What's the trick in seeing what you're welding?

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What's the trick in seeing what you're welding? ** Frank ** 07-25-2007
Posted by ** Frank ** on July 25, 2007, 10:33 am
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I'm using a Speedglas auto-dark helmet with 3/10 lens, using flux core feed
wire, no gas, 100 amps and less. The suggested shade is 10 but the arc is
too bright and my welds run off tangent. Warring sun glasses help. Would
going to shade 12 be too dark?



Posted by Grant Erwin on July 25, 2007, 11:08 am
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** Frank ** wrote:

> I'm using a Speedglas auto-dark helmet with 3/10 lens, using flux core feed
> wire, no gas, 100 amps and less. The suggested shade is 10 but the arc is
> too bright and my welds run off tangent. Warring sun glasses help. Would
> going to shade 12 be too dark?

Here are some tricks I use:

MIG welding, I often push instead of pull - the arc light illuminates the path
and helps a lot in seeing where I'm going.

Sometimes I put a piece of aluminum scrap parallel to the desired weld, offset
by about half an inch. It's easy to see it from my peripheral vision.

I also sometimes rig up one of those cheap halide shop lights to shine directly
on the weld area, those help too.

A no. 10 lens should be fine for that. Try a few other things and keep after it,
I suspect you'll have straight welds if you persist.

Grant Erwin

Posted by ** Frank ** on July 25, 2007, 11:51 am
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> ** Frank ** wrote:
>
>> I'm using a Speedglas auto-dark helmet with 3/10 lens, using flux core
>> feed wire, no gas, 100 amps and less. The suggested shade is 10 but the
>> arc is too bright and my welds run off tangent. Warring sun glasses help.
>> Would going to shade 12 be too dark?
>
> Here are some tricks I use:
>
> MIG welding, I often push instead of pull - the arc light illuminates the
> path and helps a lot in seeing where I'm going.
>
> Sometimes I put a piece of aluminum scrap parallel to the desired weld,
> offset by about half an inch. It's easy to see it from my peripheral
> vision.
>
> I also sometimes rig up one of those cheap halide shop lights to shine
> directly on the weld area, those help too.
>
> A no. 10 lens should be fine for that. Try a few other things and keep
> after it, I suspect you'll have straight welds if you persist.
>
> Grant Erwin

Thanks!



Posted by Leo Lichtman on July 25, 2007, 11:52 am
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Make sure your glasses and every filter surface is as clean as can be. A
little bit of stuff on these surfaces can scatter a lot of light, making it
hard to see the puddle.



Posted by RoyJ on July 25, 2007, 12:42 pm
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Shade 12 will be too dark, you can go to shade 11. but I'm wondering why
shade 10 is too bright, it would be what I'd expect. Leo mentioned
cleaning the lens, abosolutely the first thing to do. You might also
position a work light on the work so there is less change from no weld
to weld. You want to be able so see your weld path while you are welding.

** Frank ** wrote:

> I'm using a Speedglas auto-dark helmet with 3/10 lens, using flux core feed
> wire, no gas, 100 amps and less. The suggested shade is 10 but the arc is
> too bright and my welds run off tangent. Warring sun glasses help. Would
> going to shade 12 be too dark?
>
>

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