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Posted by Balders on April 15, 2008, 12:13 pm
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Hi guys
Wondered if someone might have some pointers for me on how to repair a
woodruff (are they called this in the US? Half-moon shaped disk) keyway on
a steel shaft.
Background:
Crankshaft is steel
Woodruff key is approx 5mm thick (3/8ths I think)
The alternator pulley bolt (on end of C/shaft) became loose and allowed the
pulley to chatter. Unfortunately this has allowed the key to chatter too &
has opened out the keyway slightly.
I took the pulley, preheated with a MAPP gas blowtorch, zapped it with the
MIG and allowed it to cool. I then spent a fair while with needle files
re-dressing the keyway. (Heavy pulley 110A 240V mig, C25 mix)
How might I be able to repair the crank? It will have to be done in situ.
Would hitting it with MAPP, MIG and careful use of a Dremmel suffice?
(I wondered about making a copper key to give me a non-stick surface to
weld up to.)
I really don't want to weld a key in permanently
I've used Quicksteel for the time being.
Thanks :)
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Posted by Grant Erwin on April 15, 2008, 1:26 pm
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Balders wrote:
> Hi guys
>
> Wondered if someone might have some pointers for me on how to repair a
> woodruff (are they called this in the US? Half-moon shaped disk) keyway on
> a steel shaft.
>
> Background:
> Crankshaft is steel
> Woodruff key is approx 5mm thick (3/8ths I think)
>
> The alternator pulley bolt (on end of C/shaft) became loose and allowed the
> pulley to chatter. Unfortunately this has allowed the key to chatter too &
> has opened out the keyway slightly.
>
> I took the pulley, preheated with a MAPP gas blowtorch, zapped it with the
> MIG and allowed it to cool. I then spent a fair while with needle files
> re-dressing the keyway. (Heavy pulley 110A 240V mig, C25 mix)
>
> How might I be able to repair the crank? It will have to be done in situ.
> Would hitting it with MAPP, MIG and careful use of a Dremmel suffice?
> (I wondered about making a copper key to give me a non-stick surface to
> weld up to.)
>
> I really don't want to weld a key in permanently
>
> I've used Quicksteel for the time being.
>
> Thanks :)
Mill a woodruff slot on the other side of the shaft?
GWE
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Posted by Balders on April 16, 2008, 4:36 am
Please log in for more thread options On Tue, 15 Apr 2008 17:26:44 GMT, Grant Erwin wrote:
> Mill a woodruff slot on the other side of the shaft?
Too easy to get wrong, I'd also have to get someone to machine a keyway
into the pulley :'(
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Posted by John Husvar on April 16, 2008, 8:00 am
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> On Tue, 15 Apr 2008 17:26:44 GMT, Grant Erwin wrote:
>
>
> > Mill a woodruff slot on the other side of the shaft?
>
> Too easy to get wrong, I'd also have to get someone to machine a keyway
> into the pulley :'(
Eh, beg pardon. Why? Wasn't it the shaft keyway that was enlarged? The
pulley won't care where it lines up with the key or am I missing
something?
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Posted by Balders on April 16, 2008, 10:15 am
Please log in for more thread options On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 08:00:32 -0400, John Husvar wrote:
>
>> On Tue, 15 Apr 2008 17:26:44 GMT, Grant Erwin wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Mill a woodruff slot on the other side of the shaft?
>>
>> Too easy to get wrong, I'd also have to get someone to machine a keyway
>> into the pulley :'(
>
> Eh, beg pardon. Why? Wasn't it the shaft keyway that was enlarged? The
> pulley won't care where it lines up with the key or am I missing
> something?
Ahhh, very sorry John. I didn't say there's the cambelt/ign sensor drive
pulley directly behind this one so no going 180° out
Both pulleys have a slot in them. There's only one woodruff key which spans
(just about) both pulleys. The key is approx 1/2" across its flat -
miniscule compaired to the pulleys.
It's the key slot in the crank that I need to be able to repair properly
now.
Instead of having parallel sides it's more like this (ASCII art time)
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It's also in situ, to strip and get machined wouldn't be worth the grief. A
2nd hand engine would be a better option after the "weld the bugger on"
option.
Thanks for the replies so far, much appreciated
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>
> Wondered if someone might have some pointers for me on how to repair a
> woodruff (are they called this in the US? Half-moon shaped disk) keyway on
> a steel shaft.
>
> Background:
> Crankshaft is steel
> Woodruff key is approx 5mm thick (3/8ths I think)
>
> The alternator pulley bolt (on end of C/shaft) became loose and allowed the
> pulley to chatter. Unfortunately this has allowed the key to chatter too &
> has opened out the keyway slightly.
>
> I took the pulley, preheated with a MAPP gas blowtorch, zapped it with the
> MIG and allowed it to cool. I then spent a fair while with needle files
> re-dressing the keyway. (Heavy pulley 110A 240V mig, C25 mix)
>
> How might I be able to repair the crank? It will have to be done in situ.
> Would hitting it with MAPP, MIG and careful use of a Dremmel suffice?
> (I wondered about making a copper key to give me a non-stick surface to
> weld up to.)
>
> I really don't want to weld a key in permanently
>
> I've used Quicksteel for the time being.
>
> Thanks :)