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Posted by Vernon on April 8, 2007, 3:46 pm
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Ernie,
Sometime ago, I saw an old discussion on this problem, which you
attributed to a design defect in the electronic innards of the
Millermatic 250X.
I have one of these machines that I bought new. And I can attest that
it had this problem. With distressing regularity, upon beginning a
new weld, the wire would melt off inside the tip and stick there.
This would require me to stop, dismantle the gun and tip, and often
replace the tip. Then do it again.
In fact, that may be why, to this day, I detest the MIG process.
Some time ago, I bought a spool gun. I don't remember the model
number. But I believe I've seen you refer to it as the best spool gun
out there. But both items have been gathering dust in my closet for
some time.
Now I'm embarking on an ambitious fence building project for which the
machine would be the tool of choice provided I can count on it to work
reliably.
So, I have two questions for you (or anybody else):
a) Is the design problem fixable with a new board? In other words, if
I go to Miller can they give me any relief for the cost of a new
board?
b) Does this problem raise its ugly little haid with a spoolmatic gun
or just with the original gun the machine was equipped with?
I recently bought some heavy wall drill pipe. I hope to fab complete
sections of 8' fence by welding the uprights to the stanchions while
laid over on pipe stands. Then I'll pick 'em up with an all terrain
forklift and drop the sections into place.
So, is the 250X gonna do me any good? Or am I destined for an
exercise in frustration if I try to use it for this project?
Thanks and regards,
Vernon
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Posted by Ernie Leimkuhler on April 9, 2007, 9:27 am
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> Ernie,
>
> Sometime ago, I saw an old discussion on this problem, which you
> attributed to a design defect in the electronic innards of the
> Millermatic 250X.
>
> I have one of these machines that I bought new. And I can attest that
> it had this problem. With distressing regularity, upon beginning a
> new weld, the wire would melt off inside the tip and stick there.
> This would require me to stop, dismantle the gun and tip, and often
> replace the tip. Then do it again.
>
> In fact, that may be why, to this day, I detest the MIG process.
>
> Some time ago, I bought a spool gun. I don't remember the model
> number. But I believe I've seen you refer to it as the best spool gun
> out there. But both items have been gathering dust in my closet for
> some time.
>
> Now I'm embarking on an ambitious fence building project for which the
> machine would be the tool of choice provided I can count on it to work
> reliably.
>
> So, I have two questions for you (or anybody else):
>
> a) Is the design problem fixable with a new board? In other words, if
> I go to Miller can they give me any relief for the cost of a new
> board?
>
NO, Miller's repair was to design a new machine, the Millermatic 251.
> b) Does this problem raise its ugly little haid with a spoolmatic gun
> or just with the original gun the machine was equipped with?
>
The spoolgun is immune to this problem.
> I recently bought some heavy wall drill pipe. I hope to fab complete
> sections of 8' fence by welding the uprights to the stanchions while
> laid over on pipe stands. Then I'll pick 'em up with an all terrain
> forklift and drop the sections into place.
>
> So, is the 250X gonna do me any good? Or am I destined for an
> exercise in frustration if I try to use it for this project?
>
> Thanks and regards,
>
> Vernon
The 250X will work fine as long as you remember to clip the wire flush
with the tip every time you stop welding.
I have a Millermatic 300 (same vintage) at DIT now, and it has the same
problem but not quite as bad.
Just clip your wire flush every time.
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Posted by Vernon on April 9, 2007, 12:08 pm
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Ernie,
That's uplifting to hear. By the way, while noodling around the
archives I saw where a guy said he discombobulated the "hot start"
feature that, supposedly caused the problem. Is that a viable option?
Of course, I like your fix (clip the wire) better.
Thanks!
Vernon
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Posted by Ernie Leimkuhler on April 10, 2007, 2:43 am
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> >
> Ernie,
>
> That's uplifting to hear. By the way, while noodling around the
> archives I saw where a guy said he discombobulated the "hot start"
> feature that, supposedly caused the problem. Is that a viable option?
>
> Of course, I like your fix (clip the wire) better.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Vernon
I wouldn't know how and all the repair guys I know have never been able
to figure it out.
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>
> Sometime ago, I saw an old discussion on this problem, which you
> attributed to a design defect in the electronic innards of the
> Millermatic 250X.
>
> I have one of these machines that I bought new. And I can attest that
> it had this problem. With distressing regularity, upon beginning a
> new weld, the wire would melt off inside the tip and stick there.
> This would require me to stop, dismantle the gun and tip, and often
> replace the tip. Then do it again.
>
> In fact, that may be why, to this day, I detest the MIG process.
>
> Some time ago, I bought a spool gun. I don't remember the model
> number. But I believe I've seen you refer to it as the best spool gun
> out there. But both items have been gathering dust in my closet for
> some time.
>
> Now I'm embarking on an ambitious fence building project for which the
> machine would be the tool of choice provided I can count on it to work
> reliably.
>
> So, I have two questions for you (or anybody else):
>
> a) Is the design problem fixable with a new board? In other words, if
> I go to Miller can they give me any relief for the cost of a new
> board?
>