use of an angle notcher/bender to make rectangular frame?

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use of an angle notcher/bender to make rectangular frame? Grant Erwin 04-05-2008
Posted by Grant Erwin on April 5, 2008, 5:24 pm
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If I have an angle notcher and bender, what is the exact procedure to make a
rectangular angle frame from a piece of angle stock? Can I make it with just one
weld? How do I account for the length of the stock going around the bend? Say I
want a 12x18" frame of 1x1x1/8" angle, what would I do exactly?

Thanks,

Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington

Posted by Maxwell on April 5, 2008, 6:35 pm
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> If I have an angle notcher and bender, what is the exact procedure to make
> a rectangular angle frame from a piece of angle stock? Can I make it with
> just one weld? How do I account for the length of the stock going around
> the bend? Say I want a 12x18" frame of 1x1x1/8" angle, what would I do
> exactly?
>

In short, do a test bend.

I would lay out a short piece of stock, carefully marking an inch on either
side of the notch. Bend it on the notch mark, and then measure the one inch
layout marks to each edge. I would recommend using a scribe for the best
possible accuracy on at least the test bend.




Posted by Jim Wilkins on April 5, 2008, 7:55 pm
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=2E..
> In short, do a test bend.
>
> I would lay out a short piece of stock, carefully marking an inch on eithe=
r
> side of the notch. Bend it on the notch mark, and then measure the one inc=
h
> layout marks to each edge. I would recommend using a scribe for the best
> possible accuracy on at least the test bend.

That's the best way, but you can try to estimate the bend allowance as
the difference between the length from the start of the bend to a
straight corner and the length of the curved arc down the center
(neutral axis) of the metal. Notice the bend allowance is LESS than
the straight length of two mitered pieces.

Another way is to make a saw cut into the second leg to thin the bend
line. This reduces the uncertainty of the bend allowance and makes it
easy to form a sharper outside corner, but the inside weld is harder
to clean up.

Jim Wilkins

Posted by RoyJ on April 5, 2008, 11:35 pm
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You will be fairly close if you figure that the inside edge of the angle
is the neutral axis. So if you want the outside to be 12" when using
1/8" stock, your notches should be 12" - 2x1/8" or 11-3/4" apart. That
will get you close, do some test bends to see how much you need to
adjust things.

You always have a problem with the bend working very well near the
flange, much bulging away from the flange where the bend is not well
supported. You really need to hit the bend with a press brake die to get
a crisp bend all the way across. That is overkill on 1x1x1/8" but don't
try 1/4" angle with free bending.

Grant Erwin wrote:
> If I have an angle notcher and bender, what is the exact procedure to
> make a rectangular angle frame from a piece of angle stock? Can I make
> it with just one weld? How do I account for the length of the stock
> going around the bend? Say I want a 12x18" frame of 1x1x1/8" angle, what
> would I do exactly?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Grant Erwin
> Kirkland, Washington

Posted by Shawn on April 6, 2008, 10:08 am
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> If I have an angle notcher and bender, what is the exact procedure to make
> a rectangular angle frame from a piece of angle stock? Can I make it with
> just one weld? How do I account for the length of the stock going around
> the bend? Say I want a 12x18" frame of 1x1x1/8" angle, what would I do
> exactly?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Grant Erwin
> Kirkland, Washington

Since the metal will stretch in the bend, not compress, work by the inside
dimensions only. You'll need to subtract 1/8" from one leg where the ends
meet to account for the thickness of the angle, this will also give you a
little wiggle room at the weld joint. Personally, I prefer to cope angle
iron at 90 degree angles .

Shawn



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