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Posted by Ivan Vegvary on July 3, 2008, 8:10 pm
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Finally found that my oil leak (replaced the drain plug gasket and oil 5
times) problem is a hairline crack in the oil pan immediately adjacent to
the drain plug.
The plug threads into a thickened (re-enforced) area of the pan and
immediately at the edge of this thickened area starts a hairline crack that
radiates outward for about 3/8 th of an inch. It is possible that the
manufacturer welded this thickened area into the pan and the weld junction
is either failing are developing a stress crack.
I propose to clean the area with a wire wheel and then hit it with the wire
feed welder. Ground strap will be within a few inches, however I will
disconnect the battery just in case. Wife will stand by with a huge fire
extinguisher. Car is up on a hoist.
Removing the pan is the other alternative, but lots of exhaust pipe and
cross bracing in the way. Probably about 2 hours work.
All comments, suggestions, warnings appreciated.
Ivan Vegvary
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Posted by Grant Erwin on July 3, 2008, 8:12 pm
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Ivan Vegvary wrote:
> Finally found that my oil leak (replaced the drain plug gasket and oil 5
> times) problem is a hairline crack in the oil pan immediately adjacent to
> the drain plug.
> The plug threads into a thickened (re-enforced) area of the pan and
> immediately at the edge of this thickened area starts a hairline crack that
> radiates outward for about 3/8 th of an inch. It is possible that the
> manufacturer welded this thickened area into the pan and the weld junction
> is either failing are developing a stress crack.
>
> I propose to clean the area with a wire wheel and then hit it with the wire
> feed welder. Ground strap will be within a few inches, however I will
> disconnect the battery just in case. Wife will stand by with a huge fire
> extinguisher. Car is up on a hoist.
>
> Removing the pan is the other alternative, but lots of exhaust pipe and
> cross bracing in the way. Probably about 2 hours work.
>
> All comments, suggestions, warnings appreciated.
>
> Ivan Vegvary
>
>
My suggestion is simple. Go to the dealer, buy new oil pan & gasket, and
GET BUSY.
Chances are if you weld it, you'll munge the threads and the plug won't
seal. That's my best guess, anyway.
Grant
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Posted by Tim Wescott on July 4, 2008, 2:45 pm
Please log in for more thread options Grant Erwin wrote:
> Ivan Vegvary wrote:
>
>> Finally found that my oil leak (replaced the drain plug gasket and oil
>> 5 times) problem is a hairline crack in the oil pan immediately
>> adjacent to the drain plug.
>> The plug threads into a thickened (re-enforced) area of the pan and
>> immediately at the edge of this thickened area starts a hairline crack
>> that radiates outward for about 3/8 th of an inch. It is possible
>> that the manufacturer welded this thickened area into the pan and the
>> weld junction is either failing are developing a stress crack.
>>
>> I propose to clean the area with a wire wheel and then hit it with the
>> wire feed welder. Ground strap will be within a few inches, however I
>> will disconnect the battery just in case. Wife will stand by with a
>> huge fire extinguisher. Car is up on a hoist.
>>
>> Removing the pan is the other alternative, but lots of exhaust pipe
>> and cross bracing in the way. Probably about 2 hours work.
>>
>> All comments, suggestions, warnings appreciated.
>>
>> Ivan Vegvary
>>
>
>
> My suggestion is simple. Go to the dealer, buy new oil pan & gasket, and
> GET BUSY.
>
> Chances are if you weld it, you'll munge the threads and the plug won't
> seal. That's my best guess, anyway.
>
> Grant
This would be my preferred method unless I were exceedingly cash poor at
that moment, or it were a vintage car with unobtainable parts.
2nd choice would be to drop the pan, dip it or have it dipped, clean the
hell out of it, then weld it up (and maybe fix the design flaw that led
to the stress crack in the first place).
