REQ: how to remove threaded rod

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REQ: how to remove threaded rod Dev Null 07-02-2007
Posted by Ernie Leimkuhler on July 3, 2007, 1:21 am
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> Problem:
> 3/8 in. threaded rod through nut welded to outside of rectangular
> tube frame.
> Tube is ~2 in. x 3 in. with ~1/4 in. wall thickness.
> Ends, inside, and top of frame are not accessible.
> Nut is welded to short side.
> Threaded rod used to have "foot" attached .
> Rod has ~3 in. inside frame and 1 in. extending outside.
> Rod used to turn.
> Rod will not turn with vise-grips.
> All material is steel.
> Threads appear damaged. No corrosion.
>
> ASCII ART (please use fixed-width font):
>
> __________________________
> _--| ^
> _ -- ~ | |
> |~ | 3 in.
> | frame | |
> | tube | |
> | |_____V_____________________
> | _-- __ ^
> | _ -- ~ nut ---> / | 2 in.
> | ~ __/ |
> _______________________| | _____V______
> rod ---> | |
> |__|
>
> Q1: How would you suggest to remove rod?
>

Weld a nut to the end of the rod.


> Q2: If it is decided to weld a big honkin' nut to the end of the rod
> to facilitate application of absurdly high torque values, what method
> of welding would you suggest?
>

MIG or Stick welding would both work fine.

> Q3: What method of welding would minimize total heat into rod?
>
> Then kew kindly for your assistance.

You WANT heat.
The best procedure I have used is a progressive one.
Start with a torch, propane at least, but preferably Oxy/Acet.
Warm the rod then shoot penetrating oil into the joint between the nut
and the rod.
A little more heat, then more oil.
Do this a few times before even trying to move the nut.
Don't try to turn the nut out in one go.
Start by working it back and forth to break it free, while adding more
oil to the joint.
Eventually it should work free enough to get it out.
I have used this technique on dozens of stuck bolts and engine studs.

Don't be stingy with the heat or the oil, but don't heat it above a dark
red.
Too hot and you will oxidize the threads too much.

Posted by jp2express on July 3, 2007, 9:51 am
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 First, nice job with that ASCII Art! I have had to do that before, and it
takes a while.

My solution:
Do you have a cutting torch or a grinder? If so, cut or grind the old nut
off of there. That will get rid of the rusty nut and the damaged threaded
rod. Then, go to Tractor Supply Co and get a new nut/rod to weld in its
place.

Good luck,
~Joe



Posted by Dev Null on July 5, 2007, 11:10 pm
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> First, nice job with that ASCII Art! I have had to do that
> before, and it takes a while.
>
> My solution:
> Do you have a cutting torch or a grinder? If so, cut or grind
> the old nut off of there. That will get rid of the rusty nut and
> the damaged threaded rod. Then, go to Tractor Supply Co and get
> a new nut/rod to weld in its place.
>
> Good luck,
> ~Joe
>
>
>

Thanks to everyone for your replies.

Every time I tried to weld (SMAW, 3/32 E6011) a nut onto the rod, the
rod sheared off at the weld. Probably just bad welding, but my excuse
is it was overhead.

If I didn't have to weld overhead I would definitely have cut off the
old nut and welded on a new one.

Posted by Don Young on July 5, 2007, 11:55 pm
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>
>> First, nice job with that ASCII Art! I have had to do that
>> before, and it takes a while.
>>
>> My solution:
>> Do you have a cutting torch or a grinder? If so, cut or grind
>> the old nut off of there. That will get rid of the rusty nut and
>> the damaged threaded rod. Then, go to Tractor Supply Co and get
>> a new nut/rod to weld in its place.
>>
>> Good luck,
>> ~Joe
>>
>>
>>
>
> Thanks to everyone for your replies.
>
> Every time I tried to weld (SMAW, 3/32 E6011) a nut onto the rod, the
> rod sheared off at the weld. Probably just bad welding, but my excuse
> is it was overhead.
>
> If I didn't have to weld overhead I would definitely have cut off the
> old nut and welded on a new one.
I missed the beginning of this thread but it sounds to me like an ideal
application for a nut splitter (or a cold chisel, hammer, and something
heavy for backup).

Don Young




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