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Posted by SteveB on March 26, 2008, 1:43 pm
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>>> Care to guess what a new one costs?
$350
At this time, I'm ready to paint it and put it back together, and make some
money with it. The most important question I always ask when my welder is
down is, "When will it be ready?"
YMMV. And probably does.
Steve
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Posted by Private on March 26, 2008, 8:05 pm
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>
>>>> Care to guess what a new one costs?
>
> $350
>
> At this time, I'm ready to paint it and put it back together, and make
> some money with it. The most important question I always ask when my
> welder is down is, "When will it be ready?"
>
> YMMV. And probably does.
>
> Steve
I have not priced a new rad, but am not surprised at $350. I do suggest
that you shop around a bit as these are not a really uncommon rad and
suspect that you can save some money by looking and buying carefully. If
you are lucky someone here may have a good source to recommend. A previous
poster's suggestion that you do the flushing work with the old rad may be
good advice if you decide to do an aggressive flush.
$350. may seem like a lot of money compared to the price you paid for the
welder but the seller may have known or suspected of the problem and could
be part of the reason they were willing to sell cheap. Most bargains come
with some baggage, and even after this repair (and several more possibles)
you still have an excellent machine at a bargain price. A (correct) new rad
will increase the value of the machine and should mean you will not have
this problem for some time, keep thinking of this project as a half life
refit. Comparing the cost relatively, the new rad can be paid for with less
than 1 days welding profit, is only 10% of the market value of the machine,
and is less than 100 hrs of fuel and oil.
IMHO this type of repair is why it is best to use equipment that you have
used and maintained regularly yourself, rather than buy and sell often
looking to upgrade to a better machine.
Good luck, YMMV
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Posted by Private on March 26, 2008, 1:39 am
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> Poink! The sound of getting thumped on the forehead.
>
> Old radiator is terminal. The guy said every time he'd patch a hole, a
> new one would pop out. I was thinking that the rust
???? how does a brass and copper rad rust ???? (rust is iron oxide)
> I could see through the ports was quite extensive.
????? what ports ?????
If there was rust in the rad it could only have come from the block and
would seem to indicate that it was filled with probably very old and under
strength coolant which did not properly protect from corrosion. Do not be
surprised if you have water pump problems. Impeller corrosion is not common
but is possible with poor coolant, and old coolant often accompanies failed
water pump seals. Severe corrosion in the block will probably require an
aggressive flushing agent to remove rust and scale. There are several
different pumps used on these engines, The main difference is the dia. of
the shaft which can cause real problems as the pulley is a press fit.
Rebuild kits are available but are expensive. If you buy a rebuilt pump, I
would suggest you keep your old core.
If the corrosion was not due to iron rusting, then you may have a stray
electrical problem causing electrolosis. IIRC it is much more common with
aluminum radiators and is often caused by poor grounds or starter wiring but
YMMV. I have never heard of it being a problem with copper rads in welders
but YMMV.
> Care to guess what a new one costs?
Did your rad guy not give you a quote for both a new recore, and a new rad?
Just my .02
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Posted by Maxwell on March 26, 2008, 7:35 pm
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> Poink! The sound of getting thumped on the forehead.
>
> Old radiator is terminal. The guy said every time he'd patch a hole, a
> new one would pop out. I was thinking that the rust I could see through
> the ports was quite extensive.
>
> Care to guess what a new one costs?
>
I would certainly go for a second opinion Steve. In my experience, it's not
common for a radiator to be scrapped for leaks due to corrosion, or because
new leaks pop up every time you fix another. Not impossible, but certainly
not the usual.
I think it is much more common to loose them due to blockage, or damage
caused while trying to rod out the channels. Bad channels are soldered
closed on each end, and if you loose to many, it's time to recore or
replace. You usually arrive at this point after you have lost enough cooling
area that over heating is a problem. YMMV.
$350 does sound about right for a recore though, if that is truly what you
need. The last time I had one done it was $200, back in 91. I notice someone
on the web was offering new ones for $520 or $575, for the 200 and 250 amp
respectively.
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Posted by theChas. on March 27, 2008, 1:52 am
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> Care to guess what a new one costs?
>
. . . . . With the price of copper about $4.00 / lb., I think $350 would be
a steal for such a limited quantiy item.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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