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Welding Forums - Welding of materials for manufacture & repair.
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Posted by RoyJ on October 17, 2007, 11:26 am
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Most of these trailers come with 1000 pound capacity axles, bearings,
wheels, hubs, and tires. 1000 pounds of wallboard is 18 sheets of 1/2"
rock. It stacks nicely, only 9" thick for low center of gravity,
distributes the load evenly, and you usually hand load it so it doesn't
get the forklift operator drop test. And that is a BIG project for the
average DIY'er. Net is I don't really worry too much about wall board.
But I do worry about the same trailer used to haul a piece of top heavy
machinery or a bigger garden tractor. Either of those will bend the
trailer up nicely.
SteveB wrote:
> Let me see if I understand this. You're going to take a light trailer and
> haul plywood and drywall?
>
> What's wrong with this picture? Nothing as long as you really watch your
> load weight.
>
> Whatever you do, do it right. Others safety depends on YOU.
>
> Steve
>
>
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Posted by SteveB on October 17, 2007, 7:45 pm
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>
> Generally, I only need to get a few sheets at a time. Just need
> something that will fit them, and that's where the trailer market kind
> of falls short- a light duty unit that will fit a large, but non-heavy
> item.
>
>
> Dave
Then one of those light trailers ought to do it, and I'd feel safe if you
were in oncoming traffic.
Steve
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Posted by on October 17, 2007, 3:48 pm
Please log in for more thread options > spamTHIS...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> > That's exactly the type of tidbit I was looking for.
>
> > Most of those folding trailers have an honest-to-goodness C-section
> > rail, I'd worry less if this had such.
>
> > Thanks-
>
> > Dave
>
> If the trailer was purchased from some sort of retailer then it's going
> to be an ordinary structural steel angle iron, whatever is cheapest on
> the day they ordered it. No guarantees on it not having hard spots but
> nothing to lose sleep over.
>
> The only issue is that you, in welding onto the frame, not weaken it to
> the point where it'll fail. Keep any welds away from the edges of the
> angle iron (say, two times the thickness of the flange) and holes should
> not be drilled too close to the edge, keep them a goodly distance away-
> maybe two hole diameters from edge of hole to edge of iron.
>
> Keep weld beads as small as will suffice, the thinner material is what
> dictates the size of the weld. Try to not stiffen the frame with what
> you add, otherwise it'll eventually break at the point where it refuses
> to flex. If you have to make vertical welds and feel uncomfortable
> running them uphill, stitch it from the bottom- welding down on a
> vertical can result in remarkably weak welds, it's honestly best to
> leave downhill welding to the jobs where it's specified.
>
> Don't be afraid to use the grinder before you weld, it doesn't take a
> lot of paint or mill scale to make a mess of your work.
>
> John
My only other mig-work (other than practice) was replacing metal
around my trucks windshield, all kinds of odd angles and contortions,
and some upside-down to get the lip under the roof edge. Not a great
job, but it didn't suck either.
A little uphill welding will be easy compared to that. I started with
gas welding, so uphill is what's natural.
Thanks all,
Dave
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Posted by jp2express on October 29, 2007, 11:23 am
Please log in for more thread options Dave,
You've already received a lot of good advice on here, but be cautious with
those little Harbor Freight trailers if you are going to put much weight on
them.
I used one to hold my first welding setup (see
http://www.joeswelding.biz/redtrailer.htm), but the thin channel iron used
to mount the trailer hitch to was too flimsy. Whenever I hit a pothole or
speed bump, the weight of my equipment rocking back and forth on top would
cause the channel iron to twist - allowing the trailer more flexibility than
I felt safe with.
Just be careful with those light duty trailers.
If you ever decide to get yourself a heavier trailer, I found that an
"assembled Harbor Freight trailer" sells pretty well on eBay, so you won't
be out anything.
~Joe
http://www.joeswelding.biz/
>
> I have one of those tractor-supply $300 no-floor 4x8 trailers, angle-
> iron frame rails, no railing or secondary structure except angle-iron
> cross-rails.
>
> I have decided to not drill the frame, attached the bed with bolts
> just next to the frame and used oversize washers.
>
> What I would like to do is add some hooks and/or eyes for tying things
> down, but thought I'd sample some opinions before breaking out the
> welding equip.
>
> The frame is welded (god, what horrible welds), so I'm not too
> worried, but what would weaken the frame the least, if at all-
> Brazing?
> O/A welding?
> The trusty MIG?
>
> I know with any joint, using any of the above methods, the joint is
> stronger than the base material, but I'm less sure about welding a
> fitting onto the frame somewhere.
>
> Thx-
>
>
> Dave
>
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Posted by on October 29, 2007, 1:06 pm
Please log in for more thread options > Dave,
>
> You've already received a lot of good advice on here, but be cautious with
> those little Harbor Freight trailers if you are going to put much weight on
> them.
>
> I used one to hold my first welding setup
(seehttp://www.joeswelding.biz/redtrailer.htm), but the thin channel iron used
> to mount the trailer hitch to was too flimsy. Whenever I hit a pothole or
> speed bump, the weight of my equipment rocking back and forth on top would
> cause the channel iron to twist - allowing the trailer more flexibility than
> I felt safe with.
>
> Just be careful with those light duty trailers.
>
> If you ever decide to get yourself a heavier trailer, I found that an
> "assembled Harbor Freight trailer" sells pretty well on eBay, so you won't
> be out anything.
>
> ~Joehttp://www.joeswelding.biz/
>
>
>
>
>
> > I have one of those tractor-supply $300 no-floor 4x8 trailers, angle-
> > iron frame rails, no railing or secondary structure except angle-iron
> > cross-rails.
>
> > I have decided to not drill the frame, attached the bed with bolts
> > just next to the frame and used oversize washers.
>
> > What I would like to do is add some hooks and/or eyes for tying things
> > down, but thought I'd sample some opinions before breaking out the
> > welding equip.
>
> > The frame is welded (god, what horrible welds), so I'm not too
> > worried, but what would weaken the frame the least, if at all-
> > Brazing?
> > O/A welding?
> > The trusty MIG?
>
> > I know with any joint, using any of the above methods, the joint is
> > stronger than the base material, but I'm less sure about welding a
> > fitting onto the frame somewhere.
>
> > Thx-
>
> > Dave
Yeah, I spent a fair bit of time at TSC loading one corner, then the
other, and observing the flex, before deciding I could live with it.
The heaviest thing the trailer will see is my 350lbs XR650L, and
rarely, a second bike if I ever find someone to ride with.
When I get wood or sheet rock, it will likely not be heavier than 'the
pig'.
Work/personal travel has kept me from fiddling with it, but I'll post
what it seems to be made of when I get a chance.
I will be adding some lighter-duty eyebolts to it, mounting them
through the vertical part of the cross pieces, near the edge, where
there is just about no stress on the piece.
Dave
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> haul plywood and drywall?
>
> What's wrong with this picture? Nothing as long as you really watch your
> load weight.
>
> Whatever you do, do it right. Others safety depends on YOU.
>
> Steve
>
>