Set-up to weld around a cylinder

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Subject Author Date
Set-up to weld around a cylinder El Cazador 12-06-2007
Posted by El Cazador on December 6, 2007, 9:44 am
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I have a small, light load-bearing shaft about 5' long and about 1"
dia. that I have to weld around the circumference in two locations.
It's being lengthened 3". Can anyone offer a suggestion as to how I
can rig a set-up so that it will rotate in a stationery position so
that I can lay down a continuous bead? I'm just a hobby welder, mig,
and don't have a lot at my disposal to create something that would
fill the bill, but for appearance and strength I'd like to be able to
create a continuous weld.
Oh, also, the thickness of the wall, I'm guessing since I haven't cut
it yet, is probably about .125. Should I be concerned about producing
a result that remains straight for something of this size, and if so
how to ensure it stays good & straight? Thanks, y'all.
Vic
Redlands, CA

Posted by on December 6, 2007, 10:05 am
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> I have a small, light load-bearing shaft about 5' long and about 1"
> dia. that I have to weld around the circumference in two locations.
> It's being lengthened 3". Can anyone offer a suggestion as to how I
> can rig a set-up so that it will rotate in a stationery position so
> that I can lay down a continuous bead? I'm just a hobby welder, mig,
> and don't have a lot at my disposal to create something that would
> fill the bill, but for appearance and strength I'd like to be able to
> create a continuous weld.
> Oh, also, the thickness of the wall, I'm guessing since I haven't cut
> it yet, is probably about .125. Should I be concerned about producing
> a result that remains straight for something of this size, and if so
> how to ensure it stays good & straight? Thanks, y'all.
> Vic
> Redlands, CA


If it does not have to be light, I would look for some scrap tubing
that would slip inside to keep it straight.

As far as rotating the part, I would look at the local Goodwill Stores
for a barbeque rotisserie motor. To adjust the speed think about
wrapping a cord around the part and then using the motor to pull the
cord. With something to increase the size of the motor shaft, you
could get the part to turn faster.


Dan

Posted by RoyJ on December 6, 2007, 11:32 am
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Use a sleeve inside the tube to keep it concentric and to provide a
backer plate for the weld. You can 'v' out the weld joint to allow full
depth weld in one pass (as long as it in the .120" wall catagory) If I
don't have a suitable scrap piece laying around, I take some of the same
stock, slit it lengthwise, shove it in and let it expand to fit. Also,
make sure that any weld flash inside the tube is removed to get a tight
fit with the sleeve.

Set it up in a 'V' block setup, this can be some 2x4 blocks with notches
for a one off run. Have your able assistant wear a helmet, watch the
arc, and slowly rotate the shaft to keep the weld puddle about 30
degrees from the top surface. This also allows the ground cable to be
solidly attached to the tube but not get in the way of rotation.

The weld process WILL warp the tube, it always happens. Make your
extension as close to one end as possible. Plan on doing a straightening
operation in a small shop press if it is critical.

El Cazador wrote:
> I have a small, light load-bearing shaft about 5' long and about 1"
> dia. that I have to weld around the circumference in two locations.
> It's being lengthened 3". Can anyone offer a suggestion as to how I
> can rig a set-up so that it will rotate in a stationery position so
> that I can lay down a continuous bead? I'm just a hobby welder, mig,
> and don't have a lot at my disposal to create something that would
> fill the bill, but for appearance and strength I'd like to be able to
> create a continuous weld.
> Oh, also, the thickness of the wall, I'm guessing since I haven't cut
> it yet, is probably about .125. Should I be concerned about producing
> a result that remains straight for something of this size, and if so
> how to ensure it stays good & straight? Thanks, y'all.
> Vic
> Redlands, CA

Posted by Grant Erwin on December 6, 2007, 11:45 am
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El Cazador wrote:

> I have a small, light load-bearing shaft about 5' long and about 1"
> dia. that I have to weld around the circumference in two locations.
> It's being lengthened 3". Can anyone offer a suggestion as to how I
> can rig a set-up so that it will rotate in a stationery position so
> that I can lay down a continuous bead? I'm just a hobby welder, mig,
> and don't have a lot at my disposal to create something that would
> fill the bill, but for appearance and strength I'd like to be able to
> create a continuous weld.
> Oh, also, the thickness of the wall, I'm guessing since I haven't cut
> it yet, is probably about .125. Should I be concerned about producing
> a result that remains straight for something of this size, and if so
> how to ensure it stays good & straight? Thanks, y'all.
> Vic
> Redlands, CA

In the pipe shop at a small shipyard I used to watch the pipe welders
welding stuff like this. They had 4 rigid casters set up in pairs each
sort of forming a V, so that the piece could roll smoothly, then they
wound rope around it which went to a pedal. They would fit the pieces
together and tack them solidly, then put the part in the jig and weld
smoothly all the way around it. They didn't usually have problems with
warping.

If you clamp your pieces to the inside of a piece of angle iron, with
the ends separated about 1/16", and then tack in two places, and then
remove the part and tack on the other side and then hammer the part
straight, you can probably weld it up without a jig. Unless you are
pretty good you won't make a perfect looking bead, so plan on sanding
it afterwards just to get the worst of the lumps off. As others have
mentioned, you can straighten the shaft afterwards in a press if you
need to.

GWE

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Posted by El Cazador on December 6, 2007, 2:56 pm
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Thanks for the pointers. This will really help. Execution is up to
me.

Frightening.

Vic
Redlands, CA

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