|
Welding Forums - Welding of materials for manufacture & repair.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted by SteveB on March 22, 2008, 11:22 pm
Please log in for more thread options
> You need to move to a place with REAL shops. I have my choice of several
> shops that can do a full radiator tear down, replace or plug cores as
> required, resemble, clean, test, repaint. Last one I had done was $60 or
> so a couple years back.
My wife and I have 100 years between us living in Las Vegas. It is over a
million now and a zoo. We now live in a town of 1400 at the end of a dirt
road. We call it Green Acres after the TV show, because that is what it is
like around here. We go to the "big city" of St. George once in a while, or
to the next town to go to Ace or the market.
I'll gladly trade the inconvenience of not having access to some
conveniences for the peace and quiet I live in now. We go to Las Vegas at
least once a month for business, and if there's anything we "really" need,
it will wait a month.
When you move to a small town, you have to adjust your internal speedometer,
as life moves slower.
Steve
|
|
Posted by Gunner on March 22, 2008, 6:08 am
Please log in for more thread options
On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 22:01:19 -0800, "SteveB"
>
>>
>>>>
>>>> Does the throttle linkage have a spring and vacuum chamber attached to
>>>> it?
>>>
>>> There's two arms that run forward, one, I believe to the governor, the
>>> other to a blue box which is mounted in the upper position. Both located
>>> in the fan shroud area.
>>
>> Blue box?? Does it have a removable inspeciton cover? Doesn't sound like a
>> vaccum controlled model to me. I'm no sure when they changed.
>>
>>>
>>> How much would you guess a carb is for these?
>>
>> I really don't know, but you shouldn't need one. They are really simple.
>> It's just the kind of job you need to handle with great care. Especially
>> when removing, replacing and cleaning the orifices. You can usually check
>> the orifices by holding them up to a light. Make sure you can "sight"
>> through them.
>
>Pulled it off today. It has two wires to it, and a sliding plunger. When
>activated by electricity, it holds the idle at fast idle.
>
>Steve
>
Thats called a solenoid.
If the solenoid is being energized all the time, either the fast/slow
switch is bad, or the arc/load sensor is bad.
My Ranger 9 has a similar issue. It doesn't recognize that I'm
striking an arc, so wont speed up. I can do this manually with the
fast/slow switch on the front. So I know the solenoid is ok.
So either Ive a wiring issue, or the load sensor board is DOA...please
Crom..let it not be that....
Gunner
|
|
Posted by Bruce in Bangkok on March 21, 2008, 8:59 am
Please log in for more thread options On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 05:41:33 -0800, "SteveB"
>
>> On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 20:39:18 -0800, "SteveB"
>>
>>>
>>>>I got the SA 200 running today.
>>>
>>>Just couldn't stand it. SWMBO was late with dinner because of a home
>>>remodeling show on TV, so I went out and put the leads on and fired it up.
>>>Ran four 7018 rods, and it runs great. Used the plug for the Makita
>>>stringer brush to clean them up. Ran them at slightly different settings,
>>>and had one that just curled up and popped right off by itself. I love
>>>those.
>>>
>>>Running rods at night has an unusual aspect. The inside lower part of my
>>>NexGen lens is white, and gives quite a reflection and distraction.
>>>
>>>I'll get the engine hiccups solved, but the powerplant is okay. It's so
>>>nice when a plan comes together.>Higher or lower? I pulled it again this
afternoon and ran some pipe
>cleaners through again and blew some more air through, and it was better.
>There are still a couple of small brass orifices I could not get out. And
>one that takes a very big screwdriver that I cannot find, but will look for.
>I tend to think it's something else, because when you put it on automatic
>idle, it doesn't drop down when you cease welding. Even though it would
>probably die if it did attempt to idle at a lower speed. Like I said, I'll
>get it figured out or fix it. I'll pull it again today and repeat. Hell, I
>can pull it off in five minutes now and be looking at the float chamber.
>
>Steve
>>>
>>>Steve
>>>
>> If it only runs with the choke on you probably need to clean the carb
>> again and maybe reset the float level.
>>
>>
>> Bruce-in-Bangkok
>> (correct email address for reply)
>
>Higher or lower? I pulled it again this afternoon and ran some pipe
>cleaners through again and blew some more air through, and it was better.
>There are still a couple of small brass orifices I could not get out. And
>one that takes a very big screwdriver that I cannot find, but will look for.
>I tend to think it's something else, because when you put it on automatic
>idle, it doesn't drop down when you cease welding. Even though it would
>probably die if it did attempt to idle at a lower speed. Like I said, I'll
>get it figured out or fix it. I'll pull it again today and repeat. Hell, I
>can pull it off in five minutes now and be looking at the float chamber.
>
>Steve
If the thing only runs with the choke on then you aren't getting
enough gas through the carburetor. I'd first make sure that it was
clean. You probably have some jets clogged somewhere. The one that
takes the big screwdriver is probably the main jet. Get it out and be
sure that the holes from the jet into the throat of the carb is
clear. Carbonator Cleaner is your friend.
