Re: Well, Sally's running ........

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Re: Well, Sally's running ........ SteveB 03-21-2008
Posted by Maxwell on March 21, 2008, 9:26 am
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>>
>> Does the throttle linkage have a spring and vacuum chamber attached to
>> it?
>
> There's two arms that run forward, one, I believe to the governor, the
> other to a blue box which is mounted in the upper position. Both located
> in the fan shroud area.

Blue box?? Does it have a removable inspeciton cover? Doesn't sound like a
vaccum controlled model to me. I'm no sure when they changed.

>
> How much would you guess a carb is for these?

I really don't know, but you shouldn't need one. They are really simple.
It's just the kind of job you need to handle with great care. Especially
when removing, replacing and cleaning the orifices. You can usually check
the orifices by holding them up to a light. Make sure you can "sight"
through them.



Posted by SteveB on March 22, 2008, 2:01 am
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>
>>>
>>> Does the throttle linkage have a spring and vacuum chamber attached to
>>> it?
>>
>> There's two arms that run forward, one, I believe to the governor, the
>> other to a blue box which is mounted in the upper position. Both located
>> in the fan shroud area.
>
> Blue box?? Does it have a removable inspeciton cover? Doesn't sound like a
> vaccum controlled model to me. I'm no sure when they changed.
>
>>
>> How much would you guess a carb is for these?
>
> I really don't know, but you shouldn't need one. They are really simple.
> It's just the kind of job you need to handle with great care. Especially
> when removing, replacing and cleaning the orifices. You can usually check
> the orifices by holding them up to a light. Make sure you can "sight"
> through them.

Pulled it off today. It has two wires to it, and a sliding plunger. When
activated by electricity, it holds the idle at fast idle.

Steve



Posted by Grant Erwin on March 22, 2008, 12:58 am
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SteveB wrote:

>
>>
>>>>Does the throttle linkage have a spring and vacuum chamber attached to
>>>>it?
>>>
>>>There's two arms that run forward, one, I believe to the governor, the
>>>other to a blue box which is mounted in the upper position. Both located
>>>in the fan shroud area.
>>
>>Blue box?? Does it have a removable inspeciton cover? Doesn't sound like a
>>vaccum controlled model to me. I'm no sure when they changed.
>>
>>
>>>How much would you guess a carb is for these?
>>
>>I really don't know, but you shouldn't need one. They are really simple.
>>It's just the kind of job you need to handle with great care. Especially
>>when removing, replacing and cleaning the orifices. You can usually check
>>the orifices by holding them up to a light. Make sure you can "sight"
>>through them.
>
>
> Pulled it off today. It has two wires to it, and a sliding plunger. When
> activated by electricity, it holds the idle at fast idle.
>
> Steve
>
>

Check the resistance between those two wires. Should be something like
five ohms. Check for continuity between each wire and ground. Shouldn't
be any. Then apply 12 volts and see if the plunger actuates. If so,
there's nothing wrong with your weld idle solenoid.

Grant

Posted by SteveB on March 22, 2008, 11:34 am
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> Check the resistance between those two wires. Should be something like
> five ohms. Check for continuity between each wire and ground. Shouldn't
> be any. Then apply 12 volts and see if the plunger actuates. If so,
> there's nothing wrong with your weld idle solenoid.
>
> Grant

Did that, and it tested okay. Then I got the hole punched in the radiator
and everything stopped. I think it's in the circuit board. I'll take the
radiator to Vegas Wednesday and have it repaired, and after that, use the
machine without the auto idle feature, and just clean up and paint. After
that, I'll take it to Vegas, or find a local shop that can fix the Lincoln
electronics on it. Right now, I'm dead in the water, so I'm working on home
remodel stuff for a few days.

As an aside, I called local radiator shops, and no one in town does rod and
core jobs on radiators. None have a dip tank. They say it's cheaper just
to buy a new one. I don't know about this old machine, and finding a
radiator, so I'll try my guy first. If it can be fixed, he'll fix it. He
can take the tops off and splice in a new core section, and all sorts of
marvelous tricks. But the bottom pan has mounting bolts that have to stay
where they are to mount it back up.

Drat.

Steve



Posted by RoyJ on March 22, 2008, 11:29 am
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You need to move to a place with REAL shops. I have my choice of several
shops that can do a full radiator tear down, replace or plug cores as
required, resemble, clean, test, repaint. Last one I had done was $60 or
so a couple years back.


> As an aside, I called local radiator shops, and no one in town does rod and
> core jobs on radiators. None have a dip tank. They say it's cheaper just
> to buy a new one. I don't know about this old machine, and finding a
> radiator, so I'll try my guy first. If it can be fixed, he'll fix it. He
> can take the tops off and splice in a new core section, and all sorts of
> marvelous tricks. But the bottom pan has mounting bolts that have to stay
> where they are to mount it back up.
>
> Drat.
>
> Steve
>
>

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