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Posted by JohnM on October 26, 2007, 6:58 pm
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Balders wrote:
> On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 08:31:17 -0700, Grant Erwin wrote:
>
>
>> You want a machine that can deliver DC. For more penetration in the workpiece,
>> use DCEP. For less penetration (which you may well need here) you can try
DCEN.
>> Either way get the smallest electrodes you can find. 4mm is very thin for SMAW
>> unless you are quite skilled. I can't imagine a 110V MIG that can't handle
>> that thickness!
>
> Was pondering a DC inverter last night. That way I could do scratch start
> TIG.
> After I've restored my VW I'm going to (hopefully) modify a commercially
> available 4-1 stainless header to make it equal length. Subaru Impreza in a
> '78 VW Bus so nothing 'off the shelf' will fit.
Google "hydroforming", you'll see some cool stuff. A lot of times it's
easier to just build something instead of modifying..
John
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Posted by RoyJ on October 24, 2007, 12:52 pm
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Small stick welders are something that does not translate going across
the pond. But here goes: Since you have MIG, your main use for stick is
heavy stock. Your MIG should be good for 3/16" (4 mm) in a single pass,
any stick welder should be for 1/4" (6mm) and up. In a stick welder,
this means an honest 120 amps and up.
We have a lot of el cheapo "100 amp/120 volt" welders. I put them in
quotes since they just don't work that well. They are limited to under 2
kw input. In the US, you need to go to a 240 volt welder to get the
amperage you need. That gets you a welder with 200+ amps output
(something on the order of 5kw input)
DC is certainly nice but not worth a lot of extra money for the average
hobbyist welder. You can do most of the standard home hobbyist projects
and repairs with 6011, 6013, and 7018 rod, all run fine on AC.
Balders wrote:
> Hi guys & girls
>
> I'm looking to buy a "buzzbox" & have never stick welded before. I will be
> using it mainly for stuff that my 110A (240V) MIG won't handle.
> The project I'm looking at doing will involve welding 4mm thick hot rolled
> angle iron, lap, butt & T joints.
>
> I know nothing about what sort of amperage, machine or diameter of rods
> I'll require, so any advice is much appreciated. (A beginners guide would
> be fantastic too)
>
> I'm based in the UK (please don't let this stop you giving me advice) and
> have had a very brief look in Draper & Machine Mart catalogues. Are any of
> these worth having? I get a nice discount for Draper :)
>
> This isn't going to be used much BTW so I can't justify mega bucks on it.
>
>
> I have used MIG, O/A & a smidge of TIG. MIG being my main use.
>
> Many thanks.
>
> Keep up the good work on here, I love reading this forum
> *goes back to lurking*
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Posted by Balders on October 25, 2007, 5:52 am
Please log in for more thread options On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 11:52:56 -0500, RoyJ wrote:
> Small stick welders are something that does not translate going across
> the pond. But here goes: Since you have MIG, your main use for stick is
> heavy stock. Your MIG should be good for 3/16" (4 mm) in a single pass,
> any stick welder should be for 1/4" (6mm) and up. In a stick welder,
> this means an honest 120 amps and up.
>
> We have a lot of el cheapo "100 amp/120 volt" welders. I put them in
> quotes since they just don't work that well. They are limited to under 2
> kw input. In the US, you need to go to a 240 volt welder to get the
> amperage you need. That gets you a welder with 200+ amps output
> (something on the order of 5kw input)
>
> DC is certainly nice but not worth a lot of extra money for the average
> hobbyist welder. You can do most of the standard home hobbyist projects
> and repairs with 6011, 6013, and 7018 rod, all run fine on AC.
Thanks for that Roy.
Most of the stick work's going to be 3-4mm onto 3-4mm, box and angle.
I wouldn't be happy using the MIG. It only seems to give decent pen at
around 2mm. It's an old machine & I question its max output.
When I made an engine support bar from 3mm plate and 2mm box it was quite
tough going for it. That was using .8mm wire, CO2, not so good using
Argoshield Universal (75% Ar/24% CO2/2% O2)
It's great for bodywork though & it is staying
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Posted by TinLizziedl on October 25, 2007, 1:48 pm
Please log in for more thread options You could try grinding a bevel (not a knife edge, though) on the flat of
the angle iron then lay on a tapering fillet (almost like cladding it
together). Just an idea...
TL
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Posted by jp2express on October 26, 2007, 4:56 pm
Please log in for more thread options Balders,
You say you've use MIG quite a bit, the MIG unit you have won't cut 4mm, and
that's what you need.
So, why don't you get a new MIG gun? You could keep your older one for jobs
you're accustomed to, and pull out the new machine whenever you need to weld
2mm or more. Since you already know how to MIG, you could jump right in! A
light duty MIG welder should be able to lay a 4mm bead in one pass, and it
won't cost you too much either!
Sound like an idea?
~Joe
http://www.joeswelding.biz/
"Balders" wrote:
> I wouldn't be happy using the MIG. It only seems to give decent pen at
> around 2mm. It's an old machine & I question its max output.
>
> When I made an engine support bar from 3mm plate and 2mm box it was quite
> tough going for it. That was using .8mm wire, CO2, not so good using
> Argoshield Universal (75% Ar/24% CO2/2% O2)
> It's great for bodywork though & it is staying
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