Tungsten Discoloration

>> Here are some basic settings.
>>
>> The foot pedal should only be giving you a percentage of the dial
>> setting.
>> If the dial on the machine is set for 100 amps, then the foot pedal is
>> giving you 0-100 amps.
>>
>> The dial on the machine should be set to about 5-10% more amperage than
>> the minimum needed for your weld.
>>
>> Here are some guidelines for minimum amperages.
>>
>> These numbers are for Steel or Aluminum.
>> Start with 1 amp for each thousandth of an Inch of thickness (0.001").
>> So 1/8" steel or aluminum = 0.125" thick = 125 amps.
>> Simple and easy.
>>
>> Now 2 complications.
>> For inside fillet welds, increase amperage by 30%
>> For outside fillet welds, decrease amperage by 30%
>>
>> Now take those numbers and adjust them for these other materials
>>
>> For stainless steel, decrease amperage by 30%.
>> For copper, increase amperage by 100%.
>> For bronze, decrease amperage by 50%.
>>
>> DCEN or AC Lanthanted or Ceriated tungsten
>> High amperage AC Zirconiated tungsten
>>
>> Base Metal Tungsten Filler rod Amperage
>> 0.010" - 0.045" 0.040" 0.024" - 0.030" 5 - 20
>> 0.030" - 1/8" 1/16" 0.030" - 0.045" 15 - 90
>> 3/32" - 1/4" 3/32" 1/16" - 3/32" 50 -
>> 200
>> 3/16" - 3/8" 1/8" 3/32" - 1/8" 180 -
>> 275
>> 5/16" - 1/2" 5/32" 1/8" - 3/16" 220 -
>> 350
>>
>> The tungsten sizes do overlap, and you can fudge a little up or down,
>> but try not to use a tungsten
>> or filler rod THICKER than your BASE metal.
>> Also when dealing with really thin base metal and low amperages on
>> DCEN, you do want a sharp point since the diameter of the tip of the
>> point sets the minumum amperage needed to initiate the arc.
>> For 1/16" material and thicker you want a tiny flat on the tip, because
>> at these higher amperages a really sharp point can pop off into the
>> weld metal.
>>
>> Thoriated tungstens are about the same as Lanthanated, but can take
>> about 10% less heat.
>> If using Pure tungstens all tungstens are shifted up 2 rows.
>>
>> Lanthanated Tungstens run on DCEP for aluminum shift up 2 rows.
>>

>
>
> A basic selection of TIG Rod should include Steel, Stainless steel,
> aluminum, and bronze.
>
> Steel
> ER70S-2
> The basic TIG filler for steel.
> It comes copper plated to prevent rust, but keep it in a tube or bag
> anyway.
> Sizes:
> 0.045", 1/16", 3/32", 1/8"
>
> Stainless steel
> 308L is the standard filler for 304 SS which is the most common type.
> 309L is a better filler for joining any kind of stainless to steel.
> 316L is the best for marine work.
> Sizes:
> 0.045", 1/16", 3/32"
>
> Aluminum
> 4043 is the most common aluminum filler rod.
> It works well for most situations, but...
> 5356 is stronger, better corrosion resistance and better color match
> for polishing or anodizing.
> 4047 is my favorite for welding castings, but it is kind of hard to
> find.
> Sizes:
> 1/16", 3/32", 1/8"
>
> Bronze
> Silicon Bronze is excellent for joining other copper alloys such as
> copper, brass and most bronzes.
> It can also be used to TIG Braze Weld steel and stainless steel.
> TIG Braze Welding is very useful for stainless steel since it doesn't
> actually melt the base metal so there is no chromium oxides formed on
> the back face of the metal.
> Sizes
> Sizes:
> 0.045", 1/16", 3/32"
>
> An advanced selection would include:
> Some aerospace alloys like Inconel, Hastelloy, or Haynes alloys.
> They are my favorite alloys for joining odd things and are extremely
> strong.
> Pure Nickel is excellent for joining cast iron..
> Pure Copper is good for TIG welding copper where it will be seen.
> ER80S-B2 is the current top choice for TIG welding Chrome-Moly tube for
> planes, cars, motorcycles and bikes.
>
> As to a vendor.
> The only guys I know that even list TIG rod on the Web are:
>
> http://www.tigdepot.com
>
> Great outfit, they carry all things TIG.
>
> You can also mail order from Central Welding at :
>
> http://www.centralwelding.com
>
> Just call them and they will ship it to you.
>
>
> Here is an exercise to practice when not welding.
>
> Level 1
>
> Take a 3/8" steel washer.
> Place it on a piece of white paper.
> Take a nice sharp pencil.
> Place the tip of the pencil against the paper inside the washer.
> Now start swirling the pencil tip around the inside of the washer to
> draw a circle on the paper.
> Keep circling the inside of the washer, while nudging the washer across
> the paper.
> Try to end up with the washer traveling in a straight line across the
> paper.
> You should end up with a long swirl pattern across the page.
> Keep practicing until the swirl pattern is even and in a straight line.
>
> Level 2
>
> Same setup, with one change.
> Once again slide the washer across the page while swirling the pencil
> tip around the inside of the
> washer, but now DON"T touch the paper with the pencil tip.
> This means being able to hold the tip of the pencil within a 1/16" of
> the paper without touching it
> and without lifting out of the washer.
>
> Level 3
>
> Do Level 2 while standing next to the table without any part of your
> arm resting on the table.
>
> Level 4
>
> Move to a 1/4" washer.
>
>
> This exercise comes from a welding textbook from 1929, and it still
> works quite nicely to train your
> muscles for floating the torch.
>
>
> Normally I do not swirl the torch while TIG welding, but this still
> works as an exercise to build up muscle control.