, the third (far right) may be so, but
the far left one is still pretty much solid.
Cylinder walls on the right one, is smooth, has no ridge, no scratches
and is well polished, may have been honed at one point with a ball
hone..or there is no wear at 2400 hours. Left cylinder has surface
rust, not real thiick and a quick pass with a wire brush in a circular
motion got down to polished wall . Down low...shrug..it may well be
pretty pitted.
At this point..I think Im going to have to put the machine up on
blocks so I can drop the pan, disconnect the conn rods from the crank
and drive out the pistons from the bottom....I dont think they will
come out the bottom, will they?
Ill get a fine wire wheel and wire "bob" and do the faces of the block
and the head, and get out the crud and carbon from the various
recesses. Unless someone has a better idea?
Im not an engine guy...this is the 2nd or 3rd one Ive ever pulled down
this far by myself, fortunately this is a stone simple engine
Any suggestions at this point would be greatly appreciated
Gunner
Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
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Posted by Ignoramus19668 on July 4, 2008, 9:49 pm
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Ouch. Sorry to hear this.
i
> Still couldnt get that Continental F-163 engine unfrozen, so had to
> pull the head....yes..it had at one point gotten water in it...
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/Miller55G
>
> Nothing seems to be badly damaged...but some valves appear to be
> frozen, as well as at least one piston..the worst is #1..the one with
> the fluid in the bottom of it in the above pictures.
>
> I left 5 studs broken off in the block getting the head off...but
> there are a fair number of threads standing above the block, that I
> can probably weld nuts on them and work them out...Crom..I hope so..
>
> Any suggestions other than threading on nuts and then welding them on
> and hoping the heat loosens them up? I used a pick yesterday to clear
> some of the rust around them, and sprayed PBlaster in the gaps..along
> with the valves
>
> I took a chunk of wood, and a hammer and tapped each piston firmly,
> repeatedly spraying PBlaster around the sides of the pistons. Two of
> them appeared to not be frozen, the third (far right) may be so, but
> the far left one is still pretty much solid.
>
> Cylinder walls on the right one, is smooth, has no ridge, no scratches
> and is well polished, may have been honed at one point with a ball
> hone..or there is no wear at 2400 hours. Left cylinder has surface
> rust, not real thiick and a quick pass with a wire brush in a circular
> motion got down to polished wall . Down low...shrug..it may well be
> pretty pitted.
>
> At this point..I think Im going to have to put the machine up on
> blocks so I can drop the pan, disconnect the conn rods from the crank
> and drive out the pistons from the bottom....I dont think they will
> come out the bottom, will they?
>
> Ill get a fine wire wheel and wire "bob" and do the faces of the block
> and the head, and get out the crud and carbon from the various
> recesses. Unless someone has a better idea?
>
> Im not an engine guy...this is the 2nd or 3rd one Ive ever pulled down
> this far by myself, fortunately this is a stone simple engine
>
>
> Any suggestions at this point would be greatly appreciated
>
> Gunner
>
> Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
> illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
> unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
> proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
--
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to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
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posting on Usenet.
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Posted by Curt Welch on July 4, 2008, 11:49 pm
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> I left 5 studs broken off in the block getting the head off...but
> there are a fair number of threads standing above the block, that I
> can probably weld nuts on them and work them out...Crom..I hope so..
>
> Any suggestions other than threading on nuts and then welding them on
> and hoping the heat loosens them up? I used a pick yesterday to clear
> some of the rust around them, and sprayed PBlaster in the gaps..along
> with the valves
You can weld on nuts to the studs that are at the surface of the block as
well. Using MIG, just place a nut over the broken off stud and fill in the
inside hole. It can take a few tries before the stud comes out instead of
just breaking the weld when you turn the nut.
You can also use the trick of placing a washer over the stud hole and
welding the top of the broken off stud to the washer. That's easier than
trying to weld inside a deep nut. Then weld the nut on top of the washer
(inside mostly, but outside if you need to as well).
There's also the trick of using paraffin wax to get a rusted bolt out.
It's like magic when it works. I've seen it used on oil galley plugs.
Plugs that couldn't be budged with massive force, and WD-40 or BP-Blaster
and heat came out so easy you could turn them out with your fingers using
paraffin wax.
The trick is to heat the stuck bolt with a torch until it's almost red hot,
then simply touch the block of wax to the bolt so it melts and wicks down
into the threads. Let it cool down until the wax hardens, and then try to
turn out the bolt. It comes out so easy it's absolutely shocking. I have
no idea why it works.
I don't know where you get paraffin wax. It's used in cooking for
chocolate and has been used for sealing caned food so I think you can get
it in blocks at some grocery stores. I don't know if it has to be paraffin
wax or if it will work with any old type of candle wax. I've only seen it
done with paraffin wax.
I've not seen this used for getting broken head studs out, but if I had
rusted bolts that weren't coming out with the welded on nut trick and PB
Blaster, I'd try it for that as well.
For an engine as badly messed up with rust as the one you are playing with,
I'd try the wax trick on anything that was frozen and not coming out.
--
Curt Welch http://CurtWelch.Com/
curt@kcwc.com http://NewsReader.Com/
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Posted by Michael A. Terrell on July 5, 2008, 2:22 am
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Curt Welch wrote:
>
>
> > I left 5 studs broken off in the block getting the head off...but
> > there are a fair number of threads standing above the block, that I
> > can probably weld nuts on them and work them out...Crom..I hope so..
