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Posted by Grant Erwin on August 1, 2007, 8:12 pm
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I'm working on my father-in-law's mini-backhoe bucket. It is old and has a lot
of issues. What I was working on today was the fact that the toothbar (high
carbon steel) was partly ripped loose at one end. I was able to pull it back in
using a big comealong, and I welded one end using 7018, but as soon as I even
started to loosen the comealong the weld broke like glass. I got some
high-tensile stainless maintenance rod, pulled it back in and welded back up,
and so far it's holding. The welding engineer from the company that made the
electrode said to lay the stringer beads in with no preheat whatever, as the
toothbar steel is clearly crack-prone and preheating it would make it worse.
One of the tooth shanks (also high carbon steel) has been missing its tooth for
long enough for the shank itself to have worn down to a nub. Normally I'd remove
this shank by using a flushing tip on an oxyacetylene torch, but after seeing
how crack-prone the high-carbon steel is (Ernie thinks it might be T1) I'm very
leery of using that much heat. I don't own an arc-gouging gun and it's too much
work to grind it out. How would you guys go about removing this shank nub?
Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington
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Posted by Martin H. Eastburn on August 1, 2007, 9:35 pm
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Grant - arc-gouging gun ? - Plasma Torch with gouging nose.
I suspect the steel might be higher than T1 but that is about 360 BHN
http://www.chapelsteel.com/ar400-flatbars.html
T1 is a good shot.
This metal has a unique combo cocktail of heavy metals.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Endowment Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/
Grant Erwin wrote:
> I'm working on my father-in-law's mini-backhoe bucket. It is old and has
> a lot of issues. What I was working on today was the fact that the
> toothbar (high carbon steel) was partly ripped loose at one end. I was
> able to pull it back in using a big comealong, and I welded one end
> using 7018, but as soon as I even started to loosen the comealong the
> weld broke like glass. I got some high-tensile stainless maintenance
> rod, pulled it back in and welded back up, and so far it's holding. The
> welding engineer from the company that made the electrode said to lay
> the stringer beads in with no preheat whatever, as the
> toothbar steel is clearly crack-prone and preheating it would make it
> worse.
>
> One of the tooth shanks (also high carbon steel) has been missing its
> tooth for long enough for the shank itself to have worn down to a nub.
> Normally I'd remove this shank by using a flushing tip on an
> oxyacetylene torch, but after seeing how crack-prone the high-carbon
> steel is (Ernie thinks it might be T1) I'm very leery of using that much
> heat. I don't own an arc-gouging gun and it's too much work to grind it
> out. How would you guys go about removing this shank nub?
>
> Grant Erwin
> Kirkland, Washington
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Posted by Jon Petrzelka on August 2, 2007, 12:56 am
Please log in for more thread options Grant Erwin wrote:
> I'm working on my father-in-law's mini-backhoe bucket. It is old and has
> a lot of issues. What I was working on today was the fact that the
> toothbar (high carbon steel) was partly ripped loose at one end. I was
> able to pull it back in using a big comealong, and I welded one end
> using 7018, but as soon as I even started to loosen the comealong the
> weld broke like glass. I got some high-tensile stainless maintenance
> rod, pulled it back in and welded back up, and so far it's holding. The
> welding engineer from the company that made the electrode said to lay
> the stringer beads in with no preheat whatever, as the
> toothbar steel is clearly crack-prone and preheating it would make it
> worse.
>
> One of the tooth shanks (also high carbon steel) has been missing its
> tooth for long enough for the shank itself to have worn down to a nub.
> Normally I'd remove this shank by using a flushing tip on an
> oxyacetylene torch, but after seeing how crack-prone the high-carbon
> steel is (Ernie thinks it might be T1) I'm very leery of using that much
> heat. I don't own an arc-gouging gun and it's too much work to grind it
> out. How would you guys go about removing this shank nub?
>
> Grant Erwin
> Kirkland, Washington
We mfg. and repair buckets, some very large, the bottom leading edge is
usually always AR plate along with the forward edges on the sides and
the wear strips on the bottom. The lugs on top weather quick change or
pin on are usually T1 and the rest is usually A36. We use all dual
sheild from 1/16 to 3/16 and it is not uncomon to be running 350 to over
500 amps, no verts or overhead here! Run it in hot. I can not remember
the alloy of wire but it is nothing special, I know its flux core and
not metal core, I'll look at work tomorrow, good luck
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> a lot of issues. What I was working on today was the fact that the
> toothbar (high carbon steel) was partly ripped loose at one end. I was
> able to pull it back in using a big comealong, and I welded one end
> using 7018, but as soon as I even started to loosen the comealong the
> weld broke like glass. I got some high-tensile stainless maintenance
> rod, pulled it back in and welded back up, and so far it's holding. The
> welding engineer from the company that made the electrode said to lay
> the stringer beads in with no preheat whatever, as the
> toothbar steel is clearly crack-prone and preheating it would make it
> worse.
>
> One of the tooth shanks (also high carbon steel) has been missing its
> tooth for long enough for the shank itself to have worn down to a nub.
> Normally I'd remove this shank by using a flushing tip on an
> oxyacetylene torch, but after seeing how crack-prone the high-carbon
> steel is (Ernie thinks it might be T1) I'm very leery of using that much
> heat. I don't own an arc-gouging gun and it's too much work to grind it
> out. How would you guys go about removing this shank nub?
>
> Grant Erwin
> Kirkland, Washington