|
Posted by Dev Null on July 2, 2007, 10:39 pm
Please log in for more thread options
Problem:
3/8 in. threaded rod through nut welded to outside of rectangular
tube frame.
Tube is ~2 in. x 3 in. with ~1/4 in. wall thickness.
Ends, inside, and top of frame are not accessible.
Nut is welded to short side.
Threaded rod used to have "foot" attached .
Rod has ~3 in. inside frame and 1 in. extending outside.
Rod used to turn.
Rod will not turn with vise-grips.
All material is steel.
Threads appear damaged. No corrosion.
ASCII ART (please use fixed-width font):
__________________________
_--| ^
_ -- ~ | |
|~ | 3 in.
| frame | |
| tube | |
| |_____V_____________________
| _-- __ ^
| _ -- ~ nut ---> / | 2 in.
| ~ __/ |
_______________________| | _____V______
rod ---> | |
|__|
Q1: How would you suggest to remove rod?
Q2: If it is decided to weld a big honkin' nut to the end of the rod
to facilitate application of absurdly high torque values, what method
of welding would you suggest?
Q3: What method of welding would minimize total heat into rod?
Then kew kindly for your assistance.
|
|
Posted by JR North on July 2, 2007, 11:20 pm
Please log in for more thread options
Before you totally cream the nut by trying to remove the seized rod....
cut the rod off flush. Drill it out through the nut to the minor dia. of
the rod threads. Run appropriate tap through the nut to finish. This
procedure requires a surgeon's touch, sharp, straight tooling, and, of
course, dead center and axial drill path. It CAN be done.
Good luck....
JR
Dweller in the cellar
Dev Null wrote:
> Problem:
> 3/8 in. threaded rod through nut welded to outside of rectangular
> tube frame.
> Tube is ~2 in. x 3 in. with ~1/4 in. wall thickness.
> Ends, inside, and top of frame are not accessible.
> Nut is welded to short side.
> Threaded rod used to have "foot" attached .
> Rod has ~3 in. inside frame and 1 in. extending outside.
> Rod used to turn.
> Rod will not turn with vise-grips.
> All material is steel.
> Threads appear damaged. No corrosion.
>
> ASCII ART (please use fixed-width font):
>
> __________________________
> _--| ^
> _ -- ~ | |
> |~ | 3 in.
> | frame | |
> | tube | |
> | |_____V_____________________
> | _-- __ ^
> | _ -- ~ nut ---> / | 2 in.
> | ~ __/ |
> _______________________| | _____V______
> rod ---> | |
> |__|
>
> Q1: How would you suggest to remove rod?
>
> Q2: If it is decided to weld a big honkin' nut to the end of the rod
> to facilitate application of absurdly high torque values, what method
> of welding would you suggest?
>
> Q3: What method of welding would minimize total heat into rod?
>
> Then kew kindly for your assistance.
--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."
|
|
Posted by Jim Sehr on July 3, 2007, 1:58 am
Please log in for more thread options JR is right you can drill to the root of the thread then pick it out. I had
a broken bolt and broken tap extraction business for 18 years and I made
tools just for that job. For that size I would take old 1/4 drill bit and
cut it off just at the base of the
flutes, then grind about a 45 degree angle on drill, that part of the drill
will still be hardend. And the bottom part of drill will not be heat
treated. Now take the sharp pointed part of drill and pick the core of the
threaded shaft away from the wall . Often you can grab the remaining thread
with a needle nose pliers and pull it straight out. If it breaks apart in
pieces then go back with the pointed drill pick and use a wire with a hook
bent on the end to pull out the pieces. Wear eye glasses.
The reason to use an old drill is hitting the soft end is less likely to
shatter. And the 45 degree angle pushes the core out to the center
so you can grab it. Keep tool sharp.
Jim
> Before you totally cream the nut by trying to remove the seized rod....
> cut the rod off flush. Drill it out through the nut to the minor dia. of
> the rod threads. Run appropriate tap through the nut to finish. This
> procedure requires a surgeon's touch, sharp, straight tooling, and, of
> course, dead center and axial drill path. It CAN be done.
> Good luck....
> JR
> Dweller in the cellar
>
>
|
|
Posted by on July 3, 2007, 11:43 am
Please log in for more thread options > Before you totally cream the nut by trying to remove the seized rod....
> cut the rod off flush. Drill it out through the nut to the minor dia. of
> the rod threads. Run appropriate tap through the nut to finish. This
> procedure requires a surgeon's touch, sharp, straight tooling, and, of
> course, dead center and axial drill path. It CAN be done.
> Good luck....
> JR
> Dweller in the cellar
>
>
>
If you can get visegrips on the rod on the inside of the frame tube,
you might do as JRN says except drill to slightly less than the minor
diameter and then try to turn the rod from the inside of the frame
tube.
Dan
|
|
Posted by Robin S. on July 2, 2007, 11:55 pm
Please log in for more thread options
>
> Then kew kindly for your assistance.
Which part of the assembly are you trying to save? Likely, something
won't survive if the rod won't turn.
Throw a grinder at it and move on.
Regards,
Robin
|
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
> 3/8 in. threaded rod through nut welded to outside of rectangular
> tube frame.
> Tube is ~2 in. x 3 in. with ~1/4 in. wall thickness.
> Ends, inside, and top of frame are not accessible.
> Nut is welded to short side.
> Threaded rod used to have "foot" attached .
> Rod has ~3 in. inside frame and 1 in. extending outside.
> Rod used to turn.
> Rod will not turn with vise-grips.
> All material is steel.
> Threads appear damaged. No corrosion.
>
> ASCII ART (please use fixed-width font):
>
> __________________________
> _--| ^
> _ -- ~ | |
> |~ | 3 in.
> | frame | |
> | tube | |
> | |_____V_____________________
> | _-- __ ^
> | _ -- ~ nut ---> / | 2 in.
> | ~ __/ |
> _______________________| | _____V______
> rod ---> | |
> |__|
>
> Q1: How would you suggest to remove rod?
>
> Q2: If it is decided to weld a big honkin' nut to the end of the rod
> to facilitate application of absurdly high torque values, what method
> of welding would you suggest?
>
> Q3: What method of welding would minimize total heat into rod?
>
> Then kew kindly for your assistance.