I've seen two types of welders. We had some old Lincolns with the
Perkins engine that always ran at the same speed. Then others have a
sort of a relay that speed the engine up when you start to weld and
idle back when you aren't welding.
If I didn't have any specs I'd set the float level so when you turn
the carb top bottom side up the floats are parallel with the cover.
Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct email address for reply)
|
|
Posted by SteveB on March 21, 2008, 11:17 am
Please log in for more thread options
> On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 05:41:33 -0800, "SteveB"
>
>>
>>> On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 20:39:18 -0800, "SteveB"
>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I got the SA 200 running today.
>>>>
>>>>Just couldn't stand it. SWMBO was late with dinner because of a home
>>>>remodeling show on TV, so I went out and put the leads on and fired it
>>>>up.
>>>>Ran four 7018 rods, and it runs great. Used the plug for the Makita
>>>>stringer brush to clean them up. Ran them at slightly different
>>>>settings,
>>>>and had one that just curled up and popped right off by itself. I love
>>>>those.
>>>>
>>>>Running rods at night has an unusual aspect. The inside lower part of
>>>>my
>>>>NexGen lens is white, and gives quite a reflection and distraction.
>>>>
>>>>I'll get the engine hiccups solved, but the powerplant is okay. It's so
>>>>nice when a plan comes together.>Higher or lower? I pulled it again
>>>>this afternoon and ran some pipe
>>cleaners through again and blew some more air through, and it was better.
>>There are still a couple of small brass orifices I could not get out. And
>>one that takes a very big screwdriver that I cannot find, but will look
>>for.
>>I tend to think it's something else, because when you put it on automatic
>>idle, it doesn't drop down when you cease welding. Even though it would
>>probably die if it did attempt to idle at a lower speed. Like I said,
>>I'll
>>get it figured out or fix it. I'll pull it again today and repeat. Hell,
>>I
>>can pull it off in five minutes now and be looking at the float chamber.
>>
>>Steve
>>>>
>>>>Steve
>>>>
>>> If it only runs with the choke on you probably need to clean the carb
>>> again and maybe reset the float level.
>>>
>>>
>>> Bruce-in-Bangkok
>>> (correct email address for reply)
>>
>>Higher or lower? I pulled it again this afternoon and ran some pipe
>>cleaners through again and blew some more air through, and it was better.
>>There are still a couple of small brass orifices I could not get out. And
>>one that takes a very big screwdriver that I cannot find, but will look
>>for.
>>I tend to think it's something else, because when you put it on automatic
>>idle, it doesn't drop down when you cease welding. Even though it would
>>probably die if it did attempt to idle at a lower speed. Like I said,
>>I'll
>>get it figured out or fix it. I'll pull it again today and repeat. Hell,
>>I
>>can pull it off in five minutes now and be looking at the float chamber.
>>
>>Steve
>
> If the thing only runs with the choke on then you aren't getting
> enough gas through the carburetor. I'd first make sure that it was
> clean. You probably have some jets clogged somewhere. The one that
> takes the big screwdriver is probably the main jet. Get it out and be
> sure that the holes from the jet into the throat of the carb is
> clear. Carbonator Cleaner is your friend.
>
> I've seen two types of welders. We had some old Lincolns with the
> Perkins engine that always ran at the same speed. Then others have a
> sort of a relay that speed the engine up when you start to weld and
> idle back when you aren't welding.
>
> If I didn't have any specs I'd set the float level so when you turn
> the carb top bottom side up the floats are parallel with the cover.
>
>
> Bruce-in-Bangkok
> (correct email address for reply)
They looked to be a little downward from that position when I originally
looked at it, so I bent them more up parallel. I'm going to find that big
screwdriver today and pull that main jet. I think that sounds like the most
logical so far. But I will get some carb cleaner and probe with pipe
cleaners and blow with air again. These things can be messed up with the
tiniest bit of crud, and this had a LOT.
Steve
|
|
Posted by RoyJ on March 21, 2008, 9:51 am
Please log in for more thread options As others said, if you need to run with partial choke, you have crud in
the jets or a low float setting. These carbs are not too fussy on the
float setting. Just set it to level when the carb is installed.
If it really had a lot of crud, I'd just do a second cleaning. And that
means cleaning out the main jet with the huge screwriver slot. And as
others mentioned, MAKE SURE YOU DON'T BUGGER THE SLOT!!! That often
means setting the carb down on the open jaws of the vice (protected with
a cloth), have your buddy hold it in place (don't even think about
closing the vice on that pot metal!), and getting a good position to
loosen the offending brass jet. You only get one try, do it right.
>
> They looked to be a little downward from that position when I originally
> looked at it, so I bent them more up parallel. I'm going to find that big
> screwdriver today and pull that main jet. I think that sounds like the most
> logical so far. But I will get some carb cleaner and probe with pipe
> cleaners and blow with air again. These things can be messed up with the
> tiniest bit of crud, and this had a LOT.
>
> Steve
>
>
|
|
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
> shops that can do a full radiator tear down, replace or plug cores as
> required, resemble, clean, test, repaint. Last one I had done was $60 or
> so a couple years back.