3rd choice, after reading the responses here, would be to try the
bonding trick per Maxwell. Good epoxy and clean metal can make some
amazing bonds. But I'd always worry about the whole shebang dropping
off on a hot day on the interstate, leaving my fellow travelers amused
and me stranded.
--
Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com
Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" gives you just what it says.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html
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Posted by DanG on July 3, 2008, 8:25 pm
Please log in for more thread options Had a good friend who wanted to change the oil pump, but didn't
want the exercise of dropping the pan. He knew where the pump
was, cut a hole in the pan, removed and replaced pump and pickup,
welded the pan back together. I don't know what he did about
getting the pan gasket too hot.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net
> Finally found that my oil leak (replaced the drain plug gasket
> and oil 5 times) problem is a hairline crack in the oil pan
> immediately adjacent to the drain plug.
> The plug threads into a thickened (re-enforced) area of the pan
> and immediately at the edge of this thickened area starts a
> hairline crack that radiates outward for about 3/8 th of an
> inch. It is possible that the manufacturer welded this
> thickened area into the pan and the weld junction is either
> failing are developing a stress crack.
>
> I propose to clean the area with a wire wheel and then hit it
> with the wire feed welder. Ground strap will be within a few
> inches, however I will disconnect the battery just in case.
> Wife will stand by with a huge fire extinguisher. Car is up on
> a hoist.
>
> Removing the pan is the other alternative, but lots of exhaust
> pipe and cross bracing in the way. Probably about 2 hours work.
>
> All comments, suggestions, warnings appreciated.
>
> Ivan Vegvary
>
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Posted by Maxwell on July 3, 2008, 8:28 pm
Please log in for more thread options
> Finally found that my oil leak (replaced the drain plug gasket and oil 5
> times) problem is a hairline crack in the oil pan immediately adjacent to
> the drain plug.
> The plug threads into a thickened (re-enforced) area of the pan and
> immediately at the edge of this thickened area starts a hairline crack
> that radiates outward for about 3/8 th of an inch. It is possible that
> the manufacturer welded this thickened area into the pan and the weld
> junction is either failing are developing a stress crack.
>
> I propose to clean the area with a wire wheel and then hit it with the
> wire feed welder. Ground strap will be within a few inches, however I
> will disconnect the battery just in case. Wife will stand by with a huge
> fire extinguisher. Car is up on a hoist.
>
> Removing the pan is the other alternative, but lots of exhaust pipe and
> cross bracing in the way. Probably about 2 hours work.
>
> All comments, suggestions, warnings appreciated.
>
> Ivan Vegvary
>
I have in fact done this repair to a few cars over the years, and done so
two different ways.
My preferred method is to fabricate a doubler that includes a new drain
plug, and bond it over the leaking area leaving a wide margin everywhere
possible to support the bond. Yes, it has to be extremely clean, and grease
free. But it has always served me well.
The second is welding. But the only time I remember welding and oil pan "on"
the vehicle, after just a few seconds of welding, I got an extremely hard
POP from the combustion gasses on the inside. It bloated the metal pan, and
could have been very dangerous. I don't recommend it, and would never try it
again myself.
The third would be removal, and repair or replace as desired.
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> times) problem is a hairline crack in the oil pan immediately adjacent to
> the drain plug.
> The plug threads into a thickened (re-enforced) area of the pan and
> immediately at the edge of this thickened area starts a hairline crack that
> radiates outward for about 3/8 th of an inch. It is possible that the
> manufacturer welded this thickened area into the pan and the weld junction
> is either failing are developing a stress crack.
>
> I propose to clean the area with a wire wheel and then hit it with the wire
> feed welder. Ground strap will be within a few inches, however I will
> disconnect the battery just in case. Wife will stand by with a huge fire
> extinguisher. Car is up on a hoist.
>
> Removing the pan is the other alternative, but lots of exhaust pipe and
> cross bracing in the way. Probably about 2 hours work.
>
> All comments, suggestions, warnings appreciated.
>
> Ivan Vegvary
>
>