> >
> > Any suggestions other than threading on nuts and then welding them on
> > and hoping the heat loosens them up? I used a pick yesterday to clear
> > some of the rust around them, and sprayed PBlaster in the gaps..along
> > with the valves
>
> You can weld on nuts to the studs that are at the surface of the block as
> well. Using MIG, just place a nut over the broken off stud and fill in the
> inside hole. It can take a few tries before the stud comes out instead of
> just breaking the weld when you turn the nut.
>
> You can also use the trick of placing a washer over the stud hole and
> welding the top of the broken off stud to the washer. That's easier than
> trying to weld inside a deep nut. Then weld the nut on top of the washer
> (inside mostly, but outside if you need to as well).
>
> There's also the trick of using paraffin wax to get a rusted bolt out.
> It's like magic when it works. I've seen it used on oil galley plugs.
> Plugs that couldn't be budged with massive force, and WD-40 or BP-Blaster
> and heat came out so easy you could turn them out with your fingers using
> paraffin wax.
>
> The trick is to heat the stuck bolt with a torch until it's almost red hot,
> then simply touch the block of wax to the bolt so it melts and wicks down
> into the threads. Let it cool down until the wax hardens, and then try to
> turn out the bolt. It comes out so easy it's absolutely shocking. I have
> no idea why it works.
>
> I don't know where you get paraffin wax. It's used in cooking for
> chocolate and has been used for sealing caned food so I think you can get
> it in blocks at some grocery stores. I don't know if it has to be paraffin
> wax or if it will work with any old type of candle wax. I've only seen it
> done with paraffin wax.
Try the grocery store. It is sold with the canning supplies as
'canning wax'. A one pound box was only a couple dollars about three
years ago. The box of paraffin I got was made by Gulf Oil. It looks like
some True Value hardware stores carry it, as well:
http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-50487/Detail $4.49
> I've not seen this used for getting broken head studs out, but if I had
> rusted bolts that weren't coming out with the welded on nut trick and PB
> Blaster, I'd try it for that as well.
>
> For an engine as badly messed up with rust as the one you are playing with,
> I'd try the wax trick on anything that was frozen and not coming out.
>
> --
> Curt Welch http://CurtWelch.Com/
> curt@kcwc.com http://NewsReader.Com/
--
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Posted by Balders on July 7, 2008, 5:02 am
Please log in for more thread options On 05 Jul 2008 03:49:07 GMT, Curt Welch wrote:
<snip>
> There's also the trick of using paraffin wax to get a rusted bolt out.
> It's like magic when it works. I've seen it used on oil galley plugs.
> Plugs that couldn't be budged with massive force, and WD-40 or BP-Blaster
> and heat came out so easy you could turn them out with your fingers using
> paraffin wax.
>
> The trick is to heat the stuck bolt with a torch until it's almost red hot,
> then simply touch the block of wax to the bolt so it melts and wicks down
> into the threads. Let it cool down until the wax hardens, and then try to
> turn out the bolt. It comes out so easy it's absolutely shocking. I have
> no idea why it works.
<snip>
I'd second the wax trick, use alongside WD40/Plusgas/whatever. For the wax
I've used household candles. If you quench the stud (not the block) after
welding with cold water it should contract slightly.
Gorilla welds are great for this ;) Also a pre-heat with a blow torch seems
to work
Wack a Stielson on to undo it.
I have old VW exhaust studs to thank for this trick.
Rec.crafts removed as I can't crosspost to it, sorry.
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> pull the head....yes..it had at one point gotten water in it...
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/Miller55G
>
> Nothing seems to be badly damaged...but some valves appear to be
> frozen, as well as at least one piston..the worst is #1..the one with
> the fluid in the bottom of it in the above pictures.
>
> I left 5 studs broken off in the block getting the head off...but
> there are a fair number of threads standing above the block, that I
> can probably weld nuts on them and work them out...Crom..I hope so..
>
> Any suggestions other than threading on nuts and then welding them on
> and hoping the heat loosens them up? I used a pick yesterday to clear
> some of the rust around them, and sprayed PBlaster in the gaps..along
> with the valves
>
> I took a chunk of wood, and a hammer and tapped each piston firmly,
> repeatedly spraying PBlaster around the sides of the pistons. Two of
> them appeared to not be frozen, the third (far right) may be so, but
> the far left one is still pretty much solid.
>
> Cylinder walls on the right one, is smooth, has no ridge, no scratches
> and is well polished, may have been honed at one point with a ball
> hone..or there is no wear at 2400 hours. Left cylinder has surface
> rust, not real thiick and a quick pass with a wire brush in a circular
> motion got down to polished wall . Down low...shrug..it may well be
> pretty pitted.
>
> At this point..I think Im going to have to put the machine up on
> blocks so I can drop the pan, disconnect the conn rods from the crank
> and drive out the pistons from the bottom....I dont think they will
> come out the bottom, will they?
>
> Ill get a fine wire wheel and wire "bob" and do the faces of the block
> and the head, and get out the crud and carbon from the various
> recesses. Unless someone has a better idea?
>
> Im not an engine guy...this is the 2nd or 3rd one Ive ever pulled down
> this far by myself, fortunately this is a stone simple engine
>
>
> Any suggestions at this point would be greatly appreciated
>
> Gunner
>
> Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
> illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
> unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
> proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.