SA 200 welder spec question

> http://www.weldtron.com/products/idlers/Idler%20controls.htm

> wrote:
>

>>
>>I have kicked up the rpms to the point where the governor starts to
>>applying
>>backpressure on the linkage, attached a temporary wire at that point, and
>>welded with it. It welded with both 1/8 and 3/32 7018 rods just fine.
>>The
>>current jump switch and fine tune rheostat seem to work fine, too.

>
> http://www.weldtron.com/products/idlers/Idler%20controls.htm
>

>

>> wrote:
>>

>>>
>>>I have kicked up the rpms to the point where the governor starts to
>>>applying
>>>backpressure on the linkage, attached a temporary wire at that point, and
>>>welded with it. It welded with both 1/8 and 3/32 7018 rods just fine.
>>>The
>>>current jump switch and fine tune rheostat seem to work fine, too.

>>
>> http://www.weldtron.com/products/idlers/Idler%20controls.htm
>>

>
> Thanks, Gunner. I called the Lincoln repair shop here today, and the
> tekkie said I could run it on manual at 1550 rpm, which I was a little
> amazed at. He said the circuit board didn't go out much, and they could
> diagnose and fix whatever was wrong with it for around $300 tops. He said
> the circuit boards were under $100, so it sounds like they aren't marking
> up those a lot.
>
> I'll get the old gal working, and some cash coming back in, and maybe I'll
> find someone locally up in Utah that can fix it, or may even figure it out
> myself. In the meantime, a manual setup on a tach will do the deal. I
> just didn't want to hurt it.
>

>I am just about ready to start welding with my refurbed SA 200. Notice I
>say refurbed, and not restored. There is something wrong with the sensor
>that kicks in the throttle when an arc is struck, and the regular idle/high
>idle switch seems inoperable. Neither work. I suspect a printed circuit
>board and the high/low switch. Solenoid seems to work, as does governor.
>
> I have kicked up the rpms to the point where the governor starts to
> applying backpressure on the linkage, attached a temporary wire at that
> point, and welded with it. It welded with both 1/8 and 3/32 7018 rods
> just fine. The current jump switch and fine tune rheostat seem to work
> fine, too.
>
> I removed the commentator cap, and the grooves between each contact on the
> commentator appear to be slightly less than 1/8" deep. I took a dentist
> pick and carefully cleaned each. The brushes are a full 3/4" thick, so
> have a lot of life in them. Either not used much, or changed and not a
> lot of hours on them. Springs and guides looked fine.
>
> Hauling this to the Lincoln service center involves a 400 round trip, and
> if what I think is wrong with it is the problem, probably a $500 repair
> bill.
>
> I talked to a Lincoln tekkie, and he said the high idle was 2300 rpm. I
> was wondering if I rigged up a throttle lever and just ran the throttle
> manually up to operational rpm range if that would be okay, and I could
> just leave the electronics dead where they are. Maybe just cut the wires.
> Does anyone know offhand what the operational load rpm of the motor is?
> Do you think that if I ran it at that rpm, then sparked an arc that the
> engine would die down enough rpms to make the welding current less?
>
> I'm going to call the service center there tomorrow, and in the past they
> have been very helpful. However, I'd like to know if anyone here has some
> info they have gleaned from firsthand use, or perhaps have a manual for
> it. I downloaded the manual for the SA 200 from Lincoln, but it is thin in
> some areas as they used some different combinations of motors and
> generators. Info would be appreciated, and if someone has a SA 200
> operator's manual that covers the Continental motor that would show all
> the inner parts and how to rebuild it, I'd be in the market.
>
> It would sure be nice to have this running exactly like it's supposed to,
> but if I can make a $10 throttle linkage (or less) vs. a $500 bill to put
> it back entirely right, I'd have to weigh that. My main concern is that
> it will not hurt the engine or generator to run it with a manual control.
> It would be easy to make a lever with a spring release. I also want to
> disassemble the governor and clean and inspect and grease it to make sure
> it's functioning properly, hence I'd like to have a book.
>
> The project is coming along. I got some red paint on it in various places
> and it looks cool. Now to get it working and make a few bucks to finish
> the aesthetic things like fenders and lights. And a 6" vise for the work
> bench. Maybe a new Smith propane torch head, too. A couple of good tires,
> and paint the rims.
>
> Will post a couple of pix after I get home Tuesday of the progress.
>
> Thanks, as always.
>
> Steve
>