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Posted by Steve B on March 20, 2007, 6:45 pm
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I'd like to buy a good set of taps and dies and a drill index from 1/8" to
1/2".
I see drill sets all the time (with carrying case) that are about $9.99 for
a thousand or so drills. They can't be very good. Same thing about taps.
Northern Tools? McMaster Carr? Or do they have various levels of quality?
Good brand name suggestions.
I figure this is going to cost a bit, but I'm tired of buying bits, and I
haven't learned to use my new Drill Doctor 750 yet. I must have a hundred
dull bits, and you can buy them at yard sales for a dime if you want to
sharpen them, although many times, they are already sharp.
Steve
PS: Tried the Cc thing on the second newsgroup, but it wouldn't take it.
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Posted by Tom Gardner on March 20, 2007, 8:19 pm
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> I'd like to buy a good set of taps and dies and a drill index from 1/8" to
> 1/2".
<snip>
Nachi, Greenfield, Cleveland.
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Posted by F. George McDuffee on March 22, 2007, 2:08 am
Please log in for more thread options On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 00:19:56 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
>> I'd like to buy a good set of taps and dies and a drill index from 1/8" to
>> 1/2".
><snip>
>Nachi, Greenfield, Cleveland.
==================
If you do this you will wind up with a large number of taps and
drills that you will never use.
As an alternative think about the threads you use for the
projects you work on and purchase only these taps and drills.
I suggest using screw machine length drills as the jobber length
drills will require you to run the drill head up and down to
change between the spotting drill, the tap drill, the body drill,
and the tap thus losing position.
Basically you will need a spotting drill [not center drill] to
start & locate the hole. Again get one about the same length as
your taps and screw machine length drills for the sizes you use.
One of these should cover a range of tap sizes.
A tap drill for 75% depth of thread [in many cases this will not
be a fractional size, but a number or letter drill]
A body drill both for providing clearance for the screw in the
mating part and to drill a slight counter bore so act as a guide
or lead in, and to make sure any burr that you kick up when
tapping or when you pull the thread when tightening is below the
surface.
I find that while the cobalt drills are harder and would last
longer in a production environment, they are also more brittle
and prone to chip/break in the home shop environment. They also
cost more and are harder to sharpen. Black oxide and bright
finish HSS should be adequate. If you use the spotting drill the
drills with the 135 degree split point are the ones to get.
These provide less end thrust [force required to drill] and also
have less tendency to walk.
Several taps for each thread.
I suggest a taper gun tap for through holes as these are the
easiest to start and the chips clear the tap very well. Be sure
to brush the chips off the tap that extends through the part
before you back the tap out as these may jam or damage the
thread. [buy two, their cheap]
For blind holes I suggest starting with a taper tap as this is
easiest to start, and then switching to a plug or bottoming tap
depending how close to the bottom of the hole you need the
threads. FWIW- I find that drywall screws make good tools to
extract the chips.
Another trick for blind holes is to use a stick type tap lube and
fill the hole. Then as the tap goes into the hole, the tap lube
squirts back out and takes the chips with it as well as providing
lubrication. In a pinch bar soap or lard/crisco will also work.
If you have a thick part, try not to tap more than about 1-1/2 to
2 diameters deep. That is a 1/4 tap should not go over 3/8 to a
1/2 inch deep. The threads that the tap generate and the tap
threads are not a perfect match and excessively long engagement
is likely to jam or break the tap. This is where the body drill
comes in. Simply body drill the hole deep enough so that you
only tap 1-1/2 to 2 diameters. You can drill from either side
but maximum assembly strength will be obtained with the longest
length screw and the maximum stretch. This is particularly
important for the smaller sizes [#10 and down]
I find that the 20 round plastic ammo boxes that re loaders use
make good containers to keep the taps and drills together but
protected. Most HF stores have these in a verity of sizes, or
sporting goods store that sells reloading supplies should have
these in stock.
A black sharpie pin is also handy for marking the required depths
on the taps and drills.
Many tapping/drilling problems in the home shop can be traced to
a worn out drill chuck. If your chuck is not in good shape, you
can get a good china import for c.20$US with the mounting shank
from wholesale tool, enco, HF and a bunch more. Note that for
tapping a key operated chuck is better then the albrecht style.
Some good liquid tap lube and possibly stick for blind holes is
also a requirement. (WD40 spray won't cut it and will make a
mess.)
Good luck and let the group know how you make out. If you have
questions or problems locating this stuff, post to the ng.
Unka' George [George McDuffee]
------------------------------
Watch out w'en you'er gittin all you want.
Fattenin' hogs ain't in luck.
Joel Chandler Harris (1848-1908), U.S. journalist.
Uncle Remus: His Songs and His Sayings,
"Plantation Proverbs" (1880).
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Posted by Ignoramus22126 on March 20, 2007, 8:36 pm
Please log in for more thread options Let me know if you want to sell your dull drill bits Steve. That Drill
Doctor that you have is a great machine!!1 All McMaster drills are
very good, but very pricey for occasional use. I bought some taps from
them also, those are very good quality (tin coated).
i
> I'd like to buy a good set of taps and dies and a drill index from 1/8" to
> 1/2".
>
> I see drill sets all the time (with carrying case) that are about $9.99 for
> a thousand or so drills. They can't be very good. Same thing about taps.
>
> Northern Tools? McMaster Carr? Or do they have various levels of quality?
> Good brand name suggestions.
>
> I figure this is going to cost a bit, but I'm tired of buying bits, and I
> haven't learned to use my new Drill Doctor 750 yet. I must have a hundred
> dull bits, and you can buy them at yard sales for a dime if you want to
> sharpen them, although many times, they are already sharp.
>
> Steve
>
> PS: Tried the Cc thing on the second newsgroup, but it wouldn't take it.
>
>
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Posted by 42etus on March 20, 2007, 10:53 pm
Please log in for more thread options I got a Drill Doctor about a year ago. Brought it home and couldn't get it
to sharpen a drill bit to save my sole. Wrote it off as a bad investment,
put it away and forgot about it.
About a week ago, I needed a 1/2" bit and all that I had were dull. I
dragged out the Drill Dr., re-read the instructions and tried to sharpen one
of the dull bits. To my surprise, it came out very sharp!. Don't know what I
was doing wrong before, but it works great now. Don't give up on yours, if
you've got a bunch of dull bits. They do work.
> I'd like to buy a good set of taps and dies and a drill index from 1/8" to
> 1/2".
>
> I see drill sets all the time (with carrying case) that are about $9.99
> for a thousand or so drills. They can't be very good. Same thing about
> taps.
>
> Northern Tools? McMaster Carr? Or do they have various levels of
> quality? Good brand name suggestions.
>
> I figure this is going to cost a bit, but I'm tired of buying bits, and I
> haven't learned to use my new Drill Doctor 750 yet. I must have a hundred
> dull bits, and you can buy them at yard sales for a dime if you want to
> sharpen them, although many times, they are already sharp.
>
> Steve
>
> PS: Tried the Cc thing on the second newsgroup, but it wouldn't take it.
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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> 1